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Discussion Starter #63
Yeah they look like they don't line up perfectly. That's how the brackets were built. I may have to do some adjusting somewhere. I don't think it's as bad as it looks, the bend in the drag link gives an illusion that it is steeper than it really is
 

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Pull a string from bolt to bolt and they should be parallel, by the looks of those links they are not even close to that. Looks like the axle side should be at the bottom bolt or lower.

did the new frame side bracket drop the mounting position? Looks like it is way lower then where it should be.
 

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Bump Steer

I'm gonna have to agree with Dirtman. That bracket raised the track bar quite a bit. It looks like you might have issues with contacting the diff if you lower it into the bottom hole. Try to find a way to raise that drag link an equal amount, or I have seen some people get a lower pitman arm, when they raise the track bar that high, accompanied by a drag link flip (i'm guessing you were gonna do a different DL anyway). Just like Dirtman said though, tie you a string bolt hole to bolt hole on DL and TB, then work out a way to get those strings as parallel as possible while preventing contact on your axle.

edit: Very nice build, really liking how you are coming along.
 

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I would avoid a drop pitman arm if possible. It will change the vector force applied to the sector shaft and not in a positive way.

How many degrees from parallel are the trackbar and drag link?
 

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Everyone always says the rule of thumb is to keep them parallel bolt to bolt. Problem is they are different lengths. I think the goal is to actually get the arcs the most similar while near ride height. I actually had to make mine about 5 degrees off to get rid of bump steer. That being said, I agree with dirtman that it looks like it needs a little tweaking.
 

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I would avoid a drop pitman arm if possible. It will change the vector force applied to the sector shaft and not in a positive way.

How many degrees from parallel are the trackbar and drag link?


Accompanied with hydro, I wouldn't have a second thought about running it.
 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
Accompanied with hydro, I wouldn't have a second thought about running it.
Good point. I agree, getting further away from the shaft bearings is not a good thing. Although, the hydraulic cylinder will take much of the load off the steering box.

Again, does anyone know how much drop they are? I could use only about 1/2-3/4" drop
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Everyone always says the rule of thumb is to keep them parallel bolt to bolt. Problem is they are different lengths. I think the goal is to actually get the arcs the most similar while near ride height. I actually had to make mine about 5 degrees off to get rid of bump steer. That being said, I agree with dirtman that it looks like it needs a little tweaking.
I noticed this as well. Depending on my ride height, they line up perfectly or they are off about an inch out at the drag link joint.

I have decided to redo the front suspension. There is not enough up travel with the ride height I want, so I will be changing a few things, one of them be moving the track bar down a hole at the axle and cutting off the top of the bracket.
 

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You typically see about 2" of drop on the JK drop pitman arms but you may be able to find other vehicles that have more drop then the factory JK arm.

The drag link and track bar should be parallel and as flat as possible at ride height to prevent bump steer. The fact that they are different lengths and move in different arc is not an issue with the length that they are. The shorter link moves in a tighter arc which is required when you droop one side of the axle since it rotates around a fixed point.
 

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Discussion Starter #73 (Edited)
Did a little changing up of the front end. Now have it like I want it and should be ready for welding out.



Ride Height







5.25" up travel after subracting for the spring cup

 

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Discussion Starter #74
After remeasuring the rear suspension mounting points with my laser, I went back to the calculator to see what I had and make adjustments.

I think this is the right photo with changes made. (Ignore Panhard Bar)



So this anchor has to go.



Needed to move the LCA frame mount up 2.50" so I drew up my own mount. Much happier with this.







 

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Discussion Starter #75
Been trying to figure out the rear coilover mounting. There must be a big difference in the frames on the earlier year model jk's cause the towers VKS sent me were way too short to mount the shock on top of the axle and even still too short to have the lower shock mounts at the bottom behind the axle.

I went ahead and drew up my own new shock towers.







 

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I would flip that drag link to the top of the knuckle, you still have the links in a X orientation.
The numbers look much better as well as the mounts. The higher you mount the upper mount on the shocks the more stable you will be. Don't skimp on the height of the tower.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
I would flip that drag link to the top of the knuckle, you still have the links in a X orientation.
The numbers look much better as well as the mounts. The higher you mount the upper mount on the shocks the more stable you will be. Don't skimp on the height of the tower.
The drag link and panhard bar are very close now. In fact, they are way more lined up than on my stock 2012 F-350.
It will not be changed anymore.
 
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