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Discussion Starter #1
I ordered a Rubi rear axle assy for my X, figured it was the cheapest and most reliable way to get a locker in the rear without having to have someone set up the gears.

It has two electrical connections, one for the locker and one for the sensor. Can someone please post the schematic and diagram on which is which?
Per the last issue of Peterson's, all that's needed is 12 volts to the locker, no magic pulse modulated signal. I would like to utilize the sensor also, so any info on the specifics for that would be great too. I'm guessing it just relays a signal to the dash indicator on whether or not it's really locked, right??


If anyone goes this route, I found out the dealer can get them for the same price as they are on the internet, but there is no shipping charge, just sales tax. The tax was cheaper for me than the shipping charge, your mileage may vary.
 

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1. is the locker and 2. is the sensor.

You could use the sensor to illuminate an LED to let you know when the locker is actually engaged, or just forget about it.
 

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1. is the locker and 2. is the sensor.

You could use the sensor to illuminate an LED to let you know when the locker is actually engaged, or just forget about it.
Thanks a ton, Phil. So the sensor is actually an switch that telltales the operating condition of the locker? Hopefully, open contacts, no lock. Closed contacts, locked. I'll know in about 6 days.
 

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I ordered a Rubi rear axle assy for my X, figured it was the cheapest and most reliable way to get a locker in the rear without having to have someone set up the gears.

If anyone goes this route, I found out the dealer can get them for the same price as they are on the internet, but there is no shipping charge, just sales tax. The tax was cheaper for me than the shipping charge, your mileage may vary.
"Cheapest and most reliable..." Just took my 07 JK Rubicon in as the rear locker is not fully engaging. Dealer determined it was an actuator and ordered one to replace it (under warranty) and have it finished Monday. It's now Wednesday. The dealer had problems ordering the actuator. Seems Jeep has been having problems with them. Rather than sending the actuator they are sending a complete differential.
 

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Thanks a ton, Phil. So the sensor is actually an switch that telltales the operating condition of the locker?
Yes, it feeds it through the computer, but that is all it does.

Hopefully, open contacts, no lock. Closed contacts, locked. I'll know in about 6 days.
I can't recall, but think that is how it works. 60 seconds with a multimeter will tell you for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Parts update

Found the p/n's for the harness assemblies:
Front locker harness 52104603-AB, 27.82.
Rear locker harness 52104605-AB, 31.55.
I *think* these are repair parts, plugs with wire pigtails. I'll call the parts dept tomorrow and confirm this.
The full harness, which includes front and rear locker, foglights and e-disco connections is P56055357AF. It runs about 120.00.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
**Correction**

Found the p/n's for the harness assemblies:
Front locker harness 52104603-AB, 27.82.
Rear locker harness 52104605-AB, 31.55.
I *think* these are repair parts, plugs with wire pigtails. I'll call the parts dept tomorrow and confirm this.
The full harness, which includes front and rear locker, foglights and e-disco connections is P56055357AF. It runs about 120.00.
The above pigtail harness numbers (52104603-AB, 52104605-AB) are wrong, they are for the 2006 rubicons:bawling:
The full harness number is right, and it's for the four door. I ordered it today from the dealer for 72.00. The two door harness, which is identical to the four door except for length, was 117.00. Go figure:confused: I'm going to modify it anyway, cutting out all that is not needed so the extra length may come in handy during the final fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Rubi Axle is in

Just got a call from the dealer, my axle is in.:bounce: I'll get it installed this weekend and do a write up on everything.
 

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Just got a call from the dealer, my axle is in.:bounce: I'll get it installed this weekend and do a write up on everything.
Done yet?:smokin:
 

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Done yet?:smokin:
Yeah, it's done. I couldn't get my hands on a camera in time, so I didn't get any shots, but it's very simple to do, only took 3 hours. Basically unbolt all the stuff holding it on, roll it out, swap the wheels to the new one, roll it in and bolt it back up. I removed and re-used my old calipers so I didn't have to bleed the brakes. I now have a rear locker that I can turn on when I want:bounce::bounce::bounce: Now I need to do the ESP mod so I can do donuts:lol::lol:

I'm going to test it out tomorrow before the storms/snow gets here.

Wiring was very easy, I bought a stock harness and cut what I needed out of it. The rear sensor is just a switch, it closes when the locker actually locks. The locker works when you put 12 volts to it, turns off when you kill the power. Very simple.

I used a Carling Coutura II rocker switch that has two indicators on the rocker, the bottom one goes on when I flip the switch indicating power to the locker, the top one goes on when it locks. Mounted it, along with another for the front, in a Daystar switch panel.

I didn't bother with a relay, the switch will handle 20 amps, so I mounted a 6 position aux fuse block behind the glovebox and 20 amp fused it. I used another fuse position for the lock indicator. I'll use another 2 positions when I get around to doing the front.

This was my most expensive mod, a little under 1600.00. I am now officially ready (I think) for Moab with 2.5 week to spare.
 

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Locker switch relocation

I want to move my existing locker switch, '07 Rubi, to the new set of switches that come with the new '11 Rubi. The new switches mount just below the driver side A/C vent and are much easier to locate than the old ones above the shifter lever.. I do not have a diagram to show the wiring.. The new switch has a three connector plug that powers both the lockers and the sway bar disconnect...

Help Please.. :confused:
 

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3 year old thread revivals FTW!

Maybe reroute, or possibly extend your connections at the old switch. If they're really different, I would start a new thread with some pics of the old and new switch side by side, as well as the wiring. Someone with teh elektrik skillz will help you.
 
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