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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking at a couple of different of models and just wanted to make sure I had my ducks in a row before pulling the trigger. I am only looking at 2 door rigs because I get a better price break on them. I am currently looking at a Willy's Wheeler model and a pretty base Sport model. The Willy's has 3.73's and the base has 3.21's, both with automatics. I figure that when I do a lift and 35's that I am going to want to do 4.10's or 4.56's anyway so is there a reason to spend the extra $3k for the rock rails, better shocks, better tires that the Willy's model has. Also, both of the rigs I am looking at have the Track Lock lockers in the rear diff so if I go to 4.10's or 4.56's will I need a different carrier with the 3.21's or 3.73's.
 

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You can option the 3.73 gears on the Sport model. 35's on 3.73 gears and the auto is livable for a while. The Trac-Loc is a clutch type limited slip diff and NOT a locker. It also wears quickly if you really use it and becomes useless. You are better off getting the open diffs and adding a better traction device - a real locker (selectable or auto) or a torsen type limited slip diff that doesn't have clutches to wear out. Before I purchased my 2015, I was choosing between the Willy's Wheeler W and the Sport S. The deal breaker was the Wheeler W came with the Trac-Lok. I'm not spending money on a part that will get replaced in short order.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Will the carrier for the 3.21's work with 4.10's.
 

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The Trac-Loc is a clutch type limited slip diff and NOT a locker. It also wears quickly if you really use it and becomes useless.
I see this a lot. Not sure how accurate it is. People regurgitate this type of stuff often with no real experience, typically. Mine works great. But I also have low miles still. I do use it a lot though.
 

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I see this a lot. Not sure how accurate it is. People regurgitate this type of stuff often with no real experience, typically. Mine works great. But I also have low miles still. I do use it a lot though.
Seen it first hand. My brother-in-law's 2013 JKU Trac-Lok was toast at 42,000 miles. If you wheel where one of the rear tires gets lifted and stay on the gas, it doesn't take long to burn it up. Having to add the traction additive to the gear oil is also a PITA. I wish Jeep would go to a torsen type LSD.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am leaning toward a white 2015 Wrangler Sport S 24S package with auto, trac-lok, freedom hard top. After my discount through work its going to be about $28,750. I am also looking at a 3.5" Rough County lift with the lca's, n2.0 shocks, Yukon 4.10 gears, Yukon Grizzly locker for the rear, 33x12.50x15 Pro Comp Xtreme AT tires, some sort of aftermarket wheels, still looking at them. Planning on buying the Jeep now and then when I get my bonus from work in July doing all of the upgrades.
 

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Other members can chime in, but 33's will look silly on a 3.5" lift in my opinion. You will net closer to 4" of lift and have to address possible front drive shaft angle issues. You can clear 33's with a 1" spacer lift.
 

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I see no reason not to add the 3.73 gears. IIRC, you get a bigger carrier. So, when you go with 4.10s, you're only buying gears.
Besides, your first mod is likely to be the wheels and tires, so why not get some gearing?

My 24S is driving around on 315/70s (mathematically, 34.4"; actual, 33.5") with 3.73 gears and a manual trans. It's fine on the street. If I need it geared lower offroad, I go 4Lo.
4.56s are in the works but all the other stuff goes on first cuz the 3.73s aren't holding me back.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The Willy's with the 3.73s is $3k higher and I really don't think it is worth it when I will be replacing all of the different options that it comes with from the Sport S. As far the lift I was really wanting one that replaced the lca's. I guess I could do the 2.5" kit with springs and then the optional 2.2 shocks.
 

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I love that they brought back the Willyz, they should have made the Willyz models with a friendly way to fold the windshield forward!
 

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The Willy's with the 3.73s is $3k higher...
Oh, so "looking at a couple different models" meant they're sitting on someones's floorplan.

I meant, order the gears on whatever you get. You'll save another grand, maybe, by placing an order. It's considered a "Sold Order" and the dealer will have nothing in it to recoup.
MSRP on mine, if I found one optioned like I wanted, was $27,770.
I placed an order to get exactly what I wanted and it was $1000 cheaper.
You'll have to wait for them to build it, but...
 

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Its kinda dumb to buy a brand new vehicle then start modding it. If you are financing it makes even less sense. I see 2012 Rubi's selling in the low 30's.
Lots of modded late model jeeps for sale as well in the sale sections of the forums.
 

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If I had known what a pain in the ass the computers were on the JK, I woulda started with a bare frame to throw mod money at.
 

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Its kinda dumb to buy a brand new vehicle then start modding it. If you are financing it makes even less sense. I see 2012 Rubi's selling in the low 30's.
Lots of modded late model jeeps for sale as well in the sale sections of the forums.
I'll throw in some common sense where it was left out in that statement. Financing at 1.7% isn't financing at all - that is practically a free loan.

Starting with a new rig, you know the history. 2012's had head issues where some were replaced and some weren't. 2013's did as well. But, that doesn't mean I wouldn't buy used, but prefer new. Just depends on how much coin you have.

If you only plan on running 35's, you should consider a Rubicon with 4.10's - especially with a 2Door (i.e. real Jeep). If I stay with 35's, I'll never regear. Stupid to me is spending extra money on a 'sticker' edition like the Willy's.

Rubicon will have a better resale no matter how long you own it. You won't have to take $2k out of your pocket to upgrade gears on a brand new vehicle. You can sell the stock wheels/tires for $1k and recoup that money and put it towards 35's and wheels with the correct backspace that is needed. You also get the 4:1 transfer case with the Rubicon. Overall you get a much better Jeep to start with and don't have to shell as much out of pocket after the sale. My $.02.
 

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There is always the diesel Wrangler coming out in 2016
 

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I went through the same experience; I started looking at Rubis but wasn't spending $37,000+. I stepped down to Willys searching because I insisted on 3.73's/Max Tow. After realizing that Willys Jeeps were Sports with appearance mods, I bought a 2015 Sport S with Max Tow, Connex, Trak Lok, and Freedom Top. Price was right and I can definitely live with 35's on 3.73's; I did it in my 08 and I'll do it a lot easier in this Jeep.
 

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My first post here. After hanging around reading all of your posts here on the forum I ended up buying a new 2015 Rubi. Went with the 4 door because of the family but I too kicked around all the different model options. In the end I had the extra cash to go with the rubi. I figured I would want to mod it at some point and after looking and reading on the forum I decided the Rubi was best for me. My neighbor went the other way, they bought a 2 door sport and absolutely love it. In the end though, it's a tough decision but it's yours to make. Either way, your getting a jeep
 
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