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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1. Place your JEEP 20ft from a flat wall or building.

2. Measure from the ground to the bulb placement on your head lamp lens
(Example 21 inches)

3. Take a piece of tape & measure from the ground up the wall to the same measurement from the head light. (Example 21 inches) & mark with tape

4. Turn on head lights to High Beam

5. Adjust the headlamp lens (on high beam) by the adjustment screws on the retainer ring holding the lens. The hot spot of the light on the wall should be about 1/2 inch under your mark.

6. Throw the tape away... switch to low beam & your lights should be set
 

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1. Place your JEEP 20ft from a flat wall or building.

2. Measure from the ground to the bulb placement on your head lamp lens
(Example 21 inches)

3. Take a piece of tape & measure from the ground up the wall to the same measurement from the head light. (Example 21 inches) & mark with tape

4. Turn on head lights to High Beam

5. Adjust the headlamp lens (on high beam) by the adjustment screws on the retainer ring holding the lens. The hot spot of the light on the wall should be about 1/2 inch under your mark.

6. Throw the tape away... switch to low beam & your lights should be set
I've never heard or read of setting the lights with the high beams. All high/low beam headlamps are meant to be adjusted on the low beam setting only--the high beam adjustment is correct when the low beam adjustment is correct. If you are experiencing a problem where setting the low beams correctly places the high beams too high, but setting the high beams correctly places the low beams too low, you are dealing with a poorly-designed headlamp.

Aim height is dependent on lamp axis height. See below.
This is based on the standard 25' distance from the wall.
Left measurement represents lamp axis height
Right measurement represents how much to drop the beam.

ECE (European E-code) headlamps
Lamp axis height Distance to measure downward
Up to 34.5" (80 cm) 3" (76 mm)
35" to 39" (89-99 cm) 4" (102 mm)
39.5" or higher (100 cm) 4.5" (114 mm)

US DOT headlamps marked VOL
Up to 34.5" (80 cm) 2.1" (53 mm)
35" to 39" (89-99 cm) 3" (76 mm)
39.5" or higher (100 cm) 3.5" (89 mm)

US DOT headlamps marked VOR,
and mechanical aim low or high/low beam lamps
Up to 34.5" (80 cm) N/A, do not measure downward
35" to 39" (89-99 cm) 2" (50 mm)
39.5" or higher (100 cm) 3" (76 mm)

US DOT headlamps marked VO,
Mechanical-aim high-beam-only lamps,
and Driving (auxiliary high beam) lamps
Any mount height (80cm) N/A, do not measure downward

Fog lamps
Up to 18" (46 cm) 1.5" (38 mm)
18.5" to 28" (47-71 cm) 3" (76 mm)
28.5" or higher (72 cm) 4" (102 mm)

Oh, and don't forget to prep right. To prepare for aiming, the car should have at least 1/2 tank of fuel, weight in the trunk equal to the most frequently carried load (this may be a full trunk, or it may be an empty one, or anything in between), and weight in the driver's seat equivalent to the most frequent driver. All of the tires should be checked when cold to make sure they're at the correct inflation pressure. Jounce each corner of the car firmly (grasp the bumper and push down several times rhythmically) to ensure that the suspension is settled into a normal position.
 

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Huh. After I put in my CIBIE headlamps, I just took it to a local inspection station that had a mechanical headlamp beam setter and had them look at it. A couple of things the inspector noted was the HEIGHT of the lamps....in stock form, the headlights were at the top of the mechanical range of his device. He said, with a lift, it'd probably be higher than the law allows (I think its 48" but that was a year and a half ago and I've slept since then.) The other thing was the CIBIE headlights had a picture perfect beam pattern. He let me look into the beam setter and they were dead on in pattern. A minor adjustment was required to bring one lamp into spec but otherwise they were perfect (using the OSRAM bulbs). I even noted the very sharp cutoff on my garage door when I had those bulbs.

When the OSRAMS died (in less than a year BTW. VERY short life on the high watt bulbs) I replaced them with SILVERSTARS (cheaper and more available). These bulbs are a bit diffuse on the pattern, not nearly as sharp as the OSRAMS were. I'll hit the 2 year mark on the jeep in two months so I am wondering what my local inspection station will catch. I saved the original headlamp assemblies and bulbs so reverting to original equipment won't be hard...just in case.
 

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Huh. After I put in my CIBIE headlamps, I just took it to a local inspection station that had a mechanical headlamp beam setter and had them look at it. A couple of things the inspector noted was the HEIGHT of the lamps....in stock form, the headlights were at the top of the mechanical range of his device. He said, with a lift, it'd probably be higher than the law allows (I think its 48" but that was a year and a half ago and I've slept since then.) The other thing was the CIBIE headlights had a picture perfect beam pattern. He let me look into the beam setter and they were dead on in pattern. A minor adjustment was required to bring one lamp into spec but otherwise they were perfect (using the OSRAM bulbs). I even noted the very sharp cutoff on my garage door when I had those bulbs.

