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Hello, we've tried contacting the Admins several times regarding posting as a new vendor, please PM us with details as we do not want to start off on the wrong foot.

Allow us to introduce ourselves; we are RIPP Modifications llc located in Staten Island NY. We are new to the Jeep community, bringing our 16 years of performance experience directly to you. We look forward to answering all your questions and starting a long lasting and fruitful relationship. As some of you may have heard, we have produced a supercharger kit for the JK (automatic and manual transmissions) and we are launching the kit this month.



http://www.rippmods.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2007%2DSDS%2D1

Installation is fairly easy and can be completed in 6-8 hours with basic mechanical skills and basic mechanics tools, and we offer a live tech line during normal business hours and a tech email address as well. Most importantly our supporting electronics come pre-programmed and do not require further tuning, so for all the DIY'rs out there, fire up the grill and make it a fun installation day.

We’ve read through some of the posts and found some misconceptions regarding our system and logic. We’ve done our best to anticipate every conceivable question we’ve seen so far, to properly lay out the facts as we’ve seen them over the 30000 miles of testing, both on and off road and in all weather conditions and over the past 15 months. We have accrued an enormous amount of data from stock to supercharged with every modification in-between. We allocated considerable mileage for testing and data logging with each modification.

To be clear our system runs as follows:
• 100% check engine light free environment, we work in conjunction with the Drive By Wire control systems, Traction Control Systems and Brake Assist System.
• 100% compatible with the stock exhaust manifolds, cats and exhaust
• 100% compatible with both automatic and manual transmissions.
• Does not require any hood or body modifications
• Produces a minimum of 80whp up to a logged maximum of 125whp above stock (tire/gear dependent) through factory stock manifolds, cats and exhaust.
• The kit comes pre-tuned and will not interfere with dealer ECU re-flashing; in fact the better it runs stock the better it runs Supercharged
• Pass’s any state sniffer test (but is not CARB legal as of yet)
• Can run of 87-93 octane fuel
• Does produce better gas mileage than stock in both city and highway conditions
• Is 100% field safe, whereas if for any reason you should need to take the supercharger out of operation you can safely revert back to stock anywhere anytime - Simply remove the supplied serpentine belt and install your factory belt and off you go, no other modifications are required.

As a few of you have pointed out our Supercharger location is remotely mounted in the rear of the engine bay. There are several reasons why we elected to do so and we will gladly list them for you.



Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9JF7DgyIDU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYWXZj5b1zU

1) First and foremost it’s the cleanest and driest part of the engine bay. As many of you are well aware, dirt, water and sand can get anywhere in the engine compartment and running a supercharger which is a considerable investment, we want it in the safest place possible. The supercharger is taking in hot air from the engine bay and this is not as critical as one would think. When the supercharger is compressing air into boost, the natural reaction is an increase in temperature as high as 180 – 200 degree’s so the temperature at the supercharger inlet is not that critical. We’re not going to denounce the fact the cooler denser air isn’t better, we’re saying that for this application safety takes precedence.
2) Second, as many of you have indicated, RIPP uses a supplemental injection system, which is digitally and proportionally controlled through our proprietary electronics the RIPP Black Box. By electing to use this method of fuel enrichment it also acts as an intercooler and the misted fuel brings down Air Intake Temps (AIT) substantially under constant load.
3) RIPP has already designed and is fabricating a snorkel which contains a canister air filter and runs through the fender similar to the River Raider units. This makes our system completely self contained and submersible, without having to rely on silicon as a sealant.

Intercooling:
RIPP offers a unique self-contained intercooling system - however keep in mind the beauty of Vortech blowers (as opposed to some of our competition) is they really don’t need intercooling until you surpass 8-9psi. In testing at 7psi our Air Intake Temp’s (AIT) are only around 100-120 degree’s fully heated or “hot lapped”. It’s important to keep in mind that we are advertising our Hot Lapped WHP not a false Cold number that can only be achieved once.

