[ronjenx]

The zip tie thing didnt work for me had to screw tap in valve and use chanel locks to grip it and pull my butt off to get it out, but everything else was easy.

I read more and more about the zip ties not working.
It's worked well on the PCV valves I've removed.
I am truly amazed at how stuck these valves have been for some of you.

 

[Espo78]

I wish I had seen this before removing mine, however mine was really stuck as well and I ended up standing on top of the engine prying it out with channel locks like others on this thread. I'm glad I wasn't alone.

 

[Blackr6]

Has anybody had a positive experience doing this? Less oil consumption? Cleaner idling?

 

[Espo78]

It didn't seem to do anything for me. However after removing the mangled PCV valve I don't think it was bad to begin with. Oh well the part was cheap and it was not a hard job to change it out. Except the whole prying it out part mentioned above.

 

[Monster Jk]

Took me about 30 min. I took out the two bolts, left all the wires connected, and just moved it aside.

 

[SoK66]

Ok, so, for those of you who've replaced their PCVs, did the new one cure your issues?

 

[rdlynch2]

Anyone know the part number for the NAPA replacement PCV valve? And for those who have used this part, all good?

 

[TCdawg]

I tjink it is CRB 29555

I used it, no problems

 

[finnd1]

• Read the OP and a few follow up posts commenting on great success
• took off from work early so I would have some daylight
• popped the hood and let the jeep cool for an hour while I played with the kids
• broke 16 wire zip ties
• banged the hell out of my knuckles
• mangled the ever living chit ouf of the PCV valve with vice grips
• hour later, put everything back together
• re-strained my back with 8 bulging discs
• popped a vicodin and read the rest of the posts while laying flat on my back
• next morning $25 co-pay to the chiropractor
• left work early
• pulled the damned thing out as soon as I got home and had it buttoned back up within ten minutes.
• Knowing I did it myself and 'saved' money . . . priceless

any chance the OP can edit the first post to include the jeep should be warm?

 

[Chris85xlt]

Ok, so, for those of you who've replaced their PCVs, did the new one cure your issues?

i didn't have any issues to begin with, just routine maintenance i guess

 

[MD Lazy Hiker]

Like other, I broke multiple zip ties as well. Ended up gripping the PCV valve with needle-nose vise grips, locking a second pair of vise grips around the first, and prying up with a big screw driver against the valve cover...:cwm13:



It FINALLY came out!

 

[Centaurus]

If you can't pull out the pcv valve using pliers or the zip tie method, don't bother trying to wrestle it out. Set up leverage using a vice grip with a screw driver through the vice grip and resting on the top of the manifold as follows (don't leverage using the plastic tube that the pcv valve sits in):

 

[TRAUMAhead]

Thanks for the write up, just replaced mine at 70k. Unbolted the coil pack out of the way, first zip tie broke, used a beefier zip tie 2nd time around and jiggled it out, came out pretty easily. Oil was definitely dirty in the valve. Currently the Jeep burns about a quart every 1k to 1.5k miles. Cleaned the throttle body while I was at it.

 

[Bad_CRC]

Just wanted to say thanks for the info. This thread is the first thing that comes up on a search for wrangler PCV valve.

Worked great for mine.

I didn't have to take off the coil pack, just pulled the wires on the one side.

Zip tie trick worked great, "POP!" right out just like he said! Make sure to pay attention to the people who said to make sure the engine is hot before doing this, it will soften the rubber seal and expand the tube where the valve resides.


Hardest part for me was getting the hose clamp off, I could NOT get a grip on it with needle nose, and didnt' have a proper clamp pliers. Finally I used a screwdrver to rotate the clamp around to where I could get a good grip, then zip-tied it open so I could drop it back on when I was done and snip the tie with a wirecutter after it was in place.


The old valve seemed to be in fine shape, but here's hoping the new one might fix some of the oil burning and rough idling problems.

thanks again! great thread!

 

[ronjenx]

Just wanted to say thanks for the info. This thread is the first thing that comes up on a search for wrangler PCV valve.

Worked great for mine.

I didn't have to take off the coil pack, just pulled the wires on the one side.

