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Discussion Starter #1
I installed my Rock Krawler 2.5" max flex system a few months ago and have had a great time with it, however, it's always rubbed on the lower driver side control arm. I thought was that I have my track bar set wrong, so after doing some adjusting and getting it perfect mathematically and within a 1/64" doing the "tire to the frame" measurements, it still rubs. It also rubs a tad, far less than driver, on the passenger side. I think I'm going to run spacers to fix my problem, but I wanted to make sure I've tried everything before I go that route.

If spacers are the way to go here, is there any reason to run them in the back also?

Thanks,

Tyler
 

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Adjust your steering stops.
 

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Do you know what size tires and what wheel off-set you have?

When the suspension compresses, the front axle will shift to the right, due to the track bar moving up in an arc. Therefore your left tire will come closer to the frame/LCA. But if BOTH tires are rubbing the LCA's, you need to adjust the steering stops or add more BS to the wheels.

I have the RK 2.5" Max Travel lift, also. Running 37x12.50's on 4.5" BS wheels and they rubbed the LCA's. I had to put 1.5" wheel spacers on there (in effect, created 3.0" back spaced Wheels.) No more rubbing. Try adjusting the steering stops first before you go the wheel spacer way.

And yes, I adjusted the steering stops but couldn't find a good compromise between enough stop and tight enough turn radius.

No, you do not need to put spacers on the rear wheels. They do not turn into the LCA's. But the front tires will stick out more if you put spacers only on the front (will look kinda weird).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Adding spacers will prevent the rubbing and you will be more stable off road.
Running a 37x12.5" wide tire needs more like a 3.5" bs on a LCG build.

im at 3.75" b.s. on 37x13.5's and an rk2.5" and still get a slight rub at full lock
These are the answers I'm looking for. I'm only on 35's, and 4.5" of backspacing (sorry for that not being in the OP), but it sounds like an extra inch and a half would more than do what I need it to do. I don't think I'll adjust the steering stops because I utilize my full turing radius, lock to lock, pretty much daily. As for odd width stuff, I'll run it for a bit and see what it looks like.

Thank you for answering all my questions gentlemen :beer:

Tyler
 

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This may be way out there but have you checked to see if the LCA are installed correct? When I bought my 2011 the tires rubbed on both arms and could not turn in my driveway. The previous owner had the lift installed and it was backwards.
 

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We like the 3.5 to 3.75" of B.S. for 37's with a slight adjustment to the steering stops for the overall best compromise. It is tough. Most aftermarket Dana 60 axle manufacturers for 37's and 40's will increase the track width to 68 3/4 for their standard axle offerings so larger tires with bigger tire sweeps will clear without an issue.

Hope that helps.

RK
 

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Discussion Starter #9
We like the 3.5 to 3.75" of B.S. for 37's with a slight adjustment to the steering stops for the overall best compromise. It is tough. Most aftermarket Dana 60 axle manufacturers for 37's and 40's will increase the track width to 68 3/4 for their standard axle offerings so larger tires with bigger tire sweeps will clear without an issue.

Hope that helps.

RK
Yeah, the wider axles would make life easier, but that simply isn't an option currently. Anyway, I'm on the 2.5", but with 35's and 4.5" of backspacing, so I imagine I fit into that category of just being too narrow. I'll order some spacers and solve the issue that way. Not crazy about them, but shortening my steering is a less appealing option.

And the arms are installed correctly, lol, but good looking out.
 
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