JKOwners Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Heat'n and a beat'n...
Joined
·
3,943 Posts
You will probably need some type of puller. Mine was a pain in the ass to pull off. I used a shitty pitman arm puller, several hammers, and a torch. It came off. It goes back on much easier.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,063 Posts
Do i need a ball joint press to change my pitman arm out? Also what brand/kit ball joint press ya'll use for all your ball joint needs?
I used the cheap harbor freight one and one sleeve made of some pipe laying around. Cut it at an angle so I didn't have to mess around with the washers. Woods did a great writeup/videos on the BJ'S. Might not survive doing another set but its still good for u joints. Most auto parts places will let u use them for a deposit.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,063 Posts
I want my own because i have a few vehicles that need sone ball joint tlc..i want a good kit that has all the adapters so i dont have to make any
Even with a good set of adapters the top are a pita w using washers. Can't help u on a good kit but there are other threads that have info on good ones.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,063 Posts
Isn't the OP talking about pulling a pitman arm????


Yes, you need a pitman arm puller.

You can get on for $15 or the better option is to just borrow one from the parts store.

They loan them for free + if your break one you are not out anything
Part II asked about ball joints-he is going to install a dropped pitman arm also which I suggested not be done and to use a n axle side bracket to get the drag link parallel with the tb. I gotta find that pick of the dropped pitman arm that sheered on one of our NJ guys that damn near killed him. Too much stress on the pos gear box and sector shaft IMO.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,670 Posts
Dont drop the pitman arm, lots of stress on the gear box and puts into the danger zone where it might catch something and snap. I busted a shaft in two a couple of months ago when it hit on some concrete.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,063 Posts
So what do i need to do with it..kit came with it for a reason???
Use it for a paper weight...seriously there is a very good reason the super majority of jk lifts don't have a dropped pitman arm included. There are other more reliable/safer ways to address the angle of the drag link. Check w some of the major shops on here and I am confident all will recommend not using it.:beer:

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,670 Posts
It is a cheap way to try and correct some of the steering geometry but in the long run may cause you problems. If you don't have bump steer then don't worry about it, if you do and you are around 4" of lift a drag link flip with a raised track bar mount would be a better solution. It came with a drop frame side track bar mount too I assume. If so don't use that either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,579 Posts
http://fulltraction.com/detail.php?MODELID=24&MAKEID=1&TYPEID=1&PRODUCTID=424&NOTES=

Also bought this(the lift came with everything but the reenforcement bracket that goes to the frame..i purchased the arm to go with the lift kit):
http://fulltraction.com/detail.php?MODELID=24&MAKEID=1&TYPEID=2&PRODUCTID=506&NOTES=
Don't want to be disagreeable with any of the advice given, but after looking at the kit. I would install the pitman arm supplied with the kit.

There have been some sector shaft issues, I don't recall the issues being linked to dropped pitman arms. Oversized tires and no hydraulic steering assist - maybe. I had a dropped arm on my Currie lift and never experienced any sector shaft problems. The kit that you bought is engineered with the dropped pitman arm to address certain bump steer issues. Other kits handle the issue with high steer, axle side track bar brackets, etc...

There are suppliers selling aftermarket sector shaft reinforcement kits if you are worried about that issue.

If you do decide to install the pitman, you may need heat to not blow apart a cheap puller, as Stupidface pointed out. If you apply heat, first attempt to pull the arm using substantial impact wrench pressure, if it doesn't pop, leave the puller pressure on it while putting some torchage on the outer mounting boss only. Don't heat the shaft itself. Get it warm, little more impact wrench, but never a hammer.

Good luck.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top