Respectively, using a Front Mount Intercooler (FMI) is utterly useless in a rock crawling and/or trail riding conditions as the small units can easily get heat saturated and actually work against you. Conversely if you play in mud it will only get clogged. Instead RIPP developed a digitally controlled Wet Plenum Intercooler (RIPP Boost Cooler), using a Water/Methanol injection system. The system essentially sprays a mist of the mixture (available locally to you in any reputable auto parts store) right into the boost stream and the combination then cools the air, adds density and suppresses knock in addition to adding octane. This not only cools it also maintains clean intake runners, valves and pistons. The Boost cooler is an option and can be added at any time and would take about 30min to an hour to install.



http://www.rippmods.com/Methanol_water_injection_p/1a1g.htm

So in short, driving the JK with the RIPP Supercharger in place is like driving a JK with a larger engine, right now we are producing 243whp at 7psi through a completely stock exhaust system including, manifolds, cats and muffler. Considering that a Naturally Aspirated (N/A) is only 118-127whp on the larger 35"-37" tires and wheels. The 243whp and 254lb/ft of torque is a welcomed mod. It’s also noteworthy that the JK is running completely Check Engine Light free and we've tested on 87 through 93 Octane gas without problem (Gas mileage has gone up 4-6 points in the city and 6-9 on the highway (depending how heavy a foot you have):what?:

RIPPTECH
[email protected]
718-442-4723 x10 or 11
www.rippmods.com
 

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Do you have a dyno chart available showing the horsepower/torque curve starting from around 1000 rpms or even lower, such as from idle?
This is the same one posted on jeepforum. The dyno chart only showed above 3000 rpms. Not what I would say is used for a JK unless you are trying to really get on it. The OP never returned to answer questions that were asked.
 

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This is the same one posted on jeepforum. The dyno chart only showed above 3000 rpms. Not what I would say is used for a JK unless you are trying to really get on it. The OP never returned to answer questions that were asked.
Uhhh, go read my explanation here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5268448&postcount=20

One. It is really hard to dyno an automatic especially on the JK. To get true hp readings you must be in 1:1 (3rd gear) AND lockup otherwise the numbers would be skewed by the torque converter and gearing. This GENERALLY means, when doing WOT runs for HP the transmission won't stay in lockup/third gear much below 3000 RPMs. The JKs automatic transmission program takes it out of lockup and downshifts at random sometimes. I doubt if you will find hp curves anywhere on an auto equipped JK that have figures below 3000.

Two. A question was asked about boost at below 2000 RPM. Most of the time there will be no boost below 2000 rpm for the simple reason the throttle plate is mostly closed blocking any potential boost from reaching the manifold. I can get 2-3psi boost at 1500 rpm by holding my foot on the brake and depressing the throttle most of the way to the floor. At that RPM the torque converter goes into stall and prevents the engine from reving any higher. MOST of the time, I have 10lbs of vacuum (or more, depending on load and throttle position) at 2000rpm.

(edit: a bit of clarification. Boost goes from -15psi to 0psi and creeps up from there under acceleration. Under moderate constant acceleration (say 35% throttle as indicated by the scangauge) I'll have 0-1or2psi above 2000rpm. For real boost, the SC needs RPMS and large amounts of throttle. Even at 67% throttle where the transmission downshifts to accelerate I may only get 3-5psi as the engine ramps through 3000rpms. I watch this when I am driving on cruise control and hit a hill.)

Three. When off-road, if you are in 4LO, there will be no boost when idling or crawling. This applies to any boosted engine because, again, the throttle plate is mostly closed. This is where CUBIC INCHES help (and longer throw), something the JK does not have. If you need the boost, you step on the go pedal, the RPMs come up and so does the boost.

I have the competitors product. I'd love to have both to compare (but I am not that well off). But I am interested in the charge cooling apparatus, I always thought that was a good idea. How much for that puppy and would it work on mine?
 

