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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, here's the Powerplant in cab winch controls write up I promised.
I could find no way to get to the wires, the contactor is a sealed unit.
I even called Warn and talked to a lab guy, he didn't recommend even trying to do this (for safety)
HA, if I wanted to stay safe I wouldn't wheel!!
Anyway, I figured out how to make a mating plug so the winch sees the in cab controls as another remote.
I had thought of getting another remote to mess with, but at almost 80 bucks I passed.
I also found out from Warn that individual remote parts are not available.
So if you run over your remote head, it'll cost ya.

A quick function run down of the main parts:

The hollow rubber is for the plug body. The Garolite is to hold the pins in place.
The .070 rubber is to seal the Garolite from the elements, and to add cushion.
The brass rod is for the pins.
The 870B is to fill the upper body cavity for waterproofing

Materials needed:

From McMaster-Carr:

1 each 1520T23 Medium-strength Neoprene Rubber, Hollow, 1-1/4" Square, 5/8" Id, 6" Length
1 each 8667K112 Grade G-10/fr4 Garolite Sheet, 1/16" Thick, 6" X 6"

From my local hardware store:

.070 cloth reinforced rubber sheet (I had this left over from a previous project). Get enough to make several mistakes.
.063 brass rod, at least one foot

From my workplace:

50 gram kit of PS 870B-1/2
This is hard to come by unless you work in aerospace, it's a fuel tank sealer.
Any type of NON-CONDUCTIVE two part flexible epoxy/rubber should work.
A small syringe, less the needle.

From the 12voltguy:

Powerplant schematic
Appropriate length of 6 conductor cable

From OTRATTW:

1 each VVASCWC-100 Contura II Winch rocker, red
1 each VVANCAT-100 Contura II H/H rocker, red
1 each VVASC9A-CP1 Contura II Compressor rocker, red
2 each V1DAF66B-00000-000 V-series sealed rocker switch, SPST
1 each VLD1A60B-00000-000 V-series sealed rocker switch, DPDT (ON)OFF(ON) (momentary position)

What I made:

Dimensioned drawing of the pin pattern and inside of the body, available on request in either .dxf format or a .jpg.

Tools needed

Band saw
Scroll saw
drill press
1/16" drill
11/32" drill (or suitable size to ensure a good plug body to cable seal)
7/8" Unibit, modified to cut up to 3/4 only
Belt sander or lots of patience hand sanding
Laser-I know that not everyone has one or has access to one, but it was very handy with cutting the .070 rubber.
Unfortunately, we could not find the right setting for Garolite, so it would not cut it.
It did, however, make a nice deep scribe lines which was great for drilling and periphery shaping.
Soldering iron
solder
Side cutters

I won't go into great detail here, if you can work with your hands and have reasonable fab skills you should have no problem following along.

First, cut the square rubber stock to 1.250" then drill the 11/32" cable hole about .250 from one edge and centered on one of the flat surfaces.

Now run the modified Unibit through the existing 5/8" hole. Take your time with this operation. be sure to get the thru hole .750.

Using the scroll saw, cut two corners into the .750 hole, making a "D" shaped hole. Take your time with this as well, don't go to big or the plug won't seal to the winch receptacle.

Now you can give the part the basic shape of the stock plug with the belt sander. Again, take your time. Test fit as needed on the winch. The left side of the plug body has to clear a piece on the winch, I took just enough off so it would fit and left the rest of the body a little thicker. That's why it looks a little lop-sided.

Here's what you should end up with.







Here's the modified Unibit.



The .070 rubber after lasering. Doing it manually will be tricky, making small holes in rubber is tough. The good news is the outer shape is easy with scissors. For the holes you could probably heat up the brass rod and pierce them through.



Plug body and .070 rubber piece.



Top to bottom, what you start with, what you end up with, .070 rubber piece.





The Garolite piece is exactly like the .070 rubber piece. You can use the same drawing dimensions.
It's easy to sand and drill, just take your time. More than about .010 off the pattern and the pins will have trouble going into the winch socket. Use the 1/16" drill for the pin holes.

The pins are cut to about .850 and chamfered on one end. This will help when you tap them into the Garolite and also when plugging into the winch socket.



Pins started into the Garolite.



Continued next post....
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Put an appropriate flat tool in the drill press (I used a cutter) and press the Garolite in the center. Position the part so the cut ends are on the drill press table. All the pins will slide together as you press down.



Press until the top end of the pins are about .600 from the surface of the Garolite.



