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· Probably Stuck on my Diff
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

I have a 2011 JKU sport. I had just finished installing Synergy Balljoints, Truss, and gussets and was planning on staying with that set up running my 35's for a while. Well, as much as I liked the new axle beef, last Tuesday changed my plans. Sitting in traffic, an older woman didn't see me, and hit me head on doing 30 mph.. So much for all that work :suicide:

So now I am looking at a replacement housing. The insurance is covering the axle housing and is at around $4k. I have started looking at my options.

1. Dynatrac PR44 Unlimited housing, ARB, RCV, and 4.56 fully built, so I'm about $1400 short.

2. Teraflex housing with ARB, built is about the same +/- a couple 100..

3. Empty RockJock 60 with JK outers. Ran empty till I can afford the locker/gears (probably a good 3-4 months out, if not much more)

4. Rubi 44, but this seems to be the least practical option, since the e locker is $$$.

Questions are:

Will I be solid if I run 37's or 38's and later decide to do an LS swap or Supercharger?

If I go with the PR44, can I later add the 1-ton outers making it the 44/60 hybrid? I realize this would require replacing the inner C's which would mean sending it back to Dynatrac, or having it professionally done somehow.

If I do a front detroit, will I be hosed if I ever have to travel in snow in 4wd? I live in Tucson so its not a huge deal, but either is a $250 difference for a selectable.

Is it really worth spending $5k+ on a D44, if I'm that close to a 60?

Will a 60 be an anchor if I run 35's for a while?

Thanks in advance! Hopefully I will be ordering by the end of the day..
 

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Wow tough choices, Im no help but I wish you well in your dillemma.
 

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2018 JL Sport 2.0T. 40 spline Fusion d60's with Superkingpins. 40" Milestars on Raceline beadlocks.
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1. Dynatrac PR44 Unlimited housing, ARB, RCV, and 4.56 fully built, so I'm about $1400 short.
We run the Dynatrac in the front of our red shop jeep and it works great. If the $1400 is going to hold you back go with different shafts for time being. They are the easiest thing to replace. We have Superior axle shafts and the stock locker in ours and it works great with the 37's.

Best of luck on the rebuild.
 

· Probably Stuck on my Diff
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
We run the Dynatrac in the front of our red shop jeep and it works great. If the $1400 is going to hold you back go with different shafts for time being. They are the easiest thing to replace. We have Superior axle shafts and the stock locker in ours and it works great with the 37's.

Best of luck on the rebuild.
I was under the impression that the ARB would only work with the 35 spline RCVs... I was interested in chromoly with U-joints because of cost, but was told that is not an option.

I will have to go with the non-rubicon housing, because the lack of availability of the e-locker, and what they want to charge for one..

Glad the axle is working for you with 37s.. I wont be there for a long while, but want to make sure I at least have my bases covered if I'm going to be tossing down some coin.
 

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I vote Dynatrac or TF 44, but just to let you know. A complete Rubi 44 with 4.10 gears and Elocker, brake to brake, is only $3100 +/- delivery charges. All you would have to do is regear.

For my $4k (which I dont have right now) I would do a Prorock complete with everything you want and just add the locker later.
 

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2018 JL Sport 2.0T. 40 spline Fusion d60's with Superkingpins. 40" Milestars on Raceline beadlocks.
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I was under the impression that the ARB would only work with the 35 spline RCVs... I was interested in chromoly with U-joints because of cost, but was told that is not an option.

I will have to go with the non-rubicon housing, because the lack of availability of the e-locker, and what they want to charge for one..

Glad the axle is working for you with 37s.. I wont be there for a long while, but want to make sure I at least have my bases covered if I'm going to be tossing down some coin.
I forgot about doing the 35 spline upgrade. Rcv's are worth the money.
 

· Probably Stuck on my Diff
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I vote Dynatrac or TF 44, but just to let you know. A complete Rubi 44 with 4.10 gears and Elocker, brake to brake, is only $3100 +/- delivery charges. All you would have to do is regear.

For my $4k (which I dont have right now) I would do a Prorock complete with everything you want and just add the locker later.
Thats true, but I would also need the poly tb bracket welded on to accommodate my flip kit, gussets/truss, pp bjs, then regear. For all that work, I would rather run the empty PR44 housing and add the internals later on.. Not a bad option tho, and I will consider it if I'm way off on replacement.
 

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Thats true, but I would also need the poly tb bracket welded on to accommodate my flip kit, gussets/truss, pp bjs, then regear. For all that work, I would rather run the empty PR44 housing and add the internals later on.. Not a bad option tho, and I will consider it if I'm way off on replacement.
Poly makes a bolt on bracket for $100, that and a regear will get you running and wheeling.

