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Discussion Starter #1

2017 JKUR on the rack getting installed our complete coilover conversion system. Our coilover system includes:
Rebel Off Road-Front Coilover Conversion System
-Front upper and lower coilover mounting bracekts
-(2x) King Coilovers 2.5 12" stroke with proprietary valving and spring rates
-90 degree fittings
-Grade 8 hardeware





Rebel Off Road-Rear Coilover Conversion System
-Rear upper and lower coilover mounting brackets
-(2x) King Coilovers 2.5 12" stroke with proprietary valving and spring rates
-Grade 8 haradware



Rebel Off Road- Front Hydraulic Bump Stop Conversion System
-Front upper recon bump stop brackets
-Grade 8 Hardware
 

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Discussion Starter #2


Rebel Off Road Exclusive Teraflex Long Arm Upgrade For Recon Coilover Conversion
-8 Arm Upgrade
-Drag Link Flip Kit
-Front Track Bar
-Rear Track Bar
-Weld on Long Arm Brackets
-Brake Lines

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Rear Sway Bar
-Currie Antirock Rear Sway bar kit with Aluminum Arms





Exhaust System
-Borla Climber Exhaust System





Driveshafts
-JE Reel Front and Rear 1350 Driveshafts Double Cardan Style Shafts




Teraflex HD Tie Rod and Drag Link
​​​​​​​
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Dana 60 Rear 40 Spline Currie Rock Jock Axle
-Standard width to match Rock Jock 44 front housing
-40 Spline Axles (Super Heavy Duty)
-ARB Air Air Lockers (40 Spline)
-4:88 Gears
-Master Bearing Kit
-Brackets (Track Bar etc.)
-01350 Yokes
-5 on 5 Lug pattern


 

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Is that an optical illusion or do your rear lower shock mounts actually hang down further than the rear differential?

What angle off of vertical are the rear shocks?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Great Question!

Our coilover conversion kit actually sits higher than the stock shock and lower control arm mount. On a JK, the factory control arm/shock mount hangs down 6 inches on a stock shock mount and is very exposed to the rocks etc. Also, the shock mount on this factory control arm bracket is on the inside of the bracket which exposes the factory shock set up to potential rock damage.

What we do is cut off 2 inches from the factory mount and remove the factory shock mount allowing just enough clearance for the lower control arm. Then we have a lower control arm/coilover mount that installs over this factory mount. We incorporate a super beefy lower control arm skid with a raised front edge. (see pics) to allow the mount (now sitting 2 inches higher) to slide over rocks etc. We also move the coilover mount up from the factory shock mount positing. (raised up from 5 inch to 2.25") We have also moved the shock/coilover mount to the outside of the mount to place it behind the control arm for greater protection from rocks etc.

Attached are some pics to help demonstrate what we have referenced.








 

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Discussion Starter #7
More Goodies!!

Second day of this build and we have installed a few components under the hood and in the interior.



Compressor System for air lockers
-ARB Twin Air Compressor
-ARB Manifold for compressor
-M.O.R.E Underhood Compressor mount



SPOD 6 source system with legends label and adapter for ARB compressor



Daystar lower switch panel

 

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2017 JKUR on the rack getting installed our complete coilover conversion system. Our coilover system includes:
Rebel Off Road-Front Coilover Conversion System
-Front upper and lower coilover mounting bracekts
-(2x) King Coilovers 2.5 12" stroke with proprietary valving and spring rates
-90 degree fittings
-Grade 8 hardeware





Rebel Off Road-Rear Coilover Conversion System
-Rear upper and lower coilover mounting brackets
-(2x) King Coilovers 2.5 12" stroke with proprietary valving and spring rates
-Grade 8 haradware