Now put the .070 rubber on from the rounded pin side, flip the piece over and while keeping the part level press in the opposite direction until the rounded ends of the pins are .500 from the surface of the .070 rubber. This is semi-critical, as the winch socket recepts are only .625 deep. The .500 keeps the brass pins from bottoming out in the winch recepts.

This step may sound complicated, but you will essentially be pushing the pins past where they need to go, then adding the rubber(for measurement purposes) and pushing the opposite way to get the right dimension.

Here's what it will look like when done.



Time for a test fit.







Now it's time to put it together. Push about a foot of the wire through the cable hole in the plug body from the outside to the interior of the plug body.
Strip about .500 off the cable jacket and .25 from each of the six conductors.
Solder each of the six wires to the pins after you take the .070 rubber off. Solder to the short side of the pins. Take care to orient the shape of the Garolite to the shape of the plug body, or it will be difficult to align when assembling. Them make note of what color wire you have going to each pin for later reference. You have to be able to positively identify each wire on the plug when doing the final wiring, so make sure you are accurate.





Time to test.

On the other end of the cable, strip off about 3" of jacket and .250 off the wires.

Make sure that this end of the cable has no shorted wires. Failure to do this may cause the winch to operate unexpectedly. Be careful here!! Keep them separated while doing this test, or damage may result.

Take the plug/wire assy to the winch and plug it in. Now work the plug body down to it's seated position while gently pulling on the cable. This will help seat everything.
Once everything is in it's place, you can now test the operation of the winch by temporarily connecting the wires on the other side of the cable after refering to the winch schematic and the notes you took earlier.

If everything went well, it's time to seal up the body from the elements. Mix up your rubber and put some into the syringe. Put the end of the syringe as deep as you can into the plug body and inject the rubber from the bottom up. This will ensure no voids. Fill to slightly above the top of the body. Let it set for a few hours and carfully remove the plug from the winch. Allow to cure.

Here's what it looks like.



I won't get into the cable routing or switch connections, as your switch selection may be different than mine. Just follow the winch schematic and you'll be OK.

Note-I chose the DPDT with a single lamp, which takes the place of the overheat led and resistor. If you use this same switch, don't worry about polarity or the resistor.

Note-before the function test I mixed the rubber and placed a small amount between the .070 rubber and the Garolite for sealing purposes. Be sure to get a small amount of squeeze-out.

That's about it, mine is curing out right now, I should be able to get the switches wired this weekend.
 

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Very nice!

I would love one of these, But i have ZERO tools and little mechanical inclination.

Would you be willing to make this setup for a modest fee? I would certainly be interested!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Very nice!

I would love one of these, But i have ZERO tools and little mechanical inclination.

Would you be willing to make this setup for a modest fee? I would certainly be interested!
I wouldn't mind making a few of these up, I guess it depends on if we can do this on the board, seeing as how I'm not a registered vendor.
I could supply the plug and wire, it would be up to the user to get switches and other stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Dude you have some cool tools. Nice work.

Ron
I may have been a bit misleading, sorry about that.
I have everything but the laser, but I do have access to it here at work on the weekends. It is sweet, though, it's a small one (think large printer). I think it was about 10k turn key. A person could almost make a living off it.
 

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I wouldn't mind making a few of these up, I guess it depends on if we can do this on the board, seeing as how I'm not a registered vendor.
I could supply the plug and wire, it would be up to the user to get switches and other stuff.
John, I don't think anyone on this board will have an issue with this limited edition garage product that none of the other vendors currently offer. I will double check with Lance but I can see no immediate problem with this.

Mod hat off.

Now why didn't Warn just come up with something like this? I really don't like having to install the remote just to air up so an in cab control would be nice. On my 8000 in the Isuzu I have control on the bumper and in the cab as well as the remote head.

Secondly, where do I sign up for one!

Good job as ALWAYS John!
 

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i have a powerplan and wish i had this. able to control it from inside would be great and one less thing to lug around on the trail.

where are you planning to mount the control and is there a place to run the cable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
John, I don't think anyone on this board will have an issue with this limited edition garage product that none of the other vendors currently offer. I will double check with Lance but I can see no immediate problem with this.

Mod hat off.

Now why didn't Warn just come up with something like this? I really don't like having to install the remote just to air up so an in cab control would be nice. On my 8000 in the Isuzu I have control on the bumper and in the cab as well as the remote head.

Secondly, where do I sign up for one!

