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Any idea what the weight difference would be between the RROR Full skid setup in steel vs aluminum?

My 06 LJ Rubi went from 3900 lbs to 6100 lbs and my 01 XJ went from 3100 lbs to 4900 lbs.

I don't want to make my 4300 lb JKUR weigh in at 7000 lbs, but if the weight savings is marginal I think I will stick with the steel.

Anyone know the weight difference?
 

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Any idea what the weight difference would be between the RROR Full skid setup in steel vs aluminum?

My 06 LJ Rubi went from 3900 lbs to 6100 lbs and my 01 XJ went from 3100 lbs to 4900 lbs.

I don't want to make my 4300 lb JKUR weigh in at 7000 lbs, but if the weight savings is marginal I think I will stick with the steel.

Anyone know the weight difference?
Their website says the aluminum skid system weighs about half of the steel. The aluminum should work great if you don't plan to play in the rocks a lot. I don't really have that option here in SoCal lol. Id tear up the aluminum so quick its not even funny. There is something to be said for picking and choosing which skids to run though IMO, depending on what all you're doing and how good you are at picking lines.
 

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Their website says the aluminum skid system weighs about half of the steel. The aluminum should work great if you don't plan to play in the rocks a lot. I don't really have that option here in SoCal lol. Id tear up the aluminum so quick its not even funny. There is something to be said for picking and choosing which skids to run though IMO, depending on what all you're doing and how good you are at picking lines.
I saw the 1/2 the weight text on their site, but if we are only talking about 50lbs difference, that's a no brainer. Steel all the way. If its a 150 lb difference, then I would go aluminum and take the risk. Hell I bent up the RE 1/4" rolled steel skid on my LJ anyway, Clayton isn't very forgiving.

I like to think I am a great wheeler, but I've wheeled on 40" LTBs on a 108" LJ wheelbase for so long I know I'm gonna drag this long fat ass minivan across all kinds of shit. That being said, this is going to be my DD/adventure rig for a few years so I'm not gonna be wheeling hard right now. I have an armored/built XJ to beat on. I also don't like re-doing stuff so I don't mind putting on a few extra pounds right now to avoid having to redo it later.

Anyone have any idea what either one weighs? We can do the math to figure the other one out ;)
 

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All the skid systems flat out suck! There... I said it, since no one else will. Of course, if you aren't really seeing this with your aftermarket skids, I'd say the stock ones would have done you just fine, with the addition of a 'skin' for your evap and oil pan.

Now.... that being said, most of the skids out there are okay, with a little help.

What needs to be done to ALL of the skid systems (manufactures, are you reading?), is to add cross stiffeners. If you don't, you'll quickly see these nice skids turn into concaved messes.

Then.... a necessary addition is the little bolt protectors that RockHard provides with it's skid system. Otherwise.... goo luck getting those bolts out when you need to. Might be easy work in a shop with the proper tools, but on the trail.... big problem!! These little fuckers are 15 bucks each.... so add that to the total of whomever you go with (unless it is the Rockhard skid, as they come with them).

I run the Treks product.... have seen a lot of issues and a couple of redesigns. With all the redesigns, it isn't a bad system if you add the Rockhard bolt skids and cross stiffeners. I really like how Bob, the owner of Treks, listens and updates the design after real world reports from the field. Kudos to him for that! (although I haven't seen a bolt skid (maybe patented by Rockhard?), nor do I believe he's incorporated cross stiffeners yet.

If I was to repurchase today.... hands down the Rockhard, as it is the only one that gives the bolt skids in the price, the other kits you have to add it as an extra. Although I do like the Poly product too.... it looks STOUT with it's crossmember.
 

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All the skid systems flat out suck! There... I said it, since no one else will. Of course, if you aren't really seeing this with your aftermarket skids, I'd say the stock ones would have done you just fine, with the addition of a 'skin' for your evap and oil pan.

Now.... that being said, most of the skids out there are okay, with a little help.

What needs to be done to ALL of the skid systems (manufactures, are you reading?), is to add cross stiffeners. If you don't, you'll quickly see these nice skids turn into concaved messes.

Then.... a necessary addition is the little bolt protectors that RockHard provides with it's skid system. Otherwise.... goo luck getting those bolts out when you need to. Might be easy work in a shop with the proper tools, but on the trail.... big problem!! These little fuckers are 15 bucks each.... so add that to the total of whomever you go with (unless it is the Rockhard skid, as they come with them).

I run the Treks product.... have seen a lot of issues and a couple of redesigns. With all the redesigns, it isn't a bad system if you add the Rockhard bolt skids and cross stiffeners. I really like how Bob, the owner of Treks, listens and updates the design after real world reports from the field. Kudos to him for that! (although I haven't seen a bolt skid (maybe patented by Rockhard?), nor do I believe he's incorporated cross stiffeners yet.

If I was to repurchase today.... hands down the Rockhard, as it is the only one that gives the bolt skids in the price, the other kits you have to add it as an extra. Although I do like the Poly product too.... it looks STOUT with it's crossmember.
I agree. As long as you at least cover your oil pan with SOMETHING and skid you evap, your good to go.....the stock skids are more than adequate, for a while at least. I have only heard of a few people even HITTING there oil pan, let alone destroying it the point of where you need a tow home. Now if you have an auto, def a good idea to get the HD tranny pan from RK, but for a manual guy like me, a benchmark or rancho for the oil pan, and a skid for the evap is enough. Even for rocks (I think) ;)
 

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depends on the wheeling you do, i completly destroyed the all the stock skids and crossmember on my 2 door rubi, that included denting the oil pan. on my 4 door i go tthe full steel river raider set before i destroyed the stock ones, i relocated the evap.
 

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Found a good review in "The Library" that had a weight on the aluminum RROR system at 41 lbs.

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40064

I assume the steel skids are around 80-90 lbs. That would mean around a 50 lb or less weight gain by going to full steel.

For me this is such a small amount of weight to sacrifice for the strength gains. I will be ordering steel with the poly skids. I don't see it being worth the weight savings or extra $$$ for the alum.
 
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