What you WANT is poly BJs, gussets/truss, etc. They are nice to have but not needed initially. Dont get me wrong, I am not calling you out, just saying you can be up and wheeling on a 44 for under your 4k budget, then you can add as you go.

I still vote for a running PR 44 with no locker for under 4k then addind the locker later.
 

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I was under the impression that the ARB would only work with the 35 spline RCVs... I was interested in chromoly with U-joints because of cost, but was told that is not an option.

I will have to go with the non-rubicon housing, because the lack of availability of the e-locker, and what they want to charge for one..
Two different housings. The rubicon replacement pr44 housing uses all of the stock internals from a front rubicon d44. That housing will accept the 35sp ARB. The conventional pr44 housing will fit most conventional diffs. You are not locked in to 35sp.

To save a bit of money, you can go with new alloy inners and a pair of joints, and re-use the stock 32sp outers from your d30.

If you have the lift for it, the unlimited version (thicker tubes, caster corrected) version is great.

This is the route I went. PR44-U, 5.38's, ARB, 30sp alloy inners, joints, re-used stock 32sp outers/knuckles, and kept the new 'factory' bj's that it comes with.

Used the last of my budget to re-gear the rear to match the new 5.38's up front.

(RCV's and Reids and Poly/Dyna bj's, etc, would be nice, just didn't fit the budget at the time.)
 

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Call solid and see about have a dana 44 built for you. If you plan to run 37" or 38" tires in the future I would get one built that was 3"-4" wider then the stock axle to give you the clearance in the steering. Last time I checked their site I though you could get one built for around $5200 with an arb locker.

You could also look into the mopar powerwagon 9.25" crate axle that comes with an e-locker and 4.56 gearing. It is less then $4000 and is set up with larger brakes and a 4 link set up.

Either set up will require a different wheel though.
 

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Man tough choices. Check this out for now if ya have time;

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85575

Could be a good option and remember, we can always redo all the weld on stuff later down the road.

The PR44 is a nice front end but I think you might be able to find a used D44 and build it back up similar to what you had before the accident and save lots of money. Guess it ultimately depends on where you want to be when you are all finished with your build. Whatever choice helps you get there with as little backtracking as possible would be the way I would go if you are able.
 

· Probably Stuck on my Diff
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Two different housings. The rubicon replacement pr44 housing uses all of the stock internals from a front rubicon d44. That housing will accept the 35sp ARB . The conventional pr44 housing will fit most conventional diffs. You are not locked in to 35sp.

To save a bit of money, you can go with new alloy inners and a pair of joints, and re-use the stock 32sp outers from your d30.

If you have the lift for it, the unlimited version (thicker tubes, caster corrected) version is great.

This is the route I went. PR44-U, 5.38's, ARB, 30sp alloy inners, joints, re-used stock 32sp outers/knuckles, and kept the new 'factory' bj's that it comes with.

Used the last of my budget to re-gear the rear to match the new 5.38's up front.

(RCV's and Reids and Poly/Dyna bj's, etc, would be nice, just didn't fit the budget at the time.)
So did you go with the Rubi or non rubi PR?

I'm getting confused here, from a vendor I was told if I run the ARB in the Non rubi PR, then my only options were a 35 spline ARB (or detroit) and it only will accept 35 spline RCV.. not even chromoly will work..

So far, I know I will get the unlimited housing or one with castor correction (if I go TF). I run a 3.5 RK lift.

So if I get a non-rubi D44 PR, am I running a JK D44 gear set? Or is it like a standard 44 gear set instead? I realize they will both be HP, but is there any difference in strength or parts as far as the ring and pinion are concerned?

If I get a Rubi PR44, I can get it with the unlimited option, assuming that includes the castor correction and the .5 wall tube. If I go this route, I should be able to run a 30 spline ARB with chromoly shafts correct?


I really wanted to get a better estimate from the repair company today, but it still has yet to really be looked at. Hopefully I can get an idea soon of how much I can play with so I can make a solid decision.

Thanks for all your input as well!!!
 

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So did you go with the Rubi or non rubi PR?

I'm getting confused here, from a vendor I was told if I run the ARB in the Non rubi PR, then my only options were a 35 spline ARB (or detroit) and it only will accept 35 spline RCV.. not even chromoly will work..

So far, I know I will get the unlimited housing or one with castor correction (if I go TF). I run a 3.5 RK lift.