Rebel Off Road- Front Hydraulic Bump Stop Conversion System
-Front upper recon bump stop brackets
-Grade 8 Hardware
I may be mistaken, but this looks like a Teraflex LCG long arm kit that is on this jeep, if it is, here is my question. I am currently running the TF LCG Longarm 6" Lift and have wondered if Coilovers would be compatible with this system. Honestly, the 6" is more than I need and in hindsight would have only done 4" as I am running 37's on the jeep, but had originally planned for 40's then decided they were just too much for general wear and tear of everything. I have way more clearance than I need with the 37's and 6" of lift. Any guidance or feedback I could get on this or what options I might have to keep the TF Long Arms and go with coilovers and whether I could actually drop my lift approx 2" in the process (or keep it the same) would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Texas_Jester. You are correct.
On this JK we are using a Teraflex long arm kit. With coilovers you have the ability to set the ride height as well as get rid of the JK lean. A 6" lift is very tall even for a 40" tire. We work closely with a number of suspension manufacturers with long arm kits to set there kits up specifically for coilovers. You will not need the following from your current kit. (Springs / Shocks / Bump Stops top and bottom.) The rest of your kit will work fine. (Arms / Track Bars / Frame brace and HI Steer that came with your 6" kit) All of these will work great with a coilover kit. In fact we recommend the HI Steer and Frame brace too. (You get lots of droop with this Coilover kit and the HI Steer will only help it. As for ride Height. Set it up for your specific JK.

When you are ordering the kit we will want to know things like:
2Dr or 4Dr
Tires size
Do you run a Spare.
What kind of fenders you have- Steel / Alloy or Plastic
What kind of bumpers you have - Steel / Alloy or Plastic
What kind of sliders you have
What Long arm kit you have.
Do you run with a Hard top or Soft top
Do you have a roof rack
Etc.

This will help us to get your coilovers valved and sprung to your Jeep.

Hope this helps you. Please feel free to call us with any questions.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Front Axle



We have just put the last piece to the front axle puzzle!!Here is what we have u in the front:

Currie Rock Jock 44
-RockJock 44 high-pinion nodular-iron center section with thicker walls and webbing
-Larger/Stronger Dana 44 8.8" late model JK ring and pinion set
-1350 u-joint
-3-inch diameter, .375 wall DOM tube
-Currier Performance 4340 Chromoly inner/outer axles with 1350 u-joints
-Heavy gauge 3/16" laser cut steel brackets
-Upper control arm mounts include rebuildable Johnny Joints, Lower control arm mounts 1 piece construction with integrated skid plate
-Optimized for 4" lift kit with 5 degrees of pinion angle to reduce driveshaft angle and 5 degrees of caster for improved steering



-65.375 inches between wheel mounting surfaces (stock JK width)
-5 on 5 inch with 1/2 inch studs (Standaard JK pattern)
-Black Satin powder coat
-ARB Air Locker
-Teraflex D44 Front Ball Joint Set

 

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Texas_Jester. You are correct.
On this JK we are using a Teraflex long arm kit. With coilovers you have the ability to set the ride height as well as get rid of the JK lean. A 6" lift is very tall even for a 40" tire. We work closely with a number of suspension manufacturers with long arm kits to set there kits up specifically for coilovers. You will not need the following from your current kit. (Springs / Shocks / Bump Stops top and bottom.) The rest of your kit will work fine. (Arms / Track Bars / Frame brace and HI Steer that came with your 6" kit) All of these will work great with a coilover kit. In fact we recommend the HI Steer and Frame brace too. (You get lots of droop with this Coilover kit and the HI Steer will only help it. As for ride Height. Set it up for your specific JK.

When you are ordering the kit we will want to know things like:
2Dr or 4Dr
Tires size
Do you run a Spare.
What kind of fenders you have- Steel / Alloy or Plastic
What kind of bumpers you have - Steel / Alloy or Plastic
What kind of sliders you have
What Long arm kit you have.
Do you run with a Hard top or Soft top
Do you have a roof rack
Etc.

This will help us to get your coilovers valved and sprung to your Jeep.

Hope this helps you. Please feel free to call us with any questions.

Thanks
Thanks, I'll be in contact when I get ready to make the change!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
LET US NOT FORGET ABOUT THE WHEELS AND TIRES!

For this build we have used 17x9 Dirtylife Road Kill Full Beadlocks wrapped in 37" Toyo Open Country Mud Terrains. Spaced with G2 1.5 Wheel spacers.





 
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