[pluke the 2]

Metal Cloak Front Upper Shock Mount

http://www.metalcloak.com/6Pak-Front-Shock-Mount-Kit-JK-Wrangler-p/7021.htm

$79.00

Nemesis Front Lower Shock Relocater

http://www.nem-ind.com/catalog/jk/jk-suspension-parts/factory-dana-3044-front-lower-shock-mount

$89.00

Synergy Rear Long Travel Upper Shock Mount

http://www.synergysuspension.com/Sy...ar-Long-Travel-Upper-Shock-Mount-p-29226.html

$150.00

Fox 12" Travel 2.0" Smooth Body Emulsion Shock, 5/8" Shaft

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Fox-2.0-Smooth-Body-Emulsion-Shock-5-8-Shaft-p-639.html

$150.00 Ea.
Qty: 4 $600


Total: $918.00


Is this route more economical for the average wheeler looking to squeeze the most out of their suspension retaining stock mounts and not having to weld?

Wouldn't this get you the benefits like down travel and uptravel that a costly coilover system will run you?

you could run any type of shock to get you where you need to be depending on lift height.

 

[Goodysgotacuda]

Your still very far from comparing that setup to a coilover setup.

So what are you going to do about springs? Bump stops? Extended spring lengths so you don't unseat them?

IMO you need to figure out what your springs are going to let you get away with, tire clearances and the lift height you end up with before buying a hodge podge of mounts and random shock lengths. With lowering the upper shock mount over stock, you're going to need a tall spring to keep it useful with a 31" extended shock..You're shock will be able to do more than your springs will. Driving around with unseated springs on every obstacle won't help you much, it looks cool, but is very ineffective...you'll also need to bump stop it sooner to keep from killing it on compression.

Spending half that and having dialed in bump stops and shock mounts is going to be money much better spent than just throwing a few random parts on a rig. But it's not my money!

 

[pluke the 2]

i got 4.5" springs jku coils. which gave 5" of lift on my 2 door.

fully drooped, i got 3" of unusable coil to go before they unseat.

my current extended length on my shocks are 27"
so i could run a 31" shock, limit strap it at 30" extension, and still have no coil unseat.

now throw in the metal cloak top and nemesis lower shock mounts, regain the uptravel i lost by raising the top mount and regain the additional room on the lowers......

 

[Goodysgotacuda]

At full bump where is your shock at?


Sent via paper airplane

 

[pluke the 2]

At full bump where is your shock at?


Sent via paper airplane

1/2" from bottoming out the shock i'm at full bump


so 16" i'm at full bump with another 1/2" of shock left

 

[jaker]

Dude what do you think I did at me house that day using those MC mounts

 

[thedirtman]

Those mc brackets do not give you any more mounting height over the factory set up, by the looks of it you may actually loose some, they are meant to push the mount away from the tower so you can run the bulky 6 pack shock.

There is absolutely no comparison to coil overs with what you are describing.

You are not going to maximize a custom suspension set up with bolt on stuff, you really need to have the brackets mounted to the shock so you can squeeze every last bit of articulation from the system.

 

[Terminator2]

Metal Cloak Front Upper Shock Mount

http://www.metalcloak.com/6Pak-Front-Shock-Mount-Kit-JK-Wrangler-p/7021.htm

$79.00

Nemesis Front Lower Shock Relocater

http://www.nem-ind.com/catalog/jk/jk-suspension-parts/factory-dana-3044-front-lower-shock-mount

$89.00

Synergy Rear Long Travel Upper Shock Mount

http://www.synergysuspension.com/Sy...ar-Long-Travel-Upper-Shock-Mount-p-29226.html

$150.00

Fox 12" Travel 2.0" Smooth Body Emulsion Shock, 5/8" Shaft

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Fox-2.0-Smooth-Body-Emulsion-Shock-5-8-Shaft-p-639.html

$150.00 Ea.
Qty: 4 $600


Total: $918.00


Is this route more economical for the average wheeler looking to squeeze the most out of their suspension retaining stock mounts and not having to weld?

Wouldn't this get you the benefits like down travel and uptravel that a costly coilover system will run you?

you could run any type of shock to get you where you need to be depending on lift height.

Bringing this back from the dead because I have some thoughts to add. The issue I see with those shocks and overall setup is the collapsed length is very long for a given travel. A shock with a 19" collapsed length will require the front and rear upper mounts to be moved up at least 3-3.5" unless ~5-5.5" bumpstops are being run. Especially when bolting on a stem to eye adapter which lowers the upper mount about 1" and using the nemesis lowers which raise the lower 0.5". Both mount changes combined effectively makes the shock act like a 20.75" collapsed shock which would require ~5-5.5" bumpstops to stop over-compression.

The other concern is droop. Peak droop would be around 32.5" as configured which in front will require a ~25" long coil spring to keep any sprung weight on the axle at full droop, and I am not sure anyone makes JK front springs 25" long in a reasonable lift height as that is a full 8" longer than a stock front spring on a 2 door JK (6.75" longer than a typical 4 door front spring). The rear would not be so bad with the long travel upper mounts. You would need only a ~18.5" long rear spring to keep it seated at full droop (this is still a fairly long rear spring but most 3.5-4.0" springs are around 18.5" long) and ~2.5" bumpstops to keep the shocks happy. However this only applies if the factory lower mounts are left alone but who in their right mind wants those stock rock magnets to stay where they are? Not I!!! Cutting them and relocating them 3" up from stock was one of my first mods and while it gives incredible droop even out of a 26" extended length shock (droops like a 29" extended length shock) it makes them act like 18.4" collapsed shocks which requires 3.5-4" of bumpstop:nono:. Poly long travel rear uppers go on mine soon with 12.6" travel rear shocks (17.3" collapsed 29.9" extended and 2" more travel than I have now) but I still need 2.5-3.0" bumpstops in the rear because of the 3" lower relocate which kind of sucks as I would love to go down to a 1-1.5" bumpstop in the rear and still keep over 12" of travel but I love the extra ground clearance they give.

I looked long and hard at tons of long travel shocks in the 12.5-13.0" travel range and I honestly had a hard time finding any monotube (bilsteins) or emulsion shock with that length long travel and the ~17" collapsed length I need with 2" front bumpstops and stock upper and lower mounting locations. In fact, I could not find any. For the front, I ended up finding a shock meant for a YJ with 6" of front lift that is a stem upper mount and eye lower so it bolts right up with zero mods necessary (2" bumpstops if not already equipped). They are 13.1" travel front shocks with a very reasonable 17.3" collapsed length and 30.4" extended length. Before you get too excited though they are just cheap $30 twin tube hydro shocks though not exotic emulsion shocks. For me though hydro shocks are all I really need and want as I like a soft ride and I do mostly slow wheeling no high speed stuff offroad ever. In my opinion it is not worth that amout of fab work just to run a 12" travel shock. I would be will be doing some fab work on the upper shock towers though if and when I ever decide to step up to a 14.5-15" travel front shock in the future. My new springs are actually both long enough and short enough to be able to use all that travel without unseating badly or over compressing but I do not know if I honestly would ever need to use all that travel.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

I did this a long while ago, and 5.5/7 up front and 5/7.5 travel out back (up/down). Could sqeeze more out of the fronts of I relocated the y pipe to behind the tcase and went with a longer free length spring. 1gen RK 2.5s are pretty short compared to currie it metal cloak ones.