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Now, all that aside. This thing halls ass!

0-70 right now!

It’s a pain, you’ll start to wonder if you ruined your Jeep. If everything is stacked against you. Then knock the items off the list one by one and one day, it’ll do a burnout. At 30 mph.
 

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Oh man, not good to hear!
I don't really have any way of confirming what year mine is other than they told me it was a 2018. Are there any markings or numbers anywhere on it I can check? The engine/trans/t-case are all out of 1 unit at least.
I called Motech twice before buying it and they reassured me I could do it and they would help me with everything over the phone. He did suggest I go ahead and buy HPTuners.
What problems did you have with them?
I tried to avoid getting HP tuners, I didn’t want the expense just to turn off some lights - which is why Motech suggested it, but never told me what to do to turn off lights, and what lights to expect.

I used a remote tuner (guy) with an EFI live autocal. That didn’t work well, and most tuners will suggest to not mess with the Gen V engines in EFI live. So, had to get HP tuners anyway. I’m in just under $1,000 in tuning so far. Hopefully my tuner can get it setup right. About $175 of that was in licensing in EFI live, so you could easily avoid that. So far I have not licensed the Jeep computer to get into dash lights yet.

I suggest you power up the harness and read the computer at least to get the VIN. With the VIN you can figure out the year and with the year year you can make a plan.

Also look at the transmission computer. If it’s a t87 it’s pre 2017 and does not require a license credit. If it’s a t87a then it’s 2017+ and has to be sent to HP tuners to be unlocked and costs $200.

If the engine computer is 2016 or earlier it will require 2 credits ($100). If the engine computer is 2017+ it will require 4 HP tuners license credits ($200) license and is a more complex process to unlock. HP tuners will have to be connected to the internet and the computer the in order to unlock, but that’s just the first time.

My engine is a 2016 and wouldn’t make power. Motech said they have seen this problem before and sent me a file that is a 2015 operating system. That fixed it, but I also had to license that file for another $100. I don’t know if this is specific to 2016 or is a 2016+ issue.

These things add up quick. I didn’t plan to spend this much, and hopefully my learning curve can save someone some else money!
 

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Discussion Starter #263
I tried to avoid getting HP tuners, I didn’t want the expense just to turn off some lights - which is why Motech suggested it, but never told me what to do to turn off lights, and what lights to expect.

I used a remote tuner (guy) with an EFI live autocal. That didn’t work well, and most tuners will suggest to not mess with the Gen V engines in EFI live. So, had to get HP tuners anyway. I’m in just under $1,000 in tuning so far. Hopefully my tuner can get it setup right. About $175 of that was in licensing in EFI live, so you could easily avoid that. So far I have not licensed the Jeep computer to get into dash lights yet.

I suggest you power up the harness and read the computer at least to get the VIN. With the VIN you can figure out the year and with the year year you can make a plan.

Also look at the transmission computer. If it’s a t87 it’s pre 2017 and does not require a license credit. If it’s a t87a then it’s 2017+ and has to be sent to HP tuners to be unlocked and costs $200.

If the engine computer is 2016 or earlier it will require 2 credits ($100). If the engine computer is 2017+ it will require 4 HP tuners license credits ($200) license and is a more complex process to unlock. HP tuners will have to be connected to the internet and the computer the in order to unlock, but that’s just the first time.

My engine is a 2016 and wouldn’t make power. Motech said they have seen this problem before and sent me a file that is a 2015 operating system. That fixed it, but I also had to license that file for another $100. I don’t know if this is specific to 2016 or is a 2016+ issue.

These things add up quick. I didn’t plan to spend this much, and hopefully my learning curve can save someone some else money!
Damnit I haven't been getting notifications from this thread.

Ok I'll go grab my ECU and TCU and get some pics. I don't know how to power up the harness....maybe it's easy. There is a portion of my harness that is cut off. The seller said that was to the o2 sensors....

I have been reading and looking at the RPM Extreme guys this morning. They are within driving distance of me and that will probably be a big factor in who's install kit I use.

I hope I won't have to go through all those tuning issues like you did. Would be nice to have a well developed kit after all with so much going on in this..
 

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Discussion Starter #266 (Edited)
Haha, thank you but I already called Overland a week or so ago. He is in Louisiana like me. Unfortunately he does not do Gen V's either. Sounds like the best option for Gen IV's though.
 

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Discussion Starter #267
I can say that John at RPM Extreme really knows his shit. Great guy to deal with.
RPM Extreme told me over the phone today it would be 4-6 more months before they're ready to release their Gen V kits to the public. They did quote me 18k to install my engine for me though
 

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Discussion Starter #268
Pulled the passenger seat sub/box out and got this 12" Rockford powered package. Ordered OEM parts to delete the OEM Alpine sub and trim as well that should be here this week so I will gain a little trunk space back.
 

