So i contacted the dealer to order the part number listed 04648973AB. The one that came up in its place was 04648973AD, does any one know why? Did they change the manufacture or some thing like that? Why would it change from AB-AD, any ideas?

 

the letter change at the end usually denotes an updated part.

 

Cool, so hopefully the new ones work better with oil consumption. If any one is looking for one, the dealer by me has them for $16.xx.

 

One step not mentioned in this write-up is to make sure your jeep is warmed up first. I tried doing this when my jeep was cold before it started raining and the zip-tie broke. So I tried needle nose pliers standing on the engine still the valve wouldn't budge. tried prying it where the hole was no luck, just started rippen the steel:flipoff: Then it started to drizzle so i put everything back together. Next day I came home from work, popped the hood, removed the coil and pulled it right out without a problem since the engine was still warm from the trip home. Then I enjoyed my victory beer:gluging:

 

Wish I would have known this... I ended up drilling a hole straight through the metal part, stuck a steel cable through it stood on the engine compartment and dead lifted it till it popped out.... Almost fell off the heep in the process and the bottom part of the rubber boot broke off in there... Had to pry it out with a flat head after... Jeep has 66k on it..

 

Wow, im about to do mine this weekend. Lots of good insight. I will be doing it with a warm engine. Hopefully I don't get any check engine lights :th_pray:

 

All my zip ties broke.. I had previously removed the air box and tube so I climbed on in, stood on the axel housing and pulled like a sunova till she gave up!
72k original PCV

-Nathan

 

Just did mine tonight, Had it nice and warm after a 20 minute drive, i let it cool down 30 minutes. I just removed 1 bolt from the coil and loosed the other to spun it out of the way keeping all the wires connected.

I couldn't get the ziptie to stay on since it was a little oily so i just stuck a needlenose in and prayed up while standing on my passenger tire. It popped right off after a few attempts and wiggles.

I got the part at Napa a little over $10 after taxes. I just passed 60k and noticed oil consumption has been high and the idle rough at times, I am hoping this helps!

 

Next on my list! Great write up.

Sent via modern day courier pigeon

 

I noticed a knocking and checked my oil and there was almost 0. I just did a oil change in Jan 12. I only have about 11K (its a 07) due to multiple back injuries/ surgeries. I only drive to PT and gym which is maybe 8 miles a day. Could my PCV be bad? I added about 5 qts today of 5W-30 Mobile 1 synthetic. No oil leaks under jeep and there does not seem to be an excessive amount of exhaust either. Figure I might try to replace the PCV before I go get raped at the local dealer. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks- Hurley

 

Did mine today. The zip tie method was a no go. The thing was in there just too damn tight. After about an hour mangling the nipple, I actually had to stand over the thing with one foot on the top of the firewall and the other on the front bumper, grab it with channel locks and tug with all my strength. It finally gave up and popped out sending me in the air so I had to do a pivoting ballet move and leap to the ground.

Installing the new one took about 30 seconds. So far, so good.

 

i just did mine too. purchased a factory PCV for ~$7

I unbolted the coil pack and just pushed it out of the way.
Tried using HF zip ties was a no go as well...
Ended up using some channel-locks holding the top of the valve (replacing it anyways...), then tapped the bottom of the pliers with a hammer.
Saved the uberman strength for another day

 

Pulled my PCV valve today and tried to replace it with a NAPA part, no. 2-9555. I cannot get the sucker to seat back in.

Anyone had this issue with the NAPA part? Maybe I just need to go with a MOPAR part...

 

All is good with the NAPA PCV valve. I had some if the rubber gasket still in the hole. Got that out and the valve popped right in.

Old valve and broken gasket on left, new one on the right.

 

The zip tie thing didnt work for me had to screw tap in valve and use chanel locks to grip it and pull my butt off to get it out, but everything else was easy.

 

I read more and more about the zip ties not working.
It's worked well on the PCV valves I've removed.
I am truly amazed at how stuck these valves have been for some of you.

 

I wish I had seen this before removing mine, however mine was really stuck as well and I ended up standing on top of the engine prying it out with channel locks like others on this thread. I'm glad I wasn't alone.

 

Has anybody had a positive experience doing this? Less oil consumption? Cleaner idling?

 

It didn't seem to do anything for me. However after removing the mangled PCV valve I don't think it was bad to begin with. Oh well the part was cheap and it was not a hard job to change it out. Except the whole prying it out part mentioned above.

 

Took me about 30 min. I took out the two bolts, left all the wires connected, and just moved it aside.

 

Ok, so, for those of you who've replaced their PCVs, did the new one cure your issues?

 

i didn't have any issues to begin with, just routine maintenance i guess

 

Anyone know the part number for the NAPA replacement PCV valve? And for those who have used this part, all good?

 

I tjink it is CRB 29555

I used it, no problems

 

• Read the OP and a few follow up posts commenting on great success
• took off from work early so I would have some daylight
• popped the hood and let the jeep cool for an hour while I played with the kids
• broke 16 wire zip ties
• banged the hell out of my knuckles
• mangled the ever living chit ouf of the PCV valve with vice grips
• hour later, put everything back together
• re-strained my back with 8 bulging discs
• popped a vicodin and read the rest of the posts while laying flat on my back
• next morning $25 co-pay to the chiropractor
• left work early
• pulled the damned thing out as soon as I got home and had it buttoned back up within ten minutes.
• Knowing I did it myself and 'saved' money . . . priceless

any chance the OP can edit the first post to include the jeep should be warm?

 

Like other, I broke multiple zip ties as well. Ended up gripping the PCV valve with needle-nose vise grips, locking a second pair of vise grips around the first, and prying up with a big screw driver against the valve cover...:cwm13:



It FINALLY came out!

 

If you can't pull out the pcv valve using pliers or the zip tie method, don't bother trying to wrestle it out. Set up leverage using a vice grip with a screw driver through the vice grip and resting on the top of the manifold as follows (don't leverage using the plastic tube that the pcv valve sits in):

 

Thanks for the write up, just replaced mine at 70k. Unbolted the coil pack out of the way, first zip tie broke, used a beefier zip tie 2nd time around and jiggled it out, came out pretty easily. Oil was definitely dirty in the valve. Currently the Jeep burns about a quart every 1k to 1.5k miles. Cleaned the throttle body while I was at it.

 

if my Jeep burned that much oil, I would never perform an oil change. just change the filter every 5k and keep adding oil. IMO that is ridiculous and unacceptable. if I knew these 3.8L engines were doing this before I bought my Jeep, I would have never bought it.

 

Just wanted to say thanks for the info. This thread is the first thing that comes up on a search for wrangler PCV valve.

Worked great for mine.

I didn't have to take off the coil pack, just pulled the wires on the one side.

Zip tie trick worked great, "POP!" right out just like he said! Make sure to pay attention to the people who said to make sure the engine is hot before doing this, it will soften the rubber seal and expand the tube where the valve resides.


Hardest part for me was getting the hose clamp off, I could NOT get a grip on it with needle nose, and didnt' have a proper clamp pliers. Finally I used a screwdrver to rotate the clamp around to where I could get a good grip, then zip-tied it open so I could drop it back on when I was done and snip the tie with a wirecutter after it was in place.


The old valve seemed to be in fine shape, but here's hoping the new one might fix some of the oil burning and rough idling problems.

thanks again! great thread!

 

Thanks for the positive feed-back. Many people have not had the zip ties work for them. There are some other good methods in this thread, and this same thread on other forums.

 

I tried the zip tie method. Didn't work for me... so I had to do the "stand over the engine bay" method. Poped out after some heavy pulling. Almost fell.

The new one going back in was super tight as well.