Zip tie trick worked great, "POP!" right out just like he said! Make sure to pay attention to the people who said to make sure the engine is hot before doing this, it will soften the rubber seal and expand the tube where the valve resides.


Hardest part for me was getting the hose clamp off, I could NOT get a grip on it with needle nose, and didnt' have a proper clamp pliers. Finally I used a screwdrver to rotate the clamp around to where I could get a good grip, then zip-tied it open so I could drop it back on when I was done and snip the tie with a wirecutter after it was in place.


The old valve seemed to be in fine shape, but here's hoping the new one might fix some of the oil burning and rough idling problems.

thanks again! great thread!

Thanks for the positive feed-back. Many people have not had the zip ties work for them. There are some other good methods in this thread, and this same thread on other forums.

 

[ScaleJK4x4]

I tried the zip tie method. Didn't work for me... so I had to do the "stand over the engine bay" method. Poped out after some heavy pulling. Almost fell.

The new one going back in was super tight as well.

 

[SoK66]

After months of procrastination I finally replaced the PCV valve on my '09 JKUR, 42k on he clock. It uses about 1/2 qt in 3k miles, so there has been no rush. When I got the large rubber hose off the valve cover to reveal the PCV valve, I found that the upper part of metal element of the valve was actualy loose in the assembly. So, it appears engine vacuum was able to draw gases around the valve, rather than through it. Hoping the new one will eliminate the issues.

Getting it out was the usual PITA as reported, but I simply used some long Vise Grips and levered it off the top plastic hose part of valve cover casting. One has to be certain they have the valve fully seated when going back in. It will fool you, make sure the rubber outer part of the new PCV valve is driven in until it's about 2mm below the upper edge of the valve cover extension. See the first few photos in this thread.

 

[SoK66]

Oh, and a follow up. After replacing the original PCV valve the oil consumption (about 1/2qt in 3k miles) stopped completely for the next 1000 miles. Then it inexplicably got worse than when the original PCV valve was in there. Well, it was pretty easy to tell where the problem was located, but why? I ran down to the dealer and got another one, thinking perhaps the online retailer I'd used previously was selling off old stock. Waited for a regular oil change to put the new one in.

When I got the coil off and lifted up the PCV hose I discovered oil pooled up all over the top of the PCV valve. It pulled right out and I immediately dscovered the problem. When I'd pressed it in the rubber seal around the metal valve hadn't seated properly around the molded in sealing ridge in the valve cover. In one spot the ridge had just forced the seal up so that it wasnt seated in the seal groove. Apparently it did work for awhile, but when we took a longer road trip than usual it started not to seal.

On the first replacement I just used motor oil as a lube when pressing in the new PCV valve. On the second replacement I used a bit of grease instead and it popped right into place. Monitoring it for the next 3k miles.

 

[JKUnlimitedSport_2010]

Oh, and a follow up. After replacing the original PCV valve the oil consumption (about 1/2qt in 3k miles) stopped completely for the next 1000 miles. Then it inexplicably got worse than when the original PCV valve was in there. Well, it was pretty easy to tell where the problem was located, but why? I ran down to the dealer and got another one, thinking perhaps the online retailer I'd used previously was selling off old stock. Waited for a regular oil change to put the new one in.

When I got the coil off and lifted up the PCV hose I discovered oil pooled up all over the top of the PCV valve. It pulled right out and I immediately dscovered the problem. When I'd pressed it in the rubber seal around the metal valve hadn't seated properly around the molded in sealing ridge in the valve cover. In one spot the ridge had just forced the seal up so that it wasnt seated in the seal groove. Apparently it did work for awhile, but when we took a longer road trip than usual it started not to seal.

On the first replacement I just used motor oil as a lube when pressing in the new PCV valve. On the second replacement I used a bit of grease instead and it popped right into place. Monitoring it for the next 3k miles.

what kind of grease did you use? I am going to change mine out since it has been 90k since i changed mine... dont want to contaminate anything!

 

[saharac]

Leveraging it out with vice-grips is by far the most painless option IMO. As it is you wont be re-using it, if it is part of your maintenance list.
The outer valve on mine was already lubricated with the engine oil. Using a right size socket that sits on the rubber sleeve of the PCV valve makes it easy to pop it in place.