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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Back from EJS I discovered I had to replace a frame side clevite lower control arm bushing. It seems all of these SoBs, no matter the manufacturer, eventually spit out of the control arm eyes and allow the eye to rub on the control arm mount bracket. Out of curiosity wondered if anyone had done a writeup on the procedure. Didn't find anything, so I thought I'd post how I do it using an old technique we used on A1 series VW (Rabbit/Scirocco/Jetta) motor mounts back in the 70s / 80s. Same process works great.

1) Press out the inner steel sleeve using a press or your ball joint tool and a socket smaller than the inner sleeve. It'll eventually just fall out.
2) Use a large socket and press out the rubber inner bushing. That will leave the large sheet metal sleeve in the eye of the control arm.
3) Use a Sawzall, hacksaw, etc. and cut through the thin steel sleeve in the control arm eye. You may cut into the eye of the control arm a bit, don't cut too deep and it's no worries. Be sure to cut through the rolled outer lip of the sleeve, too.
4) Once you've cut through it enough you can tap it out easily.
5) Use a bit of anti-seieze on the outer sleeve of the new bushing. Use a large socket, or as in my picture, a sleeve and press tool from your ball joint kit and press the new bushing assembly in until it's seated.

Voila, done!
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Discussion Starter #5
Kinda curious why go with the clevite again vs a metal cloak or synergy joint that would give you more articulation and a softer ride? Cost?
Changing bushing type would require the arm eyes be cut off an new ones welded on. The suspensions been on there for about 50k miles and this is the first one I've replaced in that spot. The rears are fine. The driver side is too close to the catalyst and spits out around every 20k. Contemplating a change to Teraflex's Alpine arms, ot just having my local fab shop make me some new arms with Synergy joints at the frame end and Metalcloak at the axle. But, at this point a new clevite is about $20 and an hour to replace, with a banana break.

The bigger issue with this suspension is the frame side upper 195100 joints, which are crap. I replaced the fronts with Tera's Alpine joints and so far (20k miles) they've held up great. They don't fit the frame side bracket without grinding off some of the housing but it doesn't appear to have caused any issues. The Alpine long arm suspension seems to get good reviews but I can't do a complete changeover without cutting off the rear brackets and welding on the new ones. Rear upper arm & joints are larger than the older long arm. Rear upper joints on the era I have are way too small.
 

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It took quite a few years & upgrades to get to it but I have been
very-much looking-forward-to cutting my remaining OEM frames side CA bracketry off asap. I replaced all axle side brckts w/ Artec's beefy goodness long ago
but have cont'd to flog the paltry brackets on the frame to near total destruction by dragging them across stuff .
" Stupid 4 door JKs..." :homersimpson:


You & thedirtman are right about the Synergy Mfg DDB bushings being a good match for your mounts, especially the one u mention nearest cat; their range of motion is accentuated by a Teflon inner layer that the innermost sleeve can freely rotate upon. It's very effective but also heat shouldn't deteriorate it over time since it's not rubber clevite. You could run some Barnes or TMR heims on those , too?
(fwiw, I don't recall the cat conv heating my clevite bushings in that location like that ...

 

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Nice write-up. I found the same issue with mine this weekend. Bushings ordered, so I will be doing this on Saturday it looks like. Appreciate you sharing this!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Depending on what size Clevites you are replacing, our bushings may be a direct fit replacement. We do have the appropriate housing dimensions listed on the product page here.
https://www.synergymfg.com/synergy-dual-durometer-bushing-ddb-series.html?category_id=4970

Our bushings do stand up to heat ok, but I wouldn't run them next to the exhaust without some kind of heat shield.
When I checked there wasn't one that matched the Teraflex clevite's outside diameter. I'd have to cut the eyes off the arms and weld on your sleeves to do the swap. The only joints I know of that are compatible with Teraflex's are Metalcloak's Duroflex, which will swap out the Teraflex Flexjoints at the lower axle side. Those seem to be robust, I've never had to replace one. The upper frame side Tera joints are way too small for the job and require regular replacements. I may have mentioned earlier, I swapped out the front upper frame side Flexjoints with Tera's Alpine joints and they have held up extremely well.
 
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