Parking Brake Cables

9229 Views 11 Replies 5 Participants Last post by j3ff3ry_j33p, Sep 5, 2018

PhilD

Discussion Starter · Mar 4, 2008

When I originally lifted my JK, I relocated the parking brake cables below the cross member, this provides for more free length and will prevent the cables getting stretched when the rear suspension is drooped heavily.

Seems that some lift kits don't tackle this issue, and some do. There may be enough free length in the cables in the stock location, but moving them is pretty easy.

You need to disconnect the cables at the axle end to re-route them, and move the clamp that holds them in place to the cross member. You'll need to drill a couple of holes and use self tapping screws for the clamp.

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MichaelW

· #2 · Mar 4, 2008

Awesome Phil.

I'll have to look and see what I did as mine wasn't so much the length as it was the rubbing on the sheilding.

Thannks for bringing this up and showing a solution as many may not realize this is or could be an issue.

:beer:

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n8it

· #3 · Apr 9, 2008

How do you disconnect the cables at the axle end?

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PhilD

Discussion Starter · #4 · Apr 9, 2008

n8it said:
How do you disconnect the cables at the axle end?

They just unhook, you have to disconnect the bracket end first, but they come off pretty easy.

Pic 1
Remove the cable (1) from the axle bracket (2).

Pic 2
Remove the brake cable (1) from the brake lever (2) at the support plate.

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n8it

· #5 · Apr 9, 2008

I tried pulling the brake cable sheath out from the axle bracket while depressing the clips, but I could only get it to move about 1/4 inch before the brake cable gets tight and I can no longer move the sheath back. It needs to move another 3/8 of an inch to pull it out of the axle bracket enough to drop the cable down the slot in the axle bracket.

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PhilD

Discussion Starter · #6 · Apr 9, 2008

With the parking braking released, I found that you need to pull hard on the cable, but it did come off. You could try poppomh the spring off the bracket first, that may make it easier.

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n8it

· #7 · Apr 9, 2008

Looks like I will not have a chance to work on it until tomorrow night, but nice to know I was doing it correctly. I just need a little bit more elbow grease! Thanks Phil.

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RotorHead

· #8 · Apr 9, 2008

Does the cable really need to be bolted to the bottom? I never reattached mine after installing my lift about 9 months ago. Any problems associated with this? I haven't seen or noticed any.

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PhilD

Discussion Starter · #9 · Apr 9, 2008

RotorHead said:
Does the cable really need to be bolted to the bottom? I never reattached mine after installing my lift about 9 months ago. Any problems associated with this? I haven't seen or noticed any.

There shouldn't be, it's always possible that after flexing they would go back in the wrong place, but I doubt it would be an issue.

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RotorHead

· #10 · Apr 9, 2008

Thanks Phil. I didn't think so, but I was wrong once before or maybe I was just mistaken. :beer:

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n8it

· #11 · Apr 11, 2008

I now have my lines reloacted. They look much better at full drop now. The passenger side took quite a bit of effort and the drivers side was very easy.

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