[Jerry1]

Hi Everyone

1st post but I've been lurking for a couple months. If I didn't run out of time today, I would have bought a 2dr 2013. I'm buying one to have some family fun with my wife & 7yr old daughter. We definitely want to hit some trails, etc... but 95% of the time, we will be on road. This is a toy, not a daily driver but safe and stable on road performance is a priority to keep my family safe.

I'm down to looking at a configured Sport S or a Rubicon. I live near Pittsburgh, which means not much rock crawling. Around here, it's dirt, mud, logs & creeks. I'm not planning on extreme anything with my Jeep. Just fun with an emphasis on family safety & not bangin up my rig too badly.

I'm reasonably sure that a Sport is capable enough for me but a have zero experience to rely on. Without rock crawling, is the $5k Rubi upgrade worth it?

And now for my Title question. When going to a 2.5" lift with 35's, are the heavy duty internal drivetrain/axle upgrades on the Rubicon a more reliable system for handling the extra stresses associated with heavier wheels & tires? I know that either may need shorter gears, sleeves, gussets, etc... But I'm talking internals. or other things that might be sturdier on the Rubicon.

I'm planning on personalizing what I buy and keeping it for a long, long time so reliability, longevity & durability are important considerations.

Thanks everyone and I look forward to joining the Wrangler nation soon!

Jerry

 

[jtphoto JK]

The structural strength of both the D30 and Rubicon D44 are the same. The D44 however does have heavier internals but that doesn't mean the D30 is weak. You will be fine with a sport on 35s.

 

[rfr002]

One good thing about the Rubicon is that if you option it with the 4.10's you don't have to regear for 35's (at least with the 3.6).

 

[Jerry1]

Yeah, 4:10's will have a better shot at least but it may not be enough. It's hilly here and while it's not Denver' it certainly isn't sea level either. I want the Rubi rock rails too but those plus re-gearing still doesn't come close to the money needed to upgrade to a Rubicon.

I have been known to regret not going with upper level vehicle packages in the past so that's probably worth mentioning. But I live with my decisions. That being said, if I won't get much benefit from owning a Rubicon, it might be silly to get one.

Good info so far. Keep it coming everyone. I will take all I can get!

 

[Abacabb]

I've had a Rubicon, Sahara and now a Sport.

Though I do sometimes miss having the lockers, I feel it makes you become a better driver not having them.

All in all, I don't regret getting a Sport this time around.

 

[jvandy50]

I have a sport, wish I had a rear locker(have an Aussie up front now), and also wish I had the rubi transfer case. If I could do it again, I'd go rubi or a stripped down sport version and take out a larger 'extra' loan to get the stuff I REALLY want...axles, lockers, shafts, and no need for gussets, sleeves, and welding labor


Vandy

 

[WranglerSportS]

Hi Everyone

1st post but I've been lurking for a couple months. If I didn't run out of time today, I would have bought a 2dr 2013. I'm buying one to have some family fun with my wife & 7yr old daughter. We definitely want to hit some trails, etc... but 95% of the time, we will be on road. This is a toy, not a daily driver but safe and stable on road performance is a priority to keep my family safe.

I'm down to looking at a configured Sport S or a Rubicon. I live near Pittsburgh, which means not much rock crawling. Around here, it's dirt, mud, logs & creeks. I'm not planning on extreme anything with my Jeep. Just fun with an emphasis on family safety & not bangin up my rig too badly.

I'm reasonably sure that a Sport is capable enough for me but a have zero experience to rely on. Without rock crawling, is the $5k Rubi upgrade worth it?

And now for my Title question. When going to a 2.5" lift with 35's, are the heavy duty internal drivetrain/axle upgrades on the Rubicon a more reliable system for handling the extra stresses associated with heavier wheels & tires? I know that either may need shorter gears, sleeves, gussets, etc... But I'm talking internals. or other things that might be sturdier on the Rubicon.

I'm planning on personalizing what I buy and keeping it for a long, long time so reliability, longevity & durability are important considerations.

Thanks everyone and I look forward to joining the Wrangler nation soon!

Jerry

Welcome to the asylum Jerry! I don't know if you have ever seen this from Autoblog but it is without a doubt what got me to buy a new wrangler and I had no qualms about purchasing a Wrangler Sport S.

http://www.autoblog.com/2012/02/17/2012-jeep-wrangler-sport-review/

 

[TCdawg]

Welcome Jerry!

I'll give you some conflicting advise just to keep you thinking.

1. Rubi rock rails can be found cheap. Tons for sale, usually go for $100 or so.
2. Hard to beat the rubi transfer case. The 4:1 low is really nice.

 

[SoCalJK2010]

Having the locker could get you out if a tight spot in the snow, might be one of those instances when you would regret not getting the rubi, that being said there are plenty of trees in Pennsylvania and a winch will accomplish the same thing. My advise is this the rubi is worth the money unless you get the fever and start ripping out all the things that made it a rubi in the first place. if you plan on putting after market axles and lockers as part of your built the get a sport. If you're just going to put a 2.5 on and some meat then at the end of the day the rubicon will be a much more capable vehicle.