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isn't this is the inherent problem with superchargers in any rock krawling vehicle?

they don't have a lot of boost at low rpm's, and actually rob power at lower rpm's, since the engine is working harder to turn the supercharger that is producing little to no boost.

this is what i have understood about them. in a JK, one would be great if you do a lot of sand dune/beach driving and high speed mud bogging, but not good for the low-speed stuff that most of us do.
 

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I guess I'm more interested at the higher RPM's (2000+). I've never ran out of power when rock crawling in 4-lo, if I hit the gas I can always spin the tires when needed. I need more power when I'm on the freeway and trying to not shift into second when climbing a steep hill and maintain 60 mph. It would also be nice when pulling my trailer with a couple of sleds on it. Just don't know if it is worth the $4600 for the 20-25 times a year I need it :)

Medsker
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do you have a dyno chart available showing the horsepower/torque curve starting from around 1000 rpms or even lower, such as from idle?
This is the same one posted on jeepforum. The dyno chart only showed above 3000 rpms. Not what I would say is used for a JK unless you are trying to really get on it. The OP never returned to answer questions that were asked.

The automatic does not lock up before 3000 RPM… That means the converter is slipping the power away and your not putting it down. When your off road in 4WL your RPM’s are up… unless your stopped at idle… if your calling for power your reving between 2500 and 4000 that’s the “sweet spot” for the 3.8 our blower brings boost in as low as 1800rpm as its of larger capacity than this engine would “normally” call for… because its larger its efficency rate is real high delivering air volume the engine can take advantage of.. its not all bout boost.


Uhhh, go read my explanation here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5268448&postcount=20

One. It is really hard to dyno an automatic especially on the JK. To get true hp readings you must be in 1:1 (3rd gear) AND lockup otherwise the numbers would be skewed by the torque converter and gearing. This GENERALLY means, when doing WOT runs for HP the transmission won't stay in lockup/third gear much below 3000 RPMs. The JKs automatic transmission program takes it out of lockup and downshifts at random sometimes. I doubt if you will find hp curves anywhere on an auto equipped JK that have figures below 3000.

Two. A question was asked about boost at below 2000 RPM. Most of the time there will be no boost below 2000 rpm for the simple reason the throttle plate is mostly closed blocking any potential boost from reaching the manifold. I can get 2-3psi boost at 1500 rpm by holding my foot on the brake and depressing the throttle most of the way to the floor. At that RPM the torque converter goes into stall and prevents the engine from reving any higher. MOST of the time, I have 10lbs of vacuum (or more, depending on load and throttle position) at 2000rpm.

(edit: a bit of clarification. Boost goes from -15psi to 0psi and creeps up from there under acceleration. Under moderate constant acceleration (say 35% throttle as indicated by the scangauge) I'll have 0-1or2psi above 2000rpm. For real boost, the SC needs RPMS and large amounts of throttle. Even at 67% throttle where the transmission downshifts to accelerate I may only get 3-5psi as the engine ramps through 3000rpms. I watch this when I am driving on cruise control and hit a hill.)

Three. When off-road, if you are in 4LO, there will be no boost when idling or crawling. This applies to any boosted engine because, again, the throttle plate is mostly closed. This is where CUBIC INCHES help (and longer throw), something the JK does not have. If you need the boost, you step on the go pedal, the RPMs come up and so does the boost.

I have the competitors product. I'd love to have both to compare (but I am not that well off). But I am interested in the charge cooling apparatus, I always thought that was a good idea. How much for that puppy and would it work on mine?
Thank you that’s again excellent input, we appreciate you putting it out there for us (again).

The boost cooler is $359.95… the unit promotes many notable features in comparison to our competitors.

• 3032 Aircraft quality stainless steel nozzle
• Built in filtering system
• Full misting cone as apposed to a hollow spray pattern
• 150psi pump operating at 100psi with built in flow control
• Digitally progressive fully automatic controller

There are a few other pro’s.. if you have any specific question feel free to ask… you can use it in conjunction with your FMIC… you would spray it after the IC before the TB.

