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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so, for the past couple weeks i have been having the little oil can light turn on and back off on start up. I checked my oil and it looks good and a little above the hash marks on the dip stick... i dont know why, or what would be causing it and if its bad or if i should not really worry about it. I have searched and all i get is the billion threads on how to turn off the "Change Oil" light. If some one could help, i would greatly appreciate it.
 

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so, for the past couple weeks i have been having the little oil can light turn on and back off on start up. I checked my oil and it looks good and a little above the hash marks on the dip stick... i dont know why, or what would be causing it and if its bad or if i should not really worry about it. I have searched and all i get is the billion threads on how to turn off the "Change Oil" light. If some one could help, i would greatly appreciate it.
That light is activated by oil pressure. there is a pressure switch that will turn the light on if the Oil pressure in the block is not right.
 

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Sounds like your oil pressure is low/non-existent at startup, change oil recently?

Search "anti drain back" valve or "clatter at startup". Mopar (Wix), Fram Toughguard and a few others don't cause the issue but many have...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sounds like your oil pressure is low/non-existent at startup, change oil recently?

Search "anti drain back" valve or "clatter at startup". Mopar (Wix), Fram Toughguard and a few others don't cause the issue but many have...
Yeah but its almost time for another one. I bet it was a cheap ass oil filter that is doing it. I'll have to do it my self now and get good stuff. And I know know about the clatter but not that the filters mentioned would cause loss of pressure.
 

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It is possible the pressure sending unit could be acting up. I have changed them on many dodge vehicles for giving false oil pressure warnings.
 

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Well you could change your oil and filter and hope it goes away.... or

You can remove the sending unit from the block, and put in a mechanical pressure gauge that will show your the oil pressure in the motor then you would know if there was a problem with the sending unit to the oil system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, ill do that first. And also, if I change the pressure sensor, I would try and find one that would work with the aeroforce gauge.
 

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Ok, ill do that first. And also, if I change the pressure sensor, I would try and find one that would work with the aeroforce gauge.
sorry not that kind of gauge. what was talking about is a diagnostic tool. if you permanently remove the sending unit/switch your oil light and maybe a check engine light will be on for ever.

I was talking about something like this. should be able to get it as loaner tool
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...sure-Kit-OTC_28031638-P_N3483W_T|GRP2107_____
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ah, ok, i will check with vato zone and see if they have one, or my friend. That will probably be the next step after the oil change, if that doesnt work.
 

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When I get home I will look up the nominal pressure specs for you unless some one beats me to it

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
When I get home I will look up the nominal pressure specs for you unless some one beats me to it

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
cool, thanks :beer::beer:
 

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I get the change oil warning at start up too, changed the oil today and I still get the warning. I have been doing it myself at 3k frequency the last two changes, so I was thinking maybe there is something in the computer I need to reset. Level is good :shaking:
 

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When I get home I will look up the nominal pressure specs for you unless some one beats me to it

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

At Curb Idle Speed* (Minimum with engine at operating temperature)
34.47 kPa
5 psi

At 3000 RPM
205-551 kPa
30-80 psi

Oil Filter By-Pass Valve Setting
62-103 kPa
9-15 psi

Oil Pressure Switch Actuating Pressure
14-28 Kpa
2-4 psi

CAUTION: *If pressure is ZERO at curb idle, DO NOT run engine at 3000 rpm.
 

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I get the change oil warning at start up too, changed the oil today and I still get the warning. I have been doing it myself at 3k frequency the last two changes, so I was thinking maybe there is something in the computer I need to reset. Level is good :shaking:
This light is for Low Oil pressure . the "Change Oil" Display is reset by turning the key to yn ON position(don't start the Jeep) then fully depress the gas pedal 3 times(each cycle should be about 1 second) now turn the key off and your light should go away.

At Curb Idle Speed* (Minimum with engine at operating temperature)
34.47 kPa
5 psi

At 3000 RPM
205-551 kPa
30-80 psi

Oil Filter By-Pass Valve Setting
62-103 kPa
9-15 psi

Oil Pressure Switch Actuating Pressure
14-28 Kpa
2-4 psi

CAUTION: *If pressure is ZERO at curb idle, DO NOT run engine at 3000 rpm.
Thanks, I forgot to look this up last night.
 

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This light is for Low Oil pressure . the "Change Oil" Display is reset by turning the key to yn ON position(don't start the Jeep) then fully depress the gas pedal 3 times(each cycle should be about 1 second) now turn the key off and your light should go away.


Thanks, I forgot to look this up last night.
Thanks! :beer: I knew it was something a noob like myself wouldn't know :shaking:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
UPDATE: Changed the oil to mobil 1 SUPER and a Fram Tough Guard 3600. Light has stayed off!!!!!

no engine clatter, but i need a couple more days to make sure it just wasnt a fluke. But just an fyi. Change your oil your self, you can get a better filter and oil for about $25 instead of the $40-$50 to have it done for you.
 

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Same issue here, after my JK sat for more than 3 or 4 days , I would get dry start sounds for 1 or 2 seconds than the flash of the low oil pressure light which went off 1 secondf later.

Since then I changed the oil filter to a Napa Gold , which is made by wix. You can just change the filtger without changing the oil, some oil in the filter and very little from the engine, just check the oil level to be sure it is safe.

The dry starts got better and longer apart, I can go 6 to 7 days before getting a dry start and sometimes the low oil pressure light. Just changed over to a very high synthetic oil, letting the JK sit for a while " secondary vehicle" and see if it makes a difference. Was told by a well edcucated mechanic from Chrysler that the 3.8 has some design flaws and this is one of them.

I personally feel the new 5w-20 oils are just too damn thin , draining down from the engine into the pan way to quickly , some folks upgraded to 5w-30 oil with even better results, but can not do this until your warranty is out.
 

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I personally feel the new 5w-20 oils are just too damn thin , draining down from the engine into the pan way to quickly , some folks upgraded to 5w-30 oil with even better results, but can not do this until your warranty is out.
went to 5W-30 on last change a few weeks ago, got tired of buying the 5W-20-now all 3 of my vehs use the exact same oil..noticed the occasional startup clatter is much reduced & no diff in gas mileage:D
 

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I personally feel the new 5w-20 oils are just too damn thin , draining down from the engine into the pan way to quickly , some folks upgraded to 5w-30 oil with even better results, but can not do this until your warranty is out.
I did mine to 5w-30 after 1000 miles on the engine. I'll be damned to run "too thin" of oil while the factory will cover a defect. I'll take my shot at the tech not noticing if 5w-30 or 5w-20 comes out if the engine grenades.
 
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