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RPM Extreme told me over the phone today it would be 4-6 more months before they're ready to release their Gen V kits to the public. They did quote me 18k to install my engine for me though
soooo you already have the motor/tranny, and just to install it is another 18k? did i read that correctly
 

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Discussion Starter #270
soooo you already have the motor/tranny, and just to install it is another 18k? did i read that correctly
Lol, exactly. I figure based on there Gen4 kits, the Gen5 should be no more than 8k, so that leaves 10k in shop labor??
 

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Lol, exactly. I figure based on there Gen4 kits, the Gen5 should be no more than 8k, so that leaves 10k in shop labor??
lol i guess so?? why is this stuff not going down like the tj parts did...i'm about to the point where we will just have to rip out all the wiring and do it old school
 

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Discussion Starter #272
Air tank and horn mounting I was doing the other day didn't work out so I drew this new bracket up and just got it ready.
Will hold both the 2.5 gallon tank and 37" Tug horn under the jeep and bolts to the frame using OEM threaded bungs.

 

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Discussion Starter #274
The above bracket didn't work out like I planned so I still don't have the air tank and horn mounted .
Anyways, decided to use an ARB twin compressor instead of the York since it will likely not work with the future engine swap.

After reading about these compressors and their potential problems, I went ahead and took care of the connectors that are prone to burning up at the motors. I had plenty of these bullet connectors from RC crawler days that I soldered together to replace the ones that come on the compressor.

 

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Discussion Starter #275
Finally got this thing ready to go in.
It's a lot of shit packed in a small space under there now lol
 

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Just wanted to update you on my swap’s status.

I was able to speak with Robbie for a while and went through the issues I had going on. He was able to walk me through it and get a lot of stuff sorted out.

I will say that HP tuners is a necessity to get the dash lights shut off and to get the tap shifting to work. It was also an additional $100 to license the Jeep computers. Robbie told me that the 2015+ Jeep computers are also encrypted and those will cost more to license (like GM 2017+).

I now have the cooling fan working correctly, tap shift, shifter is in the right location for the most part (PRNDM).

Just for fun, I put it in 4wd and took off down the street. It accelerated harder and shifted harder than before. I guess I didn’t realize the wheel spin in 2wd.

I wouldn’t cancel out using a Motech kit, but just know that it can be more involved than you think. In the end (if there is an end) it’s worth all the headache.


I’m available to pass off any knowledge I have gained through the process.
 

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Discussion Starter #277
Just wanted to update you on my swap’s status.

I was able to speak with Robbie for a while and went through the issues I had going on. He was able to walk me through it and get a lot of stuff sorted out.

I will say that HP tuners is a necessity to get the dash lights shut off and to get the tap shifting to work. It was also an additional $100 to license the Jeep computers. Robbie told me that the 2015+ Jeep computers are also encrypted and those will cost more to license (like GM 2017+).

I now have the cooling fan working correctly, tap shift, shifter is in the right location for the most part (PRNDM).

Just for fun, I put it in 4wd and took off down the street. It accelerated harder and shifted harder than before. I guess I didn’t realize the wheel spin in 2wd.

I wouldn’t cancel out using a Motech kit, but just know that it can be more involved than you think. In the end (if there is an end) it’s worth all the headache.


I’m available to pass off any knowledge I have gained through the process.
Oh that's great to hear buddy! Thanks for sharing your progress. I'll keep them in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #278 (Edited)
Got a new battery in, thanks to some threads I found on here.
It's longer than the stock size, but I think the box was made for it! There's this little clip that pops out and expands how big of a battery that will fit. I was planning on having to do some grinding away of some of the plastic, but it all went in worry free.
She gained another 20lbs tho

NORTHSTAR Pure Lead Automotive Group 94R (L4) Battery NSB-AGM94R https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCRAAID/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kPC9Cb53PKERT
 

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Discussion Starter #279 (Edited)
Got a rear Anti-Rock in for the next challenge.



Won't be able to bolt it up like the kit is meant to be because of the coil overs, bump stops, and the storage box. I hope there is even room in there beside the tires to fit the arms!?



There are 2 potential places I'm looking at mounting it.

First is the easiest, under the frame in the rear. Do y'all think this would be a problem for getting hit on anything down here?
It's pretty much in line with the back of the tire....





The other place I MIGHT be able to squeeze it is in this little gap between the body, frame, and fuel tank in front of the axle.

 
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