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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does Rough Country Suspension lifts make every part of the country rough? I have the 4" lift and I swear if there is penny in the road and I run over it... it feels like I ran over a boulder. Dropping off of things it isn't too bad but road characteristics... WTF!?
 

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What shocks? Still have stock (too short) arms?

IMO trying to get a good ride on a short arm with 4" of lift will take some effort on the manufactures end for spring rates/shock valving to help compensate for the control arm angles. Teraflex and Rock Krawler are a couple of the top of my head that I consider to pay attention in R&D to what vehicle the components are going on and tailor to it. The price difference exists for a reason when it comes to an overall system.

Teraflex 4" lift w/shocks w/arms w/front track bar- $2600
Rock Krawler 3.5" lift w/o shocks w/arms w/front and rear track bars - $1900
Rough Country 4" w/arms w/shocks w/front track bar - $1200

Add a set of good shocks to the RK kit and you are at ~$2700.

Wonder why Tera and Rock Krawler are more than double? It's not $50 to $100, it's $1200 to $2700 for the "same" components. I'd say they have the reputation to back it up as well.

Just my uneducated 2cents on the subject and trying to compared vendors.
 

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I ran their 4" basic lift on my 2 dr jk. Was definitely a little rough but I ended up upgrading to RK front arms and tera front track bar which helped alot with on road characteristics.
 

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Went from a RC 3.25" to Teraflex 2.5" and reused the spacers.

NIGHT AND FREAKIN DAY DIFFERENCE!

The spring rate on the rear of the RC is WAY out. I doesn't work as
a unit with the front. It felt like two different suspensions, where as
the Teraflex works together as a whole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What shocks? Still have stock (too short) arms?

IMO trying to get a good ride on a short arm with 4" of lift will take some effort on the manufactures end for spring rates/shock valving to help compensate for the control arm angles. Teraflex and Rock Krawler are a couple of the top of my head that I consider to pay attention in R&D to what vehicle the components are going on and tailor to it. The price difference exists for a reason when it comes to an overall system.

Teraflex 4" lift w/shocks w/arms w/front track bar- $2600
Rock Krawler 3.5" lift w/o shocks w/arms w/front and rear track bars - $1900
Rough Country 4" w/arms w/shocks w/front track bar - $1200

Add a set of good shocks to the RK kit and you are at ~$2700.

Wonder why Tera and Rock Krawler are more than double? It's not $50 to $100, it's $1200 to $2700 for the "same" components. I'd say they have the reputation to back it up as well.

Just my uneducated 2cents on the subject and trying to compared vendors.
I have the RC 2.2 shocks... I have the stocks arms in the back which Is part of the rough ride problem... on the front I have the CA drop brackets... which helped the ride quality a little. Adjustable upper CA's should be here next week... Waiting on the CA ends to arrive so I can make my own Lowers...

^ what he said... plus... how much air pressure you got in your tires?
Whatever is the recommended psi for the 35" BFG's (I can't tell you off of the top of my head)

I ran their 4" basic lift on my 2 dr jk. Was definitely a little rough but I ended up upgrading to RK front arms and tera front track bar which helped alot with on road characteristics.
Yeah, I'm already in the process of miss-matching parts... lol My fingers are crossed that everything works nicely together.

Went from a RC 3.25" to Teraflex 2.5" and reused the spacers.

NIGHT AND FREAKIN DAY DIFFERENCE!

The spring rate on the rear of the RC is WAY out. I doesn't work as
a unit with the front. It felt like two different suspensions, where as
the Teraflex works together as a whole.
It definitely feels as if there are two different suspensions on it... lol.
 

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Whatever is the recommended psi for the 35" BFG's (I can't tell you off of the top of my head)
I'd start there and check that since it's a free fix and often overlooked. Hope you're not referring to whatever is printed on the sidewall as "recommended pressure"... that's max pressure for the tire's rated load capacity. That would be way too much.

Personally, I run 28 psi in my 35" MTR/K's and get excellent wear, and smooth ride.
 

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Whatever is the recommended psi for the 35" BFG's (I can't tell you off of the top of my head)
Some shops will fill them to 40-60 lbs, or whatever the 'max' on the sidewall is. Most people consider that to be way too high for normal driving, and will suggest somewhere in the 28-35 range for 35's. It may take some experimentation to find the right psi for you.
 

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Went out a looked at the tires... they're all approximately 6lbs from max. I noticed that the dirt on the tires was only on the center portion... Tomorrow I'll let some air out.
Bingo. Air them down to about 30-35psi and you'll see a drastic improvement. I noticed the same problem when I first put my wheels on. They came from DTD with the max psi in them.
 

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I just got my 35" KM2's yesterday and with 38psi the ride is smooth and handles great on and off the road!

I had the RC 2.0 shocks and BB lift the ride sucked with stock tires and since switching to the RK lift and King shocks with BFG 35's I'm very happy now you really do get what you pay for!!!
 
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