JKOwners Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
962 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Because I had my grill on and off a few times this weekend, I found a way to be rid of the crappy plastic push pin things and use real metal hardware. I found all this stuff at my local Ace/Westlake hardware.

You must do a little drilling to make this work.​

First pic
Components

In the first row are the rubber well nuts, .375 diameter, 1.051 long, .312-.643 grip range, with a 10-32 brass insert. If you're not familiar with well nuts, they expand and shorten as you tighten the screw in the threads, which are in the bottom end of the well nut.

In the second row are the stainless steel spacing washers, .375 I.D., .875 O.D. The O.D. is important here, as they have to set in the indentions in the grill. I used these because the measured thickness of the grill and the support is .285. The well nuts working range is .312-.643, that made me ~.027 short, so the washers are about .030, enough to meet the minimum requirements of the grip length.

In the third row are the stainless steel washers, #12, that go between the screw head and the top flange of the well nut. These provide the neccessary slip surface by keeping the head off the well nut.

In the fouth row are the screws, 10-32x1.00. These barely engage the threads when put in, I should have gone 1.25. These work though.

Second pic
Assembly

This is how it goes together, the two washers sandwich the well nut flange, and the whole thing inserts in this configuration.

Third pic
Prep work

You must drill out the holes to .375 to accept the well nuts. The holes are already at .312 (5/16), so I stepped drilled to .343 (11/32), then to .375 (3/8).

Fourth pic
Installation

Take the component assemblies and insert into the holes, making sure you have only engaged a few threads. Push on the screw head to seat the assembly. The large washer should fill the indention nicely. Tighten the screw until you feel some resistance and see the flange of the well nut start to distort. Caution:The screws will not tighten completely. Do not over-tighten, as damage to the well nut will occur.
To remove, loosen the screw until it is clear of the well nut threads, then re-engage a few turns. Pull on the screwhead and remove the assembly, taking care not to loose the large washer. It may flip out of the hole. Ask me how I know this:D

That's it, you now have real, removeable, reuseable grill fastening hardware that not only looks good, but will not corrode.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Bump for another great inexpensive mod...:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
While McMaster is not as cheap, I did not have time to run around looking for these. I figured I would post up the part numbers.


93495A190
Rubber-Insulated Rivet Nut 10-32 Thread, .312"-.643" Material Thick Range, packs of 10

91772A835
18-8 SS Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw 10-32 Thread, 1-1/4" Length, packs of 50

92141A013
8-8 SS General Purpose Flat Washer No. 12 Screw Size, 1/2" OD, .03"-.05" Thick, packs of 100

93852A103
8-8 SS Type A USS Flat Washer 5/16" Screw Size, 7/8" OD, .06"-.11" Thick, packs of 2

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
492 Posts
Great Write-Up :bounce:

I just wish I could find a Company that sells these things and is willing to ship to Canada. I've struck out with McMaster and 2 other vendors :shaking:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,286 Posts
Good Write UP!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
461 Posts
Great Write-Up :bounce:

I just wish I could find a Company that sells these things and is willing to ship to Canada. I've struck out with McMaster and 2 other vendors :shaking:
You need to find someone in the States that could buy and ship it for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Great!

Great write up. I've had the grill off so many times that the plastic parts were getting a bit worn. Your detail on the required parts was VERY useful. Thanks for taking the time to share this mod.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top