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Rough Country BB: Before, after, tips

7K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  thecoz 
#1 · (Edited)
Put my lift on this weekend, with the help of two friends. It took us about 5 hours but we weren't in a hurry.

Stock

Lifted It sits level now

With 285/70/17 Goodyear Duratracs


I added the rear sway bar links (and moved stock rears to the front) and the rear track bar bracket. Here are my tips, since I wasn't considerate enough to do a full write up.
1. We used a cordless impact wrench to loosen anything it would reach, maybe the greatest tool ever for saving knuckle flesh.
2. The rear goes on pretty easy, and the nuts and bolts that hold the rear spacers in place aren't too hard to reach and hold in place while you get the threads started.
3. When doing the front, don't be afraid to really push down on the axle to get the springs back in. Just keep an eye on brake and ABS lines.
4. The front brake line extensions are a PITA. After doing the rear ones I thought it was going to be easy enough, but the front ones are not nearly as flexible. On the passenger side I had to pull some of brake line horizontally and then straighten out some of the factory bends (Be extremely careful not to pinch the line shut).


On the driver's side you need to pull the line out of the clip, under the hood, just beneath the master cylinder. Then remove the top clip that holds the ABS sensor to the brake line, inside the wheel well.


5. I never could figure out which one of the front shock relocation brackets goes on which side (and the directions lead me to believe they would only fit one side). My buddy has his with the part number side facing out outwards, so that is the way we did mine.
6. I had a little rubbing on the passenger side rear brake line, bent it out a little and problem solved. This didn't rub when I first put it back on the ground, but after a little driving it became an issue.


7. Ground clearance at the skid plates went from 9 1/2" to 12 1/4". Not sure what that does to break over angle, but as a vertical distance it is significant.
8. Read the directions and use these tips, and other people's, and anyone competent enough to change their own oil can handle this modification.

Flexing: This is with the sway bars disconnected. No rubbing and the brake lines still have slack.



Thanks to Anthony as WS Offroad for answering my questions on a Saturday.
:beer:
 
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#6 ·
Nice write up. It helped me with my install this past weekend.

I did not use the front brake line extensions on the front. Although there is hardware for all 4 brake lines, that step is missing from the enclosed instructions as well as the on-line version. I assume it's step 9 as that one is missing. Once I re-attached the front shocks the brake lines seem to be OK in the stock location at full extension. I was worried about the staightening out the factory bends. We shall see if the stock location works.

I did the install by myself, the only way I could push the axles down to reinstall the springs was to use the scissor jack from the JK to push down on the axles.
 
#8 ·
Glad to help, going to add a few more pictures to pick up where the printed ones left off.



So you didn't use the extensions on the front brake lines? And at full extension it's ok? That's good to know, but I haven't had a chance to flex mine out since the install.
 
#11 ·
You're welcome for the pics, I think they make the explanation easier. I have heard "full droop" and assumed that was sitting on stands, hanging, like you describe. Flex would be one side up, the other all the way down, possibly still off the ground. I don't know if droop or flex goes lower, maybe someone can chime in and help us out. In my mind they would be the same.
 
#12 ·
So do the sway bar links not come normally with the kit I just ordered the RC 2.5 coil kit...So I need to order sway bar links?
:thankyou:
 
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