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Discussion Starter #1
I've been wanting a set of Poison Spyder hood louvers for a while now. Doing trail runs in southern Arizona sure heats up the engine compartment so I wanted to do something about it. A couple of months ago I was in an accident (a lady pulled out in front of me) so I figured it was a good time and I wanted to stick with my military theme too.

The instructions are very clear and they double as the template. The louver is packaged well but it took me a little while to find the bag of hardware, it was taped to the styrofoam insert. No, it doesn't come with the military star, I put that on myself, it comes either in black or bare metal.

The build:

  • Step 1 of the instructions call for me to remove the hood and place it on saw horses. I wanted to see how difficult it would be to work with it on the Jeep so I skipped that step.
  • I started out by removing the windshield bump stops and footman's loop. I set the louver in place to get an idea of how things would fit.
  • Next I covered the section I would be working with in masking tape. This way, I could write on it easier and there would be less chance of the drill bit or cutting wheel slipping.
  • I then put the louver back in place to line things up. When lining the louvers up, the instructions call for using the rubber bump stops. I wanted things to be more secure so I used a couple of large bolts.
  • I traced the outline and marked the screw holes. I found out later that marking the holes at this time was a waste of time.
  • Then, following the instructions, I taped the template in place and used a center punch on all the corner locations.
  • I drilled the corner holes and drew the lines connecting the holes. I also came up with the idea of roughly marking the cross member to get an idea where to be careful. You can see in the pic after I cut the sections out, I was quite a bit off on my cross member estimate.
  • The instructions called for to use a cut-off wheel but I don't have one but I found an angle grinder works just fine. As the instructions say, be careful when cutting above the cross member because you don't want to weaken the hood more than you already are with the holes. Next I scraped the glue material off and painted everything black but I forgot to take a picture of that, sorry.
  • After the paint dried, I set the louver in place with my alignment bolts again. I drilled holes in the four corners and installed screws per the instructions. After the screws were in, I drilled the remaining holes through the louvers and hood together. This is why I said earlier that marking the screw holes at the beginning was a waste of time.
 

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Congrats looks like a pretty clean install
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Congrats looks like a pretty clean install
Ya, thanks. :thankyou: It wasn't too hard, I took my time and followed the instructions. I took another member's advice (Uncle Sams Misguided Child) on the tape and I'm glad I did.
 

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JKO Dickhead
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Did you ruin your windshield in the process ?

I did mine while it was still on the Jeep and not paying attention made one of the cuts with the cutoff wheel sparking in the direction of the windshield.

Realized a few days later when I washed it what had happned...but few years later the same windgield is still on because its the pass side
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did you ruin your windshield in the process ?

I did mine while it was still on the Jeep and not paying attention made one of the cuts with the cutoff wheel sparking in the direction of the windshield.

Realized a few days later when I washed it what had happned...but few years later the same windgield is still on because its the pass side
Wow, sorry to hear about your windshield.

I started doing mine while on the Jeep but decided it was an easy removal so I pulled it off. I found the 4 torx screws on the hinges are the same as the ones for the door pins. I didn't have to cover the engine and it made it easier to reach each of the nuts for the louvers.
 

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JKO Dickhead
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noticed that it was off after looking at all the pics.. the custom touch is nice !
 

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So throw a blanket over the windshield if you don't take the hood off.
 

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Very nice! Thank you for posting, it was good timing for me as I've been considering this mod for some time too and think I'm about ready to pull the trigger on it. The process looks straight forward, but how long did it take you to complete everything?
 

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I'd love to see results before and after with hood and underhood temps and such.

I used my infrared heat gun to shoot the hood and under the hood. I used masking tape to tape off a 16 square (4x4) grid and after being at operating temp I shot each square and transferred it to paper. I did it at night so the sun wouldn't affect the outcome. Directly over the alternator gets hot. Shot stuff under the hood including my supercharger and more. From my project I found that this hood louver is actually smartly made and vents in the correct areas. A lot of stuff on the market is snake oil.

Only other area that could use the most venting is the back corner on both sides of the hood just above the fenders. This area, including the fender itself gets the hottest. The TOTL hood has vents in that area.
 

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rain getting down vent?? no worries???
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Very nice! Thank you for posting, it was good timing for me as I've been considering this mod for some time too and think I'm about ready to pull the trigger on it. The process looks straight forward, but how long did it take you to complete everything?
I'd love to see results before and after with hood and underhood temps and such.

I used my infrared heat gun to shoot the hood and under the hood. I used masking tape to tape off a 16 square (4x4) grid and after being at operating temp I shot each square and transferred it to paper. I did it at night so the sun wouldn't affect the outcome. Directly over the alternator gets hot. Shot stuff under the hood including my supercharger and more. From my project I found that this hood louver is actually smartly made and vents in the correct areas. A lot of stuff on the market is snake oil.

Only other area that could use the most venting is the back corner on both sides of the hood just above the fenders. This area, including the fender itself gets the hottest. The TOTL hood has vents in that area.
rain getting down vent?? no worries???
Sorry, I didn't get back to you guys sooner but as far as the questions go:
  • It took roughly 4 hours total and that time includes the painting after making the cuts.
  • I haven't had it on the trail to compare the temps (since that's where it is most noticeable) but around town with the local temps around 107 it does seem cooler under there when I pop the hood. The internal engine temp is unaffected, which is good.
  • As far as the water goes, I haven't driven in the rain yet but I'm not worried. Several time fording creeks has gotten lots of water throughout the engine compartment so a little from the top down shouldn't be a problem.
 
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