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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed my Poly Performances Synergy III lift kit. One word -- Fantastic! This included the rear shock relocation kit. Unfortunately, the backspacing on my AEV Bridger wheels with 315/75/16 Goodyear MTR's is causing the rear swaybar to make contact with the tire. I have since reinstalled my slightly shorter TeraFlex rear sway bar links because they are shorter by about 2" and are also skinner at the upper mount. Giving me a little more clearance between the tire. At the present time I have moved the driverside upper swaybar to the inside for clearance. This is working on the street but I do not like the angles. So with that little introduction. Here are my questions/options. 1 - Wheel spacers. I am not really hip on this idea. 2 - remove the rear shock relocation brackets and reweld new tabs on. I would move the new tabs to a similar location but push them inboard to allow the rear lower swaybar to be mounted on the inside of the factory swaybar tab. 3 - Remove the rear swaybar all together. Has anyone done this. All thoughts and ideas appreciated. Thanks


Poly Performance rear shock mount relocation kit.


Poly rear shock mount relocation kit with TeraFlex rear swaybar. You will notice the upper mount is crossed over to the inside. If I install it on the outside it will make contact with the tire. AEV suggest moving the rear swaybar to the inside on both the top and bottom. Unfortunately with the shock relocation bracket this is not possible.


Close up of the Poly rear shock relocation bracket.
 
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I had the same problem and its AEV and their weird way of measuring backspace. I have a Poly Stage III lift, AEV Pintler wheels and 37x12.5x17 MTRs and had to use 1¼” spacers on the wheels to make them fit. I literally couldn’t fit my little finger between the tire and the upper control arms and the sway bar links wouldn’t fit at all. In a perfect world, if I could do it all over I’d have bought different wheels, but modern spacers are fine and require very little maintenance (other than checking the torque when you rotate the tires every 3 thousand miles).

Get some 1 1/4“ spacers for ~$200 (for the set), put them on and then stand back and admire how cool your Jeep looks with the new stance ;)

AEV really needs to start telling people that their “approximate” 4.7” backspace is more like 5.5” before someone gets hurt or they at minimum brake something on their Jeep. I gave up arguing with them and based on my customer service experience I’ll never purchase anything from them again. David Harrington their CEO is the most arrogant man I’ve dealt with in a long time! :pissed:
 

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As far as removing the swaybar goes, somebody on the other forum removed his and, playing around offroad a few days later, managed to roll (and total) his new Jeep. Probably just "pilot error" but based on his description of events, it seems that the lack of a rear swaybar may have been a contributing factor. Take it FWIW. :)
 

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I've been running shorter rear sway bar links (12.5") for some time and never had any issues with flex. Ideally the sway bar ends should be close to horizontal, but fortunately the rear sway is far less significant than the front and you can get away with shorter links, although that is not an ideal solution.

I don't think it would be too difficult to adapt the shock brackets so that you could mount the links on the inside. You'd just need to check for clearance at the top of them.

If there is clearance one side, but not the other, then either the sway bar is not centered, or the axle is over to one side slightly. Varying amounts of weight at the rear (bumper/spare/equipment/etc) will effect the ride height and therefore the axle position. An adjustable track bar may allow for enough centering so that you can have both links on the outside?

As to spacers, I understand why you wouldn't want to use them, but they would resolve the issue and give you a better balanced rig (go wide as you go high).
 
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To tell you the truth my fox shocks are set so firm I didn’t really notice a lot of difference when I put the links back on (drove it for a month or so with no links).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good info guys. I just stopped by my local 4 wheel shop and picked up some rear shock mount tabs. I am going to see if my local fabricator and I can come up with a new lower shock mount location that is slightly lower than Poly's and more inboard. This will hopefully allow me to put the rear swaybar on the inside of the original tab. Now I am just concerned that the heim joint on the Poly swaybars is going to be to deep to clear the frame rail on upward travel.
 
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