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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Weird shit.:( EDIT: CALLED RIGID (NOW MONDAY) AND THEY'RE SENDING A NEW ONE! AWESOME SERVICE!

Installed the SR Specter on my bumper the other day and it worked titts!

This morning, I installed a pair of D2 Duallies on the windshield mounts and they worked titts!

BUT...
Now the SR bar quit working. ???
NOTHING changed in how the bar is wired (directly to the battery per the instructions). All I did is add the other pair of ring terminals for the D2's and "Poof", the light bar no worky.

The toggle still lights up and the relay still clicks on. I also tested the connector at the light bar and there are 12.4v at the plug.
I plugged one of the old HID-X lights into the light bar's circuit and it lights up just fine.
SO... it appears that the bar is toast? How the shit does that happen? Is there a reset button, lol?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
BTW, before anybody says it... I will call Rigid. But they are closed on the weekend. Just thought maybe someone here might know WTF happened.:th_pray:
 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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Did you follow the manufacturers wiring instructions? :hide:

For shits and giggles, connect the bar directly to the battery and see if it lights. If it doesn't light up, something has failed on the internal PCB.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah dude. The instructions were followed. I'm pretty good with vehicle electronics. It worked fine when I installed it the other day. It also worked fine this morning.

All I did is add the D2 ring terminals on top of the SR terminals on the battery. The d2's work just fine but now the SR won't fire up.
Switch still lights up, and the relay IS sending 12v to the connector at the SR.
 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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Just busting your balls. :)

Wanted to eliminate the D2 wiring as the source of the issue. Bypass all of the changes made with adding the D2's and try the bar direct to battery, if it still doesn't light then something went south in the SR.

I am not 100% on this, but I am 99% sure that Rigid employs a polarity protection circuit on their lights. Normally if you wire up LED's backwards and try to feed +12 on the cathode (-) side, you will destroy them.

This probably didn't happen but based on what you said, I'm not sure what else could have happened other than a fluke failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's the weird part. The terminals for the SR were never even disconnected. I just stacked the D2 ring terminals on and put the nuts back on.

I put 2 wires into the SR's feed connector and ran those to an HIDX. When I flip the switch, the HID lights up using the SR's power at the connector.

I also ran wires from the battery to the SR and no light. :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You mentioned a protection circuit...
Would that have some kind of reset button somewhere? Like a breaker? Something I can check out?
 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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Bad SR. :( No other possibility. I'd call Rigid on Monday.
 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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No physical reset, usually it would be a diode on that side of the circuit to block inbound voltage.
 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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Have you seen this guys jeep?
It was a joke that stems back to his hydraulic bender motor. I was busting his balls. I know the guy is capable! :thefinger:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It was a joke that stems back to his hydraulic bender motor. I was busting his balls. I know the guy is capable! :thefinger:
Damn you! I thought that was long forgotten.:thefinger:
Well, the bender is working flawlessly. :thankyou:
 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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Damn you! I thought that was long forgotten.:thefinger:
Well, the bender is working flawlessly. :thankyou:
:D Glad to hear that man! Wish you lived nearby, I'd be trading you beer, hookers, and blow to use it for homebrew sport cage fab and sliders. Also glad to hear Rigid stepped up, like anyone doubted they would, and got you handled!
 
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