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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So after I cried a lot because I just paid her off. I wanted one ton axles and figured might as well do a tub and frame stretch cause why not, the kid and dog need more room in the back seat. So I made Cut lines with tape because I didn't want to put sharpie on my paint, that might scratch it and it's permanent. So instead I took a 4 inch grinder to it. Yes my wife is still pissed. But I'm retarded so I then cut the frame. Idea is to pull the center section out of the frame and replace it with a longer peice. Easy money. View attachment 368091 View attachment 368092 View attachment 368093 View attachment 368094 View attachment 368096 View attachment 368095 View attachment 368097 View attachment 368098
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My first attempt at making a new frame rail was like throwing a hot dog down a hallway didn't feel very good so I made a new set of frame rails. Used 3/16 sheet and bent up 2 pieces to fit onto eachother creating a 2x4 basically (not the actual dimensions). I have some good friends and one drew and designed the frame rails and the other Cut and bent them for me. Then I just slapped together the 2 pwices of jeep and called it a night. No measurements required, it self locates and being square isn't really a big deal.


Just kidding. The frame ended up being 1mm off square and according to Collison repair manuals, 3mm off square is within spec. Also I made. The frame rails a nut hair to long and that's where the 15.75" frame stretch is. You know, cause I'm not a perfect robot. View attachment 368100 View attachment 368101 View attachment 368102 View attachment 368103 View attachment 368104 View attachment 368105 View attachment 368106 View attachment 368107
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Going back and writing this makes it seem like some super easy no big deal project I embarked on but I assure you, a lot of poopy underwear were replaced.

Mocked up the rear sterling with the upper control arms in. After some figuring out which way was up and down, some late night calls/text with the engineer that made this setup and some random late night garage visits (not for whiskey this time) I was able to get the arms in their correct spot, facing the correct way. Then I started to get excited
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I put the tires on (38.5x14.5x17 on factory ford f250 17x8.5 wheels because someone said they wouldn't fit) and cut the tub to allow for more up travel. Got he axle to stuff almost touching the crossmember right above the housing so I think it's good. Idk I'm just a welder.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pulled the rear half of the body off and starting to move the coil buckets, track bar bracket, bump stop things, shock bracket and brake lines.

I tried to be clever and reuse the factory coil bucket but it just wouldn't work out so I took some 1/8" sheet and made some basic square coil buckets. Getting them to be the same mounting position just 4.5" further back is harder than it sounds. Using my trusty angle finder on my phone (lmao I actually used this to also set my pinion angle when welding the trusses on) I got them kinda close enough to call good

Mounted the shocks back in the factory position and we'll what do you know. They hit the track bar bracket. So I got clever. Remember the first set of frame rails I failed on? Those just happen to be the exact dimension I needed to push the shock back. So I cut the factory shock bracket off the frame, put a section of the frame rail in and welded it back on. Easy money.

Used a barnes outside the frame track bar bracket, made some minor trimming and popped it on right where the track bar will probably sit.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So funny thing. I didn't realize the gas tank moved back with the rear section of the frame. Did not plan for that. Well. I got clever again and by using a scrap transmission crossmember from my friends at metalcloak I was able to place a secondary crossmember to mount the gas tank. I used the factory gas tank skid plate (you know, that beer can they wrapped around the gas tank and called it a skid) and the same friends that drew and bent the frame rails made a set of mounts for the crossmember. Simple copy of factory mounting unit only not made out of 1/8" and made from 3/16" sheet. Now to trim the crossmember around the t-case.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got super lucky. Using metalcloaks finest undercoat system, I was able to mock up my skids and the secondary crossmeber I added, cleared the Trans skid perfectly. I love when a good plan accidently come together.

Did the brake line extensions and finished the fuel line extensions and the wire harness extension. Time to fire it up.

It runs. Straight headers are not a good sounds but it runs and after some magicianing the doorman push to connect fuel line fittings, nothing leaks! My dash looks like a broken christmas tree but she's running! Couldn't of messed up that bad right?
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Putting the body back on. Since I thought I remembered it being slightly heavier than I thought it would be when my neighbor and I took it off, I decided to ask a couple more neighbors if they would help me get my trash back inside. After the tub had been rained on for about 20 days straight I thought I should bring her in. The rust isn't that bad....

My neighbors all think I'm a nut job
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Getting excited I put the tires on. She is sitting on her own legs.

Oh btw the rear lowers are not the real control arms. They are my own mock up design until the real ones come in. And yes it's the rear upper and lower of the midarm kit bolted together to make the length of the long arm rear lower control arm. Held together with a peice of scrap steel, electrical tape and bailing wire. I'm thinking about doing a shakedown run with these arms

Got her turned around, ready to pull the front 30 (for sale, make offer) also for sale are my factory sick ass jeep wheels, old 35" mtrs. And they come with tpms sensors. No charge for the scratches on the wheels. Never wheeled before.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
And now we are caught up! This is where she currently sits. I have cut the driver side factory frame brackets for the suspension, installed the afe loop relocation kit (because equal length header tubes are important, I don't care about your loop delete, it's stupid) and mocked up the front lower bracket for the long arm on the driver side. Super stoked, she's coming out pretty good and hopefully I'll be able to make my goal of putting Penny in the paint shop before summer

Let me know what you guys think so far and if you have anything to say, expect me to fire back! I love shit talking
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I bought the jeep in 2015 with 15k miles on it, soft top, bone stock. Actually that's a lie. It had a rock jock tow bar thing on the front for flat towing. I've done everything else to it. And installed it all myself. The hood vent is custom drawn/cut by my friends whom I will not name unless they want me to.

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So since I'm using factory ford wheels with 6" of backspacing and 14.5" wide tires, the tires rubbed the control arms. So instead of wasting money and buying a sweet set of racline beadlocks (which will be in the future when I win the lottery) I decided to but 2" wheel spacers off amazon. The cheapest I could find was on black friday for 35$ a set lol so I got 2 sets for less than a 100$. Sweet deal I think. I figure it can't be that hard to make a round chunk of aluminum with holes drilled in it. I guess I'll find out when I go 80 down the freeway, if she even does that.

Upon trying to install them I realized that not only did ford change the thread pitch sometime in between 2008 (front 60) and 2003 (rear sterling) they also changed the center bore from 125mm on the sterling to 130mm on the front axle. So a good friend of mine opened it up on a mill and wala I now have matching thread pitch and my sick ass factory ford wheels still work with my build! View attachment 368183 View attachment 368184
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