Anyone know of an easier way to remove the rear brake rotors? I've lossened up the E-brake adjuster, used Blaster on the hub, and beat the shit out of it with a 2lb sledge. Still cant get it to even budge.
Cuz he's from the East Coast where they put shit all over the roads in the winter and everything rusts together.stupid question, but did you remove the caliper?
Also, if you need to loosen the e-brake cables...they can be removed with a pair of needle nose pliers. easy
I replaced all my rotors at one point..they just fell off after removing the caliper..don't know why your having issues...
post a picture of both sides of your set up.
Nah just keep at it. I'm in Michigan so I know your pain, you can try and fit a hydraulic puller, but that's about itAnyone know of an easier way to remove the rear brake rotors? I've lossened up the E-brake adjuster, used Blaster on the hub, and beat the shit out of it with a 2lb sledge. Still cant get it to even budge.
I never understood why techs did it this way. I am assuming you are replacing the rotor? It seems to work pretty poorly and usually the only option with drums, but with discs it just seems counter-productive.Yep, I'm hitting between the studs and the brake retainers are off. I had hoped that there might be a better way then beating the crap out of it.
That's an interesting idea. I remember some of the older Ford vehicles had threaded holes in the rotor so you could use a puller on them. I don't think they were through holes though. I think they were blind holes and somewhere around 1/4-20 in size.Here is how I get them off, 1st off, beating them off is just plain silly. (unless you have anger issues then commence banging)
1st-remove caliper and hardware. 2nd-you have to dial down the e-brake adjuster if applicable)
Here's the MAGIC-
I go back to 70-80's and beyond technology, as I do still have an 80's CJ.
Do you remember when all the old rear drums came with two tapped out screw holes? What we did was insert two bolts and screw them into the drum, bolts hit the axle flange and the drum was forced off of the shoes. The issue is the same today with the hat in rotor brake pads have etched inside and it needs to be forced or "pressed" off just like the old time drums.
So here is the easy fix...drill two holes, let's say 9 and 3 o'clock (doesn't matter as long as they are across from each other) stay inside of the lugs as you want to hit the flange underneath. Drill out just deep enough to penetrate the rotor. (you will probably put two small dimples in flange, won't hurt anything) I strongly suggest using some tap/drill oil, not necessary but saves drill bits.
Now tap both holes with flat head tap and place two grade 5 or 8 bolts and crank down on them uniformly. I think I use 3/8 course tap. Provided your taps were good, you will see the hat in rotor slowly pull off. Sometimes I just use impact but it kills your tapped holes, if you want to reuse, those holes come in handy for next change! Or...
In a rush situation, I just use two taps, no bolts and hat in rotor comes off cranking down on taps!
HELPFUL TIP....drill and tap 2 new holes on NEW ROTORS so next time you can get off super easy.
I do this on every car/truck I work on and my wrists thank me...