When the OSRAMS died (in less than a year BTW. VERY short life on the high watt bulbs) I replaced them with SILVERSTARS (cheaper and more available). These bulbs are a bit diffuse on the pattern, not nearly as sharp as the OSRAMS were. I'll hit the 2 year mark on the jeep in two months so I am wondering what my local inspection station will catch. I saved the original headlamp assemblies and bulbs so reverting to original equipment won't be hard...just in case.
That's interesting information. Perfect pattern you say. I suspected as much:D I love my CIBIE's. I also put in Silverstars after losing an Osram, I agree with what you said about a bit more difuse. But still WAY better than stock. Oklahoma law on height is 54", so I have some room still.

So, did the inspector set your lamps using the low beam, or the high beam?
 

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IIRC it was set using the low beam. There really is only one adjusting screw on the headlamp to move it up/down. (What he said about the height is my memory. Like I said... I've slept a bit. All I really heard was I was approaching/at the max height for headlamps in Texas. Of course he could also be mistaken, but after all he was an 'official' inspection station. He couldn't be wrong after all. Nah. Nope. Never. :thefinger:)
 

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LOL, I'm an inspector and I'm NEVER wrong:innocent:

Thanks for the info.
 

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I've never heard or read of setting the lights with the high beams. All high/low beam headlamps are meant to be adjusted on the low beam setting only--the high beam adjustment is correct when the low beam adjustment is correct. If you are experiencing a problem where setting the low beams correctly places the high beams too high, but setting the high beams correctly places the low beams too low, you are dealing with a poorly-designed headlamp.

Aim height is dependent on lamp axis height. See below.
This is based on the standard 25' distance from the wall.
Left measurement represents lamp axis height
Right measurement represents how much to drop the beam.

ECE (European E-code) headlamps
Lamp axis height Distance to measure downward
Up to 34.5" (80 cm) 3" (76 mm)
35" to 39" (89-99 cm) 4" (102 mm)
39.5" or higher (100 cm) 4.5" (114 mm)

US DOT headlamps marked VOL
Up to 34.5" (80 cm) 2.1" (53 mm)
35" to 39" (89-99 cm) 3" (76 mm)
39.5" or higher (100 cm) 3.5" (89 mm)

US DOT headlamps marked VOR,
and mechanical aim low or high/low beam lamps
Up to 34.5" (80 cm) N/A, do not measure downward
35" to 39" (89-99 cm) 2" (50 mm)
39.5" or higher (100 cm) 3" (76 mm)

US DOT headlamps marked VO,
Mechanical-aim high-beam-only lamps,
and Driving (auxiliary high beam) lamps
Any mount height (80cm) N/A, do not measure downward

Fog lamps
Up to 18" (46 cm) 1.5" (38 mm)
18.5" to 28" (47-71 cm) 3" (76 mm)
28.5" or higher (72 cm) 4" (102 mm)

Oh, and don't forget to prep right. To prepare for aiming, the car should have at least 1/2 tank of fuel, weight in the trunk equal to the most frequently carried load (this may be a full trunk, or it may be an empty one, or anything in between), and weight in the driver's seat equivalent to the most frequent driver. All of the tires should be checked when cold to make sure they're at the correct inflation pressure. Jounce each corner of the car firmly (grasp the bumper and push down several times rhythmically) to ensure that the suspension is settled into a normal position.

Can someone explain the above in english?

What designation are the stock JK lights?

When you measure distance from wall, I'm assuming 25' from lamp face to wall face?

Thanks!!!
 

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I found some info somewhere that says to park 25' from a wall on level ground and put a piece of tape 3' up on the wall and adjust your low beams to the tape. Done.
I do not get anyone flashing me after my lift now. Seems to work.
 

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Lot of that there measuring stuff going on, why not old school? Pull up to wall close as possible, mark low beam with a + for both sides, back up 25 foot and adjust to center on the + you just taped to the wall.
 

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Lot of that there measuring stuff going on, why not old school? Pull up to wall close as possible, mark low beam with a + for both sides, back up 25 foot and adjust to center on the + you just taped to the wall.
X2^^^
 

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I found some info somewhere that says to park 25' from a wall on level ground and put a piece of tape 3' up on the wall and adjust your low beams to the tape. Done.
I do not get anyone flashing me after my lift now. Seems to work.
So you say if I have a stock Jeep and my friend have a Jeep with a 6" lift and we both set our lights hight to 3' on the wall we should be good????

I don't think your method is even close to how you should do it at all!!! But that might just be me.
 

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I used John L's method above several months ago and have not been flashed once once. ~ 3" of lift, headlights seem to be spot on.
 
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