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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have noticed that the rear extended sway bar links on my 3.5 RK lift is hitting the lower shock mount :pissed:. It makes a rally bad noise when I turn right and hit the gutter in the street. My question is do I really need the rear sway bar on my 4 door. Or is it going to matter. thanks

 

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I have noticed that the rear extended sway bar links on my 3.5 RK lift is hitting the lower shock mount :pissed:. It makes a rally bad noise when I turn right and hit the gutter in the street. My question is do I really need the rear sway bar on my 4 door. Or is it going to matter. thanks
Psst up a pic so we can take a look at it for you please.
 

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While the rear does not do as much as the front, and people do run without them, you are safer running with it. Under normal circumstances it may not make much difference, but under emergency braking, swerving to avoid something, a blow out, etc, it may well make enough difference to matter.

The ends of the sway bar should be parallel to the ground. If they are, then you need to address the issue of clearance, if they are not you should address that first and then the clearance issue.

I'm not exactly sure how they are touching the lower shock mount, do you have a picture?
 

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I ran no sway bars on my XJ and it could be scary at times.

On my 2 door JK I have NOT been running a rear sway bar. not all that noticeable on the street however it was offroad. In twisty sections the axles moved seperate from each other much more easy. However, off camber situatuations are a little scarier.

I am heading to Moab in a couple days so I put my rear sway bar back on for all the leaning out there.

I am curious how no rear sway is on the 4 door. I think the longer wheel base would make it even less noticeable on the street but off road I think the heavier body weight would intensify

EDIT: I should add what phil mentioned and that is the safetyu factor. When I say it is not that noticeable it is STILL not the safeset. If you have passengers I would leave it on as the benefit offroad is minimal to negative. I only took mine off because of stupid reasons...I just like taking stuff off my Jeep, lol and it was hitting my brake line brackets
 

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Discussion Starter #6
While the rear does not do as much as the front, and people do run without them, you are safer running with it. Under normal circumstances it may not make much difference, but under emergency braking, swerving to avoid something, a blow out, etc, it may well make enough difference to matter.

The ends of the sway bar should be parallel to the ground. If they are, then you need to address the issue of clearance, if they are not you should address that first and then the clearance issue.

I'm not exactly sure how they are touching the lower shock mount, do you have a picture?
I will post up some picks later this afternoon. Thanks for the info.
 

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The job of the anti-roll ("Sway") bar is to load the wheels more evenly than a setup without one. It increases the tires' contact patches, allowing you to have more traction and more sure-footed handling.
Can you run without one? Sure. Is it a good idea to do, just to avoid a problem? No! Your Jeep was designed to run them. It's a safety issue, as noted above. Also, your car would understeer like a PIG, roll like a bathtub in a typhoon, and have considerably less grip at the rear, which in 2HI is the place where you need it most! Silly rabbit :) Fix your problem, not create another one! Mark W.
 

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I also had this issue on the RK 3.5" kit. All the upper and lower arms were too long. Shorten them and you will be fine. Mine are ALL the way in and I still have a good pinion angle.
x2... looks like you have your axle back way too far, mine axle is back an inch w/ the RK 5.5 and they are close to horizontal, however, still very close to the shock mount.


Also... it looks like your shock is hitting too... another sign of the axle being shifted too far back.
 

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I have noticed that the rear extended sway bar links on my 3.5 RK lift is hitting the lower shock mount :pissed:. It makes a rally bad noise when I turn right and hit the gutter in the street. My question is do I really need the rear sway bar on my 4 door. Or is it going to matter. thanks


It is just me or does that spring look like it is contacting the trackbar? I'm going with what Xtreme said about the control arms being too long.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Looks like your spring is hitting the track bar as well.

I think your upper control arms are not the correct length. Only the uppers are adjustable on that kit right?
Now that you have said that I think that I am going to be going back to the shop where I had the lift put on. I didn't know that the spring was hitting the track bar until I really looked at the picture. I have only had it out one time since the lift was put on, and it was just running out in the desert. Thanks for the help.
 

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The RK kit moves the axle rearward 1" to clear the pinch seam/rock rail on the front of the rear fender.

I swear the measurements for setting up the rear control arm length used in the RK kit are off. They push the axle too far back. Your spring will hit the track bar, your sway bar links hit the axle, and your shocks may hit the housing as well.

Shorten them ALL the way up and it will all fit fine.
 
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Maybe it’s just me but the sway bar link looks too short. My sway bar ends are level and much higher, about the middle of the tire.


 

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I see your photo and I match you!!! Haha!!:grinpimp:

These are the RK links. Definately slightly shorter. (and again, the entire issue the OP is having is cured with adjusting the control arms)


 

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After looking at the pictures. It looks like Alec's sway bar link could contact the tire with the wrong offest wheel or tire. Looks like "maybe" RK made the link short enough to fit down by the wheel instead of the tire.

Just a thought.
 
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After looking at the pictures. It looks like Alec's sway bar link could contact the tire with the wrong offest wheel or tire. Looks like "maybe" RK made the link short enough to fit down by the wheel instead of the tire.

Just a thought.
The actual end of the sway bar touched the tire when I first lifted the Jeep. I actually ended up with 1.5” spacers to get that clearance but FWIW they tires also touched the UCAs also. It was because the wheels (pintlers) did not have the backspace I expected (AEV measures BS differently than most off-road wheels manufacturers seem to).

If you look at a stock JK the sway is level which is why I think Poly makes the aftermarket links longer (to compensate for the 4.5” of suspension lift)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Took the Jeep down to shop that put on the lift today (Absolute Offroad). Ounce the owner looked at he said that the axle was about an inch to far back. They put the Jeep on the lift and started to tare into it and then found that the lower and upper arms were too long. He said that some how they had put front lowers on the back. They cut them down to the right size and now it rides alot nicer and everything is in the place that it should be. :bounce:
 
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