 

[JeepUpKeep37s]

I was in many daily driver situations and the lockers did get us out of a problem situation. We were traveling from Minneapolis to home about an 8 hr drive. It was pretty bad conditions but able to move close to 60 at times. We saw a semi in the ditch with a driver in the middle of no where. We stopped and checked to make sure he had help as he looked stranded. He was fine but we were not. When we stopped on the shoulder I backed up to get closer to the semi. As I did so I had got too close to the edge of the shoulder and there was no way of knowing the it would drop off. Now I have 2 wheels in the ditch, axles resting on the shoulder and tires in snow. In 4x4 the wheels just would spin and nothing on the other side of course. Well dropped into low and locked everything up and I got out eventually. About the worst stuck. The only time I have not been able to move is when the belly is hung up and no wheels are really in contact with the ground.

A friend of mine just bought his second jeep. We talked about it and he came to the conclusion that if he did not get the rubi then he would be disappointed when he would need the lockers.

Stronger front axle internals, lockers, transfercase is geared better and much stronger, rubi rails are on. Yeah your going to 2.5 lift and 35's but this is the perfect build for a rubi cause the axles will do. If your going bigger then 37"s then you should get a sport to get stronger axles. A transfercase swap with an atlas too.

Go rubi or be disappointed. I bet you will buy a locker or 2 anyway. It's the little things that are nice in a rubi. Don't forget about the antiswaybar disconnect that is my favorite part. If you ad up two electric lockers, sway bar disconnect, transfer case and you will come up to more than the difference for the rubi. If your cheap and just get lockers and removable sway bar links it will still cost $3200. One lunchbox locker and sway bar links and your looking at about $1000. But you want good onroad manners so a lunchbox locker is perhaps not for your family to drive. So your looking at about 1700 for links and an electric locker.

I say get a rubi either way. It's done and you have warranty as well.

 

[Jerry1]

Thanks for the info so far everyone. I'm traveling much of this week so I probably won't get around to ordering my Jeep until next weekend so keep all the great feedback coming!

And thanks for the Autoblog link. I did read that but it was a couple months ago so a refresher read was nice.

 

[jeeperjkj]

I'll add to some of the above posts. If you're gonna stay mild... I mean, really mild with it, then get the Rubi. It's not that the Rubi won't handle more than a mild build, but if you're gonna start ripping everything out, then just go with a Sport and call it a day.

I never dreamed my JK would be this big so early in her life, but if I'd known, I'd have bought an X and built it up. I, too, thought that 35's would be "good enough". Look where she sits now.

Only you know you. Do what's best for you.

The money you save buying a Sport can be used toward the axles, Atlas, etc.

You could also get the Rubi and sell of the Rubicon parts as you upgrade them. I did this and did recoup quite a bit of the initial upcharge (besides the transfer case which I cracked in 1/2 ).

 

[Jerry1]

Thanks. For our use, I would think your definition of mild would likely be my definition of moderately aggressive. While I love the look of your rig and I'm sure it's quite capable, I don't ever see myself going nearly that far. In fact, I want to plan for 35's but will likely start with 33's. And for now, I'm probably more of a Duratrac type owner than an M/T type. Who knows what time will bring but those are my thoughts for now.

 

[Gotlime?]

Rubicon.

 

[jeeperjkj]

Thanks. For our use, I would think your definition of mild would likely be my definition of moderately aggressive. While I love the look of your rig and I'm sure it's quite capable, I don't ever see myself going nearly that far. In fact, I want to plan for 35's but will likely start with 33's. And for now, I'm probably more of a Duratrac type owner than an M/T type. Who knows what time will bring but those are my thoughts for now.

Yeah, the 35's were "aggressive" for me at one point, too. Then, I realized how addictive this stuff is and wanted to go bigger. Never intended on going this big until Goodyear decided to quit making reliable quantities of the 38" and 40" Kevlars.

Duratracs are probably a good choice. Look at the Falken Wildpeak/Rocky Mountains, too. Excellent tire. I run them on our Commander and they're great.

 

[DynoGuy]

If I'd do it all over I'd get the Rubi mainly for the transfer case and D44 front axle.

 

[Jerry1]

I may change my mind a dozen times this week but right now I'm thinking the Rubicon for the T-case & lockers. I still plan on trying to make a deal on Saturday. Thanks for all the advice so far.

 

[Jonboy]

i had the same debate when I was in the market for a 2012 JKU. After remembering how much I spent on my old YJ on lockers, etc, it was a no brainer, especially when you get a factory warranty w/ it.

 

[Jerry1]

Well, tomorrow is the big day. Hopefully the "dealer" will do just that... Make me a good deal!

 

[itsthelaw]

I am in the same position you are in right now and will be purchasing my Jeep very soon. I have come to the conclusion that I will buy the Sport version instead of the Rubicon. After reading as much as possible and talking to anyone who would help (many!), I think the right vehicle for me can be built on the Sport. I also will be 95% pavement and won't beat it up at the onset.

I plan to get the Sport with the bare bones options and a few that have been suggested. I plan to run 35" and, maybe, 37", so I will regear immediately. I am going to get a 2.5-3" lift, tires, wheels, and regear. Then I will likely have the u-joints and axel shafts replaced after I drive it a bit. Maybe steering and brakes if I get 37"s. The only item on my list that I would not have to do is the gearing with a Rubicon...IMHO. I will likely do 4.56 gears, so I can actually dial in the gears for the wheels and driving that fit me.

The ONLY reason that I would consider the Rubicon is for resale value, but nobody ever "plans" to sell a Jeep.

Of course, I am a newbie and this fits my needs.

Congrats on your future purchase. I know exactly how excited you are about it. Enjoy!