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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pulled trigger on Rough Country 2.5 Budget Boost (Jeep JK 2.5" Series II Kit [634])



The Victim:2009 2Dr JK Sahara 46500Miles on Clock

Now I like the look of it, but finding the ride jarring on city streets. I haven't replaced the shocks, so I believe I might be maxing the stockers out, as the sound from the undercarriage is indicative of bottoming out at times.

Been thinking Bilsteins 5100's or RC's 2.2 fill me in on your thoughts and options.

The kit was hoist installed and retorqued with vehicle weight loaded as many threads indicated.

Just finding it a bit...Ahmmm...:thinking: Short wheel based Ford Ranger riding to say the least...

And before the obvious question is thrown outhere...YES SHOCK EXTENSIONS ARE ON!!!

Stock 18's Duelers 32psi
 

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You aren't close to maxing the shocks out. The ride will be firmer due to the control arms changing the angle in which they are functioning.. First off, did you loosen all the control arm bolts and re tighten them at the new ride height? If not all of the bushings are twisted and want to resist moving.

Changing springs and shocks can certainly change the ride. But what you are noticing is primarily the change in control arm angle...since the shocks and springs are the same. Getting a lifted wrangler to ride like a stock wrangler seems to take more than just spring/shocks, a firmer ride more-so comes with the territory.
 

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The kit was hoist installed and retorqued with vehicle weight loaded as many threads indicated
Yes I read that the first time. I wanted to make sure ALL of the control arm bolts were LOOSENED and then retorqued, instead you just repeated exactly what you already said...which does not specifically cover that. Installing the lift does not require loosening any control arm bolts, so it is not implied that they were loosened either.

Also, since you said it twice, "as many threads indicated" does not make any sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What you're inquiring about, control arm bolts being LOOSENED and then retorqued, done...Witnessed it first hand. Matter of fact, when I asked if it was going to be done, was pretty much told: "Is there supposed to be another way!?"

Threads: Forum posts...Not the first time it's been mentionned, I can understand the proceedure you're making reference to being overlooked in a shady tree mechanic scenario.

The install was done at a shop specializing in off road applications and strong supporter of Rough Country products.
 

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As Cuda stated, your control arms are at a steeper angle, transmitting more energy to your frame now vs. your springs as before the lift. It's a side effect of not replacing your springs with a good progressive rate (i.e. OME) spring, and not considering geometry.

I'm also assuming your rear track bar is unchanged? If so, it's a lot like your control arms. More angle means more energy transmitted to the frame. Do you notice your rear end bouncing/riding rougher than before?

You can replace the RC shocks, and maybe achieve a better ride. I'd stay away from the RC 2.2's. Bilstein's are nice, but probably not quite as soft as you're looking for. A good option would be OME's. Soft, yet controlled.

Definitely replace that front track bar bracket with a btter quality product, or consider a high steer kit.

You've gone the path many of us did to save some $$. In the end, the only real way to achieve a better ride on a lifted JK is to consider all components and opt for replacement springs/shocks, and return your control arm/track bar geometry to as close OEM as possible.
 

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As stated above, it's probably the angle change in the control arms causing the rough ride. The cheapest way to correct that is to buy some front control arm relocation brackets. I have never used them, but people that have used them had good things to say about the ride. AEV (and maybe Rugged Ridge??) make them but they're recommended for 3" or more of lift; don't know how they would work for your kit.
 
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