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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Whats involved in switching out the front D30 of an X with a D44 from a Rubi?

The D44 has the factory lockers and 4:10's so I'll have to hook up the locker and switch out gears, either re-gear both or put 4:10"s in the rear.

Besides that is it a simple bolt in swap?
 

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Is it just the 44 housing? If so, you'll have to get shafts, also like you said you will either have to regear both axles, or if you wanted to keep cost down, just regear the rear to 4.10. You will also have to being it to a dealer to get re-programmed after installed.

There is probably much more than what I listed but as long as you have everything you need it should be a bolt in. And by bolt in you will certainly need the help of a few people, some rollers, transmission mount, etc.

Good luck and good decision on getting rid of the turd!
 

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It is a simple bolt in swap. You will have to add a switch on the dash and wire 12 volts to the locker to make it work. The rubi wire harness and factory rubi switch will not make the locker work.
 

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you just bolt it in. If you want the locker to run you add a 12 volt switch to the dash and run it to the axle. I ground the plastic off the plug on the axle and crimped fittings to it, then taped it and basically made my own plug.

my recommendation is if you have to regear the rear anyway, you might as well regear the front and put some decent 4.88's or 5.13's in it. (or 5.38's if you have an auto).

other than that, you just bolt it in.

everything knuckles out interchanges as well. the stubs in your 30 use a different ujoint so they don't, but the brakes, unit bearings, and knuckle, steering, etc all swap over.
 

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After my D30 was destroyed by an idiot i lent my rig to, i had a D44 swapped in. The mechanic took longer sleeving and gusseting the axle than installing it. Super simple to do from what i saw. hardest part was wiring the locker...and i was already regeared to 5.13's but had to regear the new D44 to match the rear. Love it....best $2000 i ever spent on the monster.
 

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you just bolt it in. If you want the locker to run you add a 12 volt switch to the dash and run it to the axle. I ground the plastic off the plug on the axle and crimped fittings to it, then taped it and basically made my own plug.

my recommendation is if you have to regear the rear anyway, you might as well regear the front and put some decent 4.88's or 5.13's in it. (or 5.38's if you have an auto).

other than that, you just bolt it in.

everything knuckles out interchanges as well. the stubs in your 30 use a different ujoint so they don't, but the brakes, unit bearings, and knuckle, steering, etc all swap over.
yup i did the exact thing with the plug.. easy swap worth it :beer:
 

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Lynch why would you need to reprogram the computer after an axle swap?

the only thing that would be off is the speedo and it would only be off by a very small percent.

Regear for the back to match is a must or you won't have 4x (if you plan in bigger tires ever nows the chance to gear both)

It can be done solo but it is more fun and less work with two sets of hands.assuming a complete brake to break axle, all you'll need to do is wire the locker switch. 12v $2 from napa or whomever you want. ( I do like the rocker switches from daystar or the ARB lookalikes)
 

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I swapped a rubi 44 rear and a pro-rock 44 front w/ rubi locker into my x. It's a pretty plug and play install. I purchased the factory rubicon locker wiring harness and chopped it up in order to wire both lockers independently to their own switches on a 12voltuy switch panel that's mounted in my dash. Everything works as it should and having selectable lockers kicks ass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Plan is to swap out the stock D30 and replace it with a Complete D44 from a rubi, minus the brakes. Then regear and lock the rear.
 

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Find a full set of rubi axles if you plan to regear to 4.10 and lock the rear... it'll end up cheeper I bet.

Its what I did on my Sahara, no fuss no muss... the only reprogramming you need is for the speedo. I ran my switches to relays just for insurance. I also ran the ground wire for the light on the end of the switch through the sensor wires on the locker. There are 4 wires on the factory locker, 2 are +&- to activate them and 2 provide continuity when the locker fully engages. Running the ground post on the switch through there made it so I still had feedback on the lockers status like a stock rubi, that way you don't hammer on it till its fully locked up.
 
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