Good job as ALWAYS John!
Thanks for the props, Michael. Let me know what Lance says, if it's a go I'll gear up to make some for you guys. I'm not sure about price yet, I'll have to do some pencil scratchin' when I get home.

In the mean time, I guess who ever would like one can let me know through this thread. So far on the list is Big A and you, Michael.

Thanks for the opportunity to help out the Powerplant guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i have a powerplan and wish i had this. able to control it from inside would be great and one less thing to lug around on the trail.

where are you planning to mount the control and is there a place to run the cable?
I have the Daystar lower panel that the switches will mount in. There is a small hole in the upper firewall on either side to run the cable through.
There are a couple of threads on this, I think the latest was something like "where to run wires through the firewall", or something similar.
If you'd like one of these, let me know and I'll put you down for one. This is, of course, pending a decision from Lance.
 

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John, do you think they might've used a standard sized pin arrangement? The reason I ask is that the first second I saw this, I thought - that connector looks an awful lot like a hirose connector to me, and then I jumped over to digikey, and found what I was thinking of (p/n SR30-10PE-6P(74) from hirose, HR1718-ND from digikey) -- here's the datasheet - do their dimensions and yours match? http://www.hirose.co.jp/cataloge_hp/e10303014.pdf

!c
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
John, do you think they might've used a standard sized pin arrangement? The reason I ask is that the first second I saw this, I thought - that connector looks an awful lot like a hirose connector to me, and then I jumped over to digikey, and found what I was thinking of (p/n SR30-10PE-6P(74) from hirose, HR1718-ND from digikey) -- here's the datasheet - do their dimensions and yours match? http://www.hirose.co.jp/cataloge_hp/e10303014.pdf

!c
That's the same layout, but the winch connector is much larger. For example, the 1.73mm measurement they have is 9.80mm on mine. I believe it is a proprietary pattern. Shoot, even the winch remote cable has Warn printed on it!!

Here's the pin layout....
 

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I am all over this! :beer:

I have a friend who runs a machine shop/injection molding. Would that make things easier?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am all over this! :beer:

I have a friend who runs a machine shop/injection molding. Would that make things easier?
Not sure, maybe if I was making 1,000:D I would think the tooling costs would be too expensive for just a few. What are his capabilities? He would have to have the pins and wire to do an injected molded plug....
 

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Ok, I think I found the part you're looking for. Unfortunately, the Hirose catalog page they refer to in the PDF document for pin spacing is completely missing (see page 60, eh?) - however, the diameter of the plug circle is the exact diameter to fit the female plug circle you have... That is, OD measurement is 11.8mm and the OD measurement of your female component is 11.33mm (0.446"). The P/N from Hirose is RM12WBP-6P digikey P/N is HR1799-ND.

It's very unlikely they made their own plugs, especially considering they chose a standard pin pattern. It would be infinitely cheaper just to order a bunch from a company like hirose in china and have them white-labelled. Even my "proprietary cable" for my nice DSLR power supply actually came from HiRose - it just took time to figure out which one =)

Does the winch remote cable have a bayonet lug on it?

Edit: also, is it polarized/keyed? I haven't seen a close-up of a powerplant connector, but there has to be a match either through hirose or amphenol.


!c
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok, I think I found the part you're looking for. Unfortunately, the Hirose catalog page they refer to in the PDF document for pin spacing is completely missing (see page 60, eh?) - however, the diameter of the plug circle is the exact diameter to fit the female plug circle you have... That is, OD measurement is 11.8mm and the OD measurement of your female component is 11.33mm (0.446"). The P/N from Hirose is RM12WBP-6P digikey P/N is HR1799-ND.

It's very unlikely they made their own plugs, especially considering they chose a standard pin pattern. It would be infinitely cheaper just to order a bunch from a company like hirose in china and have them white-labelled. Even my "proprietary cable" for my nice DSLR power supply actually came from HiRose - it just took time to figure out which one =)

Does the winch remote cable have a bayonet lug on it?

Edit: also, is it polarized/keyed? I haven't seen a close-up of a powerplant connector, but there has to be a match either through hirose or amphenol.


!c
That's cool that you found a mating plug, although I don't think it would work without modification. The winch plug has a "D" shape to it. There is no bayonet lug on it, it just pushes on, pulls off.

There is a key on the plug, see the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK, the official word is it's OK for now to do a few of these. I'll work up a price tonight. Meanwhile, post up if you want one.
 
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