So if I get a non-rubi D44 PR, am I running a JK D44 gear set? Or is it like a standard 44 gear set instead? I realize they will both be HP, but is there any difference in strength or parts as far as the ring and pinion are concerned?

If I get a Rubi PR44, I can get it with the unlimited option, assuming that includes the castor correction and the .5 wall tube. If I go this route, I should be able to run a 30 spline ARB with chromoly shafts correct?
The PR center section comes in 2 designs, one for the factory locker and one for conventional lockers. If you buy one that is designed for a factory locker and decide to use an ARB, a specific ARB model (RD157) is required. It requires 35 spline shafts. Do not confuse these 35 spline shafts with what is used in a 60. The RCV shafts that are used are only the 1.5" 35 sp diameter for about the inner most 5". The balance is the same diameter as a std 30 spline. There is no appreciable increase in strength over a 30 RCV shaft.

If you choose a PR44 designed for a conventional locker, you'll use a RD117. It has 30 spline side gears. You can use common chromoly shafts or RCVs.

The 44/60 hybrid axle uses the same conventional housing but uses a RD147 35 spline unit. This ARB will not fit in a housing designed for a factory locker. Full 35 spline shafts with 60 size wheel ends are used.

When considering your choices for the various axles, keep in mind the added caster of the Unlimited is a vast improvement over a stock Rubi axle. Our customers frequently report that their lifted rigs now drive better than they did before they were lifted. The added caster really helps the steering stability. If you were to compare the stock Rubi housing to the PR housing, you'll find there are vast differences in clearance, quality and strength.

Surprisingly, your situation is pretty common. We frequently sell PR44s to customers that are repairing crash damage. It's a relatively painless (hopefully :th_pray:) way to get a high quality assembly.
 

· Probably Stuck on my Diff
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The PR center section comes in 2 designs, one for the factory locker and one for conventional lockers. If you buy one that is designed for a factory locker and decide to use an ARB, a specific ARB model (RD157) is required. It requires 35 spline shafts. Do not confuse these 35 spline shafts with what is used in a 60. The RCV shafts that are used are only the 1.5" 35 sp diameter for about the inner most 5". The balance is the same diameter as a std 30 spline. There is no appreciable increase in strength over a 30 RCV shaft.

If you choose a PR44 designed for a conventional locker, you'll use a RD117. It has 30 spline side gears. You can use common chromoly shafts or RCVs.

The 44/60 hybrid axle uses the same conventional housing but uses a RD147 35 spline unit. This ARB will not fit in a housing designed for a factory locker. Full 35 spline shafts with 60 size wheel ends are used.

When considering your choices for the various axles, keep in mind the added caster of the Unlimited is a vast improvement over a stock Rubi axle. Our customers frequently report that their lifted rigs now drive better than they did before they were lifted. The added caster really helps the steering stability. If you were to compare the stock Rubi housing to the PR housing, you'll find there are vast differences in clearance, quality and strength.

Surprisingly, your situation is pretty common. We frequently sell PR44s to customers that are repairing crash damage. It's a relatively painless (hopefully :th_pray:) way to get a high quality assembly.
Okay thank you for the clarification, it was very helpful!!

So far the most painful thing has been driving this rental KIA around lol..
 

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If you choose a PR44 designed for a conventional locker, you'll use a RD117. It has 30 spline side gears. You can use common chromoly shafts or RCVs.
I Will add to what scott said.

Just to be clear a stock set of chromoly axles will not fit with a pro rock and a ARB. You have to use Custom Length inners.

I personally dont think the 35 spline front is worth it either.

David
 

· Probably Stuck on my Diff
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I Will add to what scott said.

Just to be clear a stock set of chromoly axles will not fit with a pro rock and a ARB. You have to use Custom Length inners.

I personally dont think the 35 spline front is worth it either.

David
Okay thanks for your input as well, I actually will be ordering it from you haha.

So are you recommending the 30sp ARB?

Also talking to a sales rep, I was told with 4.56's and the poly raised track bar bracket already welded on a PR would be 4-5 days, what is the wait on the Teraflex 44 housing? Around the same? Do you guys now carry the new one with the raised track bar bracket?
 

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Another option is to use an OX locker and pick up some stock rubi axle shafts for now. I think there is some in the for sale section for $200. Then later on down the road you could up to the RCV's.
 

· Probably Stuck on my Diff
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Another option is to use an OX locker and pick up some stock rubi axle shafts for now. I think there is some in the for sale section for $200. Then later on down the road you could up to the RCV's.
Oh man, I've always wanted an OX, since I really like the idea of a cable actuated design. Thanks for the idea!
 
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