RIPPTECH
 

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Discussion Starter #9
isn't this is the inherent problem with superchargers in any rock krawling vehicle?

they don't have a lot of boost at low rpm's, and actually rob power at lower rpm's, since the engine is working harder to turn the supercharger that is producing little to no boost.

this is what i have understood about them. in a JK, one would be great if you do a lot of sand dune/beach driving and high speed mud bogging, but not good for the low-speed stuff that most of us do.
When your rock crawling you are at idle more than through the RPM band… but when you put 3 of the 4 tires u against the rock and you have to wrap the tires around the rock and lift the 4400lbs rig up and over…. You need power! The blower will deliver the extra HP and torque even at low RPM because your bringing the RPM up naturally building boost. The V2 S Trim we elected to use for this application is over kill… because of this it needs a lot less RPM to build boost…therefore you lose a lot less crank HP… to put it in perspective your giving up 7 crank to gain 100+ wheel HP… I think we can all live with that?


I guess I'm more interested at the higher RPM's (2000+). I've never ran out of power when rock crawling in 4-lo, if I hit the gas I can always spin the tires when needed. I need more power when I'm on the freeway and trying to not shift into second when climbing a steep hill and maintain 60 mph. It would also be nice when pulling my trailer with a couple of sleds on it. Just don't know if it is worth the $4600 for the 20-25 times a year I need it :)

Medsker
No joke… this thing is nearly dangerous with 35’s.. the blowers right at home on the highway… cruising at 75 is now possible without the engine screaming and the trans hunting all over the RPM.

RIPPTECH
 

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I for one am very glad that the market is stepping up. I saw the RIPP Blower kit at the PA Jeep Show last year, I was talking to one rep, who was very pleasant and easy to talk too, I personally did not like the location of the air inlet on the blower intake side. I just hate that location. HOWEVER, I see they have addressed that now by going to offer a Snorkel system to keep that contained. Thats VERY COOL.

My question now is this....

Vortech now offers a self contained blower (about damn time, Procharger has had them for years...sheesh). Is that blower going to be available?

As for the location of the blower, I was always curious about that. COOL on explaining that. And since we are talking about intercooling, what about using Vortech's or something similiar "After Cooler"? I am sure there is a place for a water tank and a small radiator too....

But all in all. Welcome aboard and congrats...Looks awesome and I am SURE it sounds fantastic too!! :bounce:
 

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I haven't had a real NY pizza and a dirty Sabrett hot dog in a long time...I'd be willing to drive up to Staten Island and be a "Test Pilot" for your product...I'll shamelessly promote your product and answer any and all questions the forum members may have about RIPP, for just a free install...that kind of advertising is priceless...:D:D:D:beer:

Nice product, BTW...;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I for one am very glad that the market is stepping up. I saw the RIPP Blower kit at the PA Jeep Show last year, I was talking to one rep, who was very pleasant and easy to talk too, I personally did not like the location of the air inlet on the blower intake side. I just hate that location. HOWEVER, I see they have addressed that now by going to offer a Snorkel system to keep that contained. Thats VERY COOL.

My question now is this....

Vortech now offers a self contained blower (about damn time, Procharger has had them for years...sheesh). Is that blower going to be available?

As for the location of the blower, I was always curious about that. COOL on explaining that. And since we are talking about intercooling, what about using Vortech's or something similiar "After Cooler"? I am sure there is a place for a water tank and a small radiator too....

But all in all. Welcome aboard and congrats...Looks awesome and I am SURE it sounds fantastic too!! :bounce:
Cool, we’re going to be at PA Jeeps this year again… we’ll had production units there so you can see them in person. Last year we have the proto type units so they looked a little rough.

We completely understand the air filter discussion and that’s why we took the time to explain it. When we went into the design process we immediately took into consideration the way end users would be using these systems. One example would be… cruising 2 hours to the off road destination… once there stopping for about 30secs to engage the 4wd and then jumping into the first puddle they see…. Let’s be fair you want the blower with all the heat its endured during the ride down to be in the safest spot under the hood… and that’s where we placed it. Secondly we always had intentions of running a snorkel and that to us seemed like the obvious choice. We met River Raiders at PA Jeeps last year and discussed “our” snorkel location... its extremely convenient that he went in that direction and we are happy to work with them in this regard.

