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Here's how I fixed my hood lift problem. I didn't take pics of the build as it took a few weeks for the trial and error fit-ups. I can give detailed instructions to anyone willing to tackle this project.
It consists of making a new top latching system, and **WARNING** the commitment to totally disassemble (cut and drill apart) the stock lower hinge pieces. It can, however, be returned to an almost stock config if you wish.

Parts wise, it should run about 90.00, I have less in it because I machined the top brackets and bushings myself. I also went to the salvage yard and got a hood latch assy to experiment with, saving tons of time and heartburn.

Here's how they turned out.











Here's the drawing for the top bracket, I used 6061-T6 aluminum barstock.
The only dim really critical is the .752, if you fall on the short side the rod end will hit the heads of the mounting bolts and the bushing in the rod end will not align with the thru hole in the bracket. This makes it impossible to insert the locking pin to secure the hood. Unfortunately, I know this from experience.



Here's the drawing for the bushings that go in the bottom hinge portion after cutting out the stock hinge pins. There is a metal rod inside of the plastic hinge pin, and the pin ends have different size shoulders, hence the different size OD dims.



I know, it's expensive. But it positively eliminates all hood lift by taking the weak link out-that @&*%$ rubberband. Plus it has a cool one-off look:smokin:
The rod ends are fully adjustable so I can dial in the exact amount of tension and can dial out wear on the parts.
After crunching some numbers, I found it would take about 9,000 lbs. of static load before the top bracket or locking pin broke and/or sheared, well above any load the hood would see.
I didn't make a bottom piece because of the little rubber flap that extends under the hood lip.
I did these back in July, and they have performed flawlessly. The ONLY drawback is I have to make sure that anyone lifting the hood besides me knows to let the rod end assys fall to the fenders when they pull the pins. If they don't, the ends go under the hood lip and might cause a dent on the inside.

Any questions, let me know.
 

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That is very trick looking, and cool with it :smokin: I had to do a mod to the hold downs on the TJ hood because at speed they flexed. I am still waiting for my JK, should be very soon, but I am getting a list together of mods.

The tee bar/pins what are they from?

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is very trick looking, and cool with it :smokin: I had to do a mod to the hold downs on the TJ hood because at speed they flexed. I am still waiting for my JK, should be very soon, but I am getting a list together of mods.

The tee bar/pins what are they from?

Steve
Thanks Steve. Are you getting a petrol or diesel motor? You'll love the JK, congrats!!

You can find the locking pins here, from a place called Jergens Inc. They have several styles, "T", "L", button, recessed button and ring handle. Mine are the "T" style, .3125 x 1.00 stainless, I think they were around 14.00 each.
 

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Hi John

I am getting a petrol, I bought it when I was over at Folsom CA in October. I did not want a diesel as over here in the UK they have the VM diesel engine, which is a little under powered, okay for the 2 door. Also I saved about $10,000:bounce: even after shipping.

Thanks for the link for the pins I will get some ordered.

Steve
 
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I bet if you produced and packaged all of the pieces you could sell a ton of them! Very nice.
 

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I bet if you produced and packaged all of the pieces you could sell a ton of them! Very nice.
X2 on that......get busy....:)
 

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I like steel and speedholes :thefinger:
2 3/8" x 2? quick pins off ebay: $15 shipped
6 3holes gussets from aa-mfg: $1.50 i think
2 male 2 female 3/8 heim/rod ends from ebay: $20 shipped
assorted other stainless bolts: $6
Total: under $45

Some welding and cutting and thats about it. Finished in Rustoleum black :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Nice job there. Same idea, nice variation on it.
 

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Nice job there. Same idea, nice variation on it.
Thanks. I was going to mill it at work out of aluminum but while messing around I found the 3 hole gussets were near perfect and save a chunk of machine time.

and its got SPEEEED HOLES :laughing:

I should have TIGed it at work but wanted to just get it done
 

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Do you think that the original rubber clamp was designed to flex for off-road use?

Now with more solid brackets, maybe the hood could bend or something?
Just wondering...

[Edit]By the way, I really like the T lock pins... Very nice![/Edit]
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do you think that the original rubber clamp was designed to flex for off-road use?

Now with more solid brackets, maybe the hood could bend or something?
Just wondering...

[Edit]By the way, I really like the T lock pins... Very nice![/Edit]
After close to a year and a shatload of wheeling, no hood bending at all.
It's Moab tested, so it has to be good!!:smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
great looking install, but you can just buy the Daystar hood latches for like $25 and install them in like 10 min. up to you.
Not even in the same ballpark.

The Daystar's are rubber. Mine are steel. Mine take the flex out of the equasion:D
The Daystar's (and the stockers) will eventually wear out. Mine will not:D
The Daystar's look stock. Mine have cool locking T-pins:D

Almost everybody that notices them asks me where I bought them. Feels good to say I designed and built them myself.
 

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Don't get me wrong I was not putting down your design or intent of your hood fix. if you noticed, the first thing I said was "great looking install" Daystar is a cheap alternative, and they are not rubber they are polyurethane and the hardware is metal.

Again I will state, your design and installation looks great and is a great solution. But a lot of us have neither the time nor the money to invest in a project that has a 10 min solution, if you get where I am coming from.
 

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Don't get me wrong I was not putting down your design or intent of your hood fix. if you noticed, the first thing I said was "great looking install" Daystar is a cheap alternative, and they are not rubber they are polyurethane and the hardware is metal.

Again I will state, your design and installation looks great and is a great solution. But a lot of us have neither the time nor the money to invest in a project that has a 10 min solution, if you get where I am coming from.
I was just busting your balls, man;), hope I didn't offend you. I typed that in about 30 seconds. Oh, and I'm off my meds too....:laughing2:
You are, of course, correct when you state that they are not rubber and are, in fact, polywhatever.
Daystar saw a need for a superior product and stepped forward to provide it. Probably well worth the 25 bucks...
 
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