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Discussion Starter #1
My dual battery setup has an "auto" feature that bridges the batts automatically, and then isolates them when the key is off. Keeping you from ever draining you starting battery with your accessory loads while parked.

Currently I have it wired to the accessory terminal in the fuse box. However, with this configuration, the batteries isolate from each other when the engine is cranking. They are supposed to be bridged when cranking, sort of a self jump-start feature.

Anyone know of an easy source to get power that is on in both the start and accessory key positions, but off when the key is off? Something that won't anger the CANBUS?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It powers the relay on my dual battery setup. In the old days, I'd look to the ignition coil circuit as it needed to have power both while the engine was running and while it was starting. Right now I'm tapped into the accessory fuse in the engine panel, but it switches off when the engine is starting. I'm looking for a source that stays on when cranking the engine as well as just the key "on" (so that both batteries are engaged for assist in starting, and charge when running normally) and then goes off when the key is "off" so that the batteries automatically isolate.

I need:

key switch off= relay open
key switch on=relay closed
key switch start= relay closed

what I have now (tapped into the accessory fuse):

key switch off= relay open
key switch on=relay closed
key switch start= relay open
 

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The RUN/START Relay sends power to fuses M15, M16, M33, and M37.
I am assuming RUN/START means it's energized even during the start sequence.



Look at the fuse map inside the TIPM cover and see if one of those positions is empty.
If not empty, see if there is room for a fuse tap.


What is the accessory terminal you have a wire connected to?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The RUN/START Relay sends power to fuses M15, M16, M33, and M37.
I am assuming RUN/START means it's energized even during the start sequence.



Look at the fuse map inside the TIPM cover and see if one of those positions is empty.
If not empty, see if there is room for a fuse tap.


What is the accessory terminal you have a wire connected to?
Thanks, I think this is what I was looking for. The one I'm using now is the one that powers the power outlets in the dash and at the rear sub-woofer. M7, I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
We have a winner. Thanks ronjenx, M37 (powers the fuel pump relay and some others) works like a charm.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What is your method of tapping the fuse?
One of these. I just moved it from where it was to the M37 position.I picked M37 because it was the first 20A one I found from those you listed, making the swap easier. (the tap I was using was already 20A)

 

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One of these. I just moved it from where it was to the M37 position.I picked M37 because it was the first 20A one I found from those you listed, making the swap easier. (the tap I was using was already 20A)

That's what I thought. I like them, but you have to have clearance for them.
 
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