We haven’t done any long term testing with the Vortech Self Contained units, and to be fair, we don’t feel comfortable putting out a product we have no long term testing on. The V2-S Trim has been good to us over the years and delivered over 100k miles on multiple client platforms. We’ll consider doing testing with it, but in terms of capacity it doesn’t deliver the same efficiency we are looking for in terms of air/boost delivery. The V2 does a wonderful job in delivering both volume and boost seamlessly to the 3.8 making it undetectable from the drivers perspective. Those of you who share your cars with other family members will appreciate this as your significant others won’t be overwhelmed with a sudden burst of power, it will simply feel more powerful through for part throttle on up.

RIPP has tested with multiple types of intercoolers and has had this conversation all to many times… here are the main reasons we DO NOT elect to use any other type of intercooling system:
  1. Cost: the after cooler system is over $1000 and often touches on $2000 once you take custom brackets, piping and such into consideration.
  2. Complexity of installation: there is a considerable amount of product that has to be installed…lets face it, when your wheeling the less stuff you have to worry about the more fun your going to have. Having to worry about an extra pump to run a heat exchanger, that feeds a intercooler that plumbs to and from your blower….that a lot of stuff! Not to mention if you do break down all the stuff you have to get out of the way to get to what broke…who wants to deal with that?
  3. It has never proven to make any more power in any part of the RPM band in comparison to the Boost Cooler - no matter how hard we tried and we tried!
  4. Loss of torque through the entire RPM band: because any air to air or water to air intercooler uses a vein system (bar and plate) to cool the passing air there is a significant loss of air velocity. The loss in air speed acts like an “air brake” slowing the progression of boost and reducing total nominal output. This often results in having to over drive the blower at the crank resulting in more parabolic drag and more heat to cool… sound counter productive..? It is.

So that leads us to the Boost Cooler - which we have been using and endorsing for 7 years. Here’s why we like it.
  1. Cost $359.95
  2. Simple to install: 3 wires 4 small easy to fit hoses tuck neatly away from danger. One small 150psi pump that we provide brackets for neatly tucked under the relocated battery tray, one small controller fit high and dry on top of the fuse box... and the nozzle which we provide a pre-threaded location for next to the injectors.
  3. Digitally controlled and triggered ONLY when in boost! Therefore one less this to worry about at anytime. Its progressively feed so if your only using a little boost to get over a hill? Then you’re only using a little fluid to cool it off. This eliminates any worry of puddling or silly things like that.
  4. Air density: At higher elevations this ends up being a huge asset…guys in the mountains will appreciate this because anyone who’s brought their rigs up above 5000 sea-level knows there rigs any huffing for air. By Misting the coolant the air quality comes right back resulting in more power and better throttle response.
  5. Octane... raises the level of octane 2-3 points when in boost, so you can still get 87 octane for your daily commuting and not be afraid to step into it. (However keep in mind if your going to be thrashing it all the time- use the higher octane stuff, trust me you’ll feel the difference and your EGT's will remain consistent)
  6. Detonation suppression… no brainier.. no detonation no worry of engine failure
  7. Keeps the entire induction system clean including intake runners, valves, piston tops, plugs and O2’s resulting is a better running car.
  8. Fuel economy, by misting Meth/water injection, guess what.. your using less gas and since your using ounces at a time this leads to the 6-10mpg we advertise.
  9. Mixture is available at any reputable auto parts store as Preston De-Icer for 2-3 a gallon and it lasts you up to 1000 miles or depending how you drive:devil:
  10. In the Jeeps case theres no extra fuel tank to have to install since the mixture doubles as window washing fluid we use the preexisting window washing reservoir as the feed tank.


I haven't had a real NY pizza and a dirty Sabrett hot dog in a long time...I'd be willing to drive up to Staten Island and be a "Test Pilot" for your product...I'll shamelessly promote your product and answer any and all questions the forum members may have about RIPP, for just a free install...that kind of advertising is priceless...:D:D:D:beer:

Nice product, BTW...;)
Thanks...

