JKOwners Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 2016 jk that had a 6" RC lift on it. It's too high for me and I want to lower it to 3" lift. RC tells me nothing I have can be used and I have a hard time believing that.
I'm running 35" mudders on stock rims with 1.5" spacers, stock fenders. The track bar is not adjustable. DL is adjustable but I would like to flip it and get rid of the long pitman. I put on some adjustable lower CA's because the oversteer was just scary. Basically, it handles like crap and I want to fix it without having to replace it all and I'm not knowledgeable enough to know what I can and can't keep.

Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Hood
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,080 Posts
I would grab an adjustable track bar and they are somewhat right as it relates to the lift itself. You will need the coils/shocks/shorter sway bar links.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,080 Posts
I can't see for crap but is that a stock tie rod?

Good call ditching the drop pitman.

You can usually piece together something much less expensively than going with another kit. I find lots of bargains from folks that got way more jeep money than I do

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,807 Posts
If it were me, I would...
  • get some nice 3" coils - $200-500
  • replace the drop pitman with stock - $50-85
  • invest in a draglink flip adapter - $20 + 50-100 for drill bit
  • retain the stock trackbar an purchase a front trackbar relocation bracket $100-150
  • rotate your steering stabilizer out of the way $0-50

A lot of these pieces and parts can be found used for about half as much. I may even have some of them sitting unused in my garage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Those are high quality tracphone pics :shaking:

I'm not sure about the tie rod but It looks like stock. 1.375"
If it were me, I would...
  • get some nice 3" coils - $200-500
  • replace the drop pitman with stock - $50-85
  • invest in a draglink flip adapter - $20 + 50-100 for drill bit
  • retain the stock trackbar an purchase a front trackbar relocation bracket $100-150
  • rotate your steering stabilizer out of the way $0-50

A lot of these pieces and parts can be found used for about half as much. I may even have some of them sitting unused in my garage.
Thanks. I watch all the different hype videos on the different coils and then I read people saying its mostly just hype. Is there really that much difference in coils? There's so many opinions it's hard to land on one brand. What's under yours?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would grab an adjustable track bar and they are somewhat right as it relates to the lift itself. You will need the coils/shocks/shorter sway bar links.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
Thanks for the advice. I wonder if anyone has successfully shortened their sway bar links. Maybe cut out the old rod, drill a little recess for a larger dia. rod and weld up a shorter one. Do you think that could be done?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
"retain the stock trackbar an purchase a front trackbar relocation bracket"

I know the Pictures suck but I think that's a RC front trackbar bracket showing on the first pic isn't it?
My last Jeep was a 76 CJ7 back in 82. I have no idea what stock looks like.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,080 Posts
"retain the stock trackbar an purchase a front trackbar relocation bracket"

I know the Pictures suck but I think that's a RC front trackbar bracket showing on the first pic isn't it?
My last Jeep was a 76 CJ7 back in 82. I have no idea what stock looks like.
You already have the tb bracket. You can run the stock like that but i would put it on the list for eventual upgrade An upgraded front end tightens things up nicely running 35 mud tires-lol

On the links with the threaded rod style you just trim and reinstall. Yours would be more work but yes you can shorten them as you see fit/I'm sure it's been done.

Dont know where your at but around here you could find a lot of that stuff of FB marketplace or craigslist at steep discounts. Heck I still come across some stuff on Ebay for a steal.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,807 Posts
Thanks. I watch all the different hype videos on the different coils and then I read people saying its mostly just hype. Is there really that much difference in coils? There's so many opinions it's hard to land on one brand. What's under yours?
On my 2 door and 4 door I currently run Synergy 3" progressive coils with no complaints. I also have run Rancho 3" progressive coils as well. I could not feel a difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
The most important thing when lifting is geometry .
I've read thread after thread on different forums
about guys doing lifts and the handling and overall
driveabilty is not good along with increased bump steer
and wobble .
These issues occur because not enough attn was
given to the geometry . Your pinion angle front & back.
Front Castor Angle is super important .
I'm not sure what your budget is . Teraflex makes some pretty good gear at a reasonable price and they have been around awhile so a
lot of R&D and experience in the lifting game .
For a 3" lift . Your going to need adjustable upper & lower
control arms front & back. It's so you can centre axle in wheel well and to adjust pinion angle properly. The angle of the differentials pinion in relation to the driveshaft.. Meaning ideally you want a straight line following driveshaft straight threw to differential pinion.
It's so minimal stress is on the U joints and gives the smoothest ride.
The front can be fine tuned so you can find the proper balance between pinion & castor angle . Caster is the measure of how far forward or behind the steering axis is to the vertical axis, viewed from the side. This is measured by drawing a line between the top and bottom pivot points of the front upright. The angle between the drawn line and vertical is the caster angle.4 -4.5 degrees of castor is good .That is one of the huge benefits of going adjustable .As not every Jeep is the same .
You may be able to reuse your shocks . It all depends on the make .
Would they be proper length for a 3" lift ?
Springs come in different forms. Dual rate , single rate etc .
The Teraflex stuff is really good priced and haven't seen any complaints about their springs either .
Rather than messing around with Track Bar brackets and shit up front .Just go with adjustable Track Bar in stock location .
Generally guys will go with Track Bar bracket in the rear only .
You want your front Track Bar & Drag Link to be on the same angle . So before committing to a Drag Link flip would get it down to the 3" . Mounted and good to go . And than see how the geometry
looks as 3" is right on the line if a flip is necessary or not .
I would think stock pitman arm would suffice for 3" .
You have to remember , for sure want some ground clearance for wheeling . But you have to get to the trail first . Which means driving down the highway, sometimes for hours . So you want it safe and reliable at slower trail speeds and while your bombing down the highway .
Below is pic of my steering. You see how the track bar & drag link are pretty much at the same angle . That's what your shooting for .
Hope this helps
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Truck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Here is an idea, ask around the jeep club near you I'm sure some will trade lift with you. I'm sure someone has a 3 inch lift and wants a taller one. this way you get what you want and he gets what he wants and you two help each other swapping the parts around.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top