Stay close we can always can use forum members that will help network our stuff out there.

I know what you mean... Every once in a while you have to pollute your system with a good old NYC Dirty Water Dog… I don’t…:)but don’t let that stop you!

RIPPTECH
 

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Thank you. Very much appreciate the heads up. I will swing over to your booth at the PA Jeep show. maybe even get a ride in it after the event?? Just to feel the power difference?
 

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Thank you that’s again excellent input, we appreciate you putting it out there for us (again).

The boost cooler is $359.95… the unit promotes many notable features in comparison to our competitors.

• 3032 Aircraft quality stainless steel nozzle
• Built in filtering system
• Full misting cone as apposed to a hollow spray pattern
• 150psi pump operating at 100psi with built in flow control
• Digitally progressive fully automatic controller

There are a few other pro’s.. if you have any specific question feel free to ask… you can use it in conjunction with your FMIC… you would spray it after the IC before the TB.

RIPPTECH
You are welcome.

My questions would all have to do with installation. Since I do have the competitors product, mine would be a really custom install. My questions, in order of my thinking:

1) Where do you mount the tank?
2) How large is the tank (how much does it hold)?
3) Are you using windshield washer fluid or buying methanol in bulk and diluting your own mix? (W/W fluid is usually is $0.99 on sale at wally world). I have heard of individuals using that for an intercooler spray.
4) How long (in your experience) does the tank last in 'normal' day-day driving? Or even long distance driving in the hills/mountains (where going to boost would be more common)?
5) Can the pump run dry? (meaning you forgot to fill the !#@$%# tank last stop).
6) How far from the TB would/could/should one mount the spray nozzle? (in my case, there is a 4-5" rubber adapter from the TB to the aluminum pipe leading up from the intercooler. So at a minimum, the closest I could mount a spray nozzle would be 6".
7) Does the/is the spray nozzle mounted at an angle to the flow (e.g. not 90 degrees spraying across the pipe, but say 45 degrees spray down the bore of the pipe towards the TB)?
8) In regards to (5) above, what happens when the tank runs dry? Do you notice an increase in EGT or ping? (I have no ping, I run premium all the time).
9) What air inlet temperatures have you observed, under load, say in normal interstate driving, with your system (manifold temp versus outside air temperature)? I have a scangauge and have become a student of mine.


So far, that is all I can think of. As I said before, its an excellent idea. depending on business, I will get one this year!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You are welcome.

My questions would all have to do with installation. Since I do have the competitors product, mine would be a really custom install. My questions, in order of my thinking:

1) Where do you mount the tank?
2) How large is the tank (how much does it hold)?
3) Are you using windshield washer fluid or buying methanol in bulk and diluting your own mix? (W/W fluid is usually is $0.99 on sale at wally world). I have heard of individuals using that for an intercooler spray.
4) How long (in your experience) does the tank last in 'normal' day-day driving? Or even long distance driving in the hills/mountains (where going to boost would be more common)?
5) Can the pump run dry? (meaning you forgot to fill the !#@$%# tank laststop).
6) How far from the TB would/could/should one mount the spray nozzle? (in my case, there is a 4-5" rubber adapter from the TB to the aluminum pipe leading up from the intercooler. So at a minimum, the closest I could mount a spray nozzle would be 6".
7) Does the/is the spray nozzle mounted at an angle to the flow (e.g. not 90 degrees spraying across the pipe, but say 45 degrees spray down the bore of the pipe towards the TB)?
8) In regards to (5) above, what happens when the tank runs dry? Do you notice an increase in EGT or ping? (I have no ping, I run premium all the time).
9) What air inlet temperatures have you observed, under load, say in normal interstate driving, with your system (manifold temp versus outside air temperature)? I have a scangauge and have become a student of mine.


So far, that is all I can think of. As I said before, its an excellent idea. depending on business, I will get one this year!
1) Where do you mount the tank?
2) How large is the tank (how much does it hold)?
3) Are you using windshield washer fluid or buying methanol in bulk and diluting your own mix? (W/W fluid is usually is $0.99 on sale at wally world). I have heard of individuals using that for an intercooler spray.

• We don’t use the tank pictured with the JK. We use the existing window washing reservoir it holds more fluid and doubles as the window washing fluid. Plus there’s a light to tell you when your low.
• We use Prestone D-Icer which is a 48/52% mix of Methanol and water. The fluid once put under pressure and finely atomized is a perfect blend of convenience, availability and performance.
• The 99c stuff in soap and water.. look in the back of De-Icer it clearly states the ingredients.

4) How long (in your experience) does the tank last in 'normal' day-day driving? Or even long distance driving in the hills/mountains (where going to boost would be more common)?
• Typically about 1000 miles or a month… since the fluid is only being used under boosted conditions above 3psi and its uses ounces at a time... it really goes a long way. Once perspective is assume you’re driving on the highway at 65mph and you want to pass the truck in front of you, you hit the gas spool your boost and 10sec later you’re off the boost… its second over ounces at as time and only over X boost.

5) Can the pump run dry? (meaning you forgot to fill the !#@$%# tank last stop).
8) In regards to (5) above, what happens when the tank runs dry? Do you notice an increase in EGT or ping? (I have no ping, I run premium all the time).

• Yes… the addition of the boost cooler means your adding consistency to the quality of the air coming into the engine. In no way are you solely relying on the mix to run. Remember it’s an option and can be added at anytime to this level of boost. In our SC’s case we never – EVER ping or detonate. If the air/fuel quality is questionable the stock ECU picks it up and our Black Box is there waiting for it to do so…and the tune it adjusted accordingly. That goes for any part of the tune; knock air temps air fuel and so on…
• Secondly…. You just spent -/+ $5000 grand supercharging your $40000.00 investment! Aren’t you going to keep an eye that level? ;)

6) How far from the TB would/could/should one mount the spray nozzle? (in my case, there is a 4-5" rubber adapter from the TB to the aluminum pipe leading up from the intercooler. So at a minimum, the closest I could mount a spray nozzle would be 6".
• 4-6inches

7) Does the/is the spray nozzle mounted at an angle to the flow (e.g. not 90 degrees spraying across the pipe, but say 45 degrees spray down the bore of the pipe towards the TB)?
• Our nozzle is killer.. it sprays so finely it can be mounted form directly pointing towards the TB to 90 degrees into the charge pipe.
9) What air inlet temperatures have you observed, under load, say in normal interstate driving, with your system (manifold temp versus outside air temperature)? I have a scangauge and have become a student of mine.
• Outside air temp is not the value you’re looking to compare it to, you’re looking to compare charge output to intake temp input. At 8psi max 200 air temp hot lapped degrees no Boost cooler… with the boost cooler 90 degree’s consistent hot lapped (meaning beat the snot out of on the DYNO). On road conditions should be identical.
• Egt’s go down 100-200 degree’s as well.



Good questions...
RIPPTECH
 

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Hey Ripp...have you signed up as a sponsor yet...I know that you have at JK forum...???
 

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I like this!

Would you be willing to do installs at your shop? Nothing better than having the Pro's do it right the first time!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hey Ripp...have you signed up as a sponsor yet...I know that you have at JK forum...???
Here is the link found in the user CP for becoming a vendor

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/payments.php
Thank you, we are looking forward to becoming supporting members, we are working out the details as we speak.

I like this!

Would you be willing to do installs at your shop? Nothing better than having the Pro's do it right the first time!
Yes, we have a working speed shop with a 1200whp AWD Dyno… You can bring your rig and any other Sunday toy you may need tweaked :devil: Install will take 1 day so you can come down early to cool it down, we can get cracking on it and do our thing and depending where you’re coming from - you’ll be home in time for dinner.

Installation should be less than $1000.00 depending if you have anything installed where the blower and its accessories go.

RIPPTECH
 
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