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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, so I'm not totally cheap, I did go out and buy a brand new Unlimited Rubicon afterall. However, I've decided to try to stuff 35s sans lift...and I plan to wheel it!

On the way I have a bunch of Rugged Ridge stuff (see I AM cheap): front and rear bumpers, tire carrier, and a few skids. This stuff CAN'T be any worse than the stock skids and plastic bumpers, right?

Discount Tire has ordered 16X8 American Racing Mojave wheels (4.5 BS) and corresponding 35" BFG KM2s. Also on the way - Bushwacker flat fenders and a Superchips programmer.

Everything should be here by the end of the week so place your bets - is it possible to run 35s on a stock (height wise) Rubicon or will I end up regretting this decision? :question:

Today when my wife got home from work and opened the garage door I had the sawzall in my hands and that crazy look in my eyes! The stock rock rails and pinch seams are now "modified". My wife was :shaking:. :D
 

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You can run 35's, but you will really be hurting on flex. Best to put some sort of lift on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Guess we'll see. I'm pretty happy with the stock suspension thus far. I think with all my new goodies I won't be rubbing, but who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here's how it looked when it came home from the dealership last Thursday. I'll update with more pics on its two week anniversary. :bounce:

 

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you'll be able to wheel it. judas ran 35s on his 2 door with zero lift... he rubbed at full flex but for the most part was able to wheel it normally. you'll get a lift eventually. even if its a spacer set.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
you'll be able to wheel it. judas ran 35s on his 2 door with zero lift... he rubbed at full flex but for the most part was able to wheel it normally. you'll get a lift eventually. even if its a spacer set.
Where was he rubbing? BTW, I think you're probably right, but if I can get away with this setup I will.
 

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The latest Four Wheeler mag has an article on this same setup. They reported minor rubbing on the rear at full articulation. The consensus was that it was "ok" for daily driving and light wheeling, but anything more and just a simple budget boost should do the trick...
 

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I'm running 35" x 12 MTR K's on my two door with a 2" coil spacer lift. The rear tires rub the fender flares pretty hard with only moderate flex. Eventually the rubbing will rip off the rear flares and I'll get some flat steel replacements. As long as your backspacing is ok(I have 3.75) you should be able to run 35's with no lift but start planning for new rear flares!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
As mentioned above the bushwacker flat fenders have already been purchased. Those along with after market bumpers and a sawzall should create a lot of room for new meats. I'll let you guys know how it goes, but I'm not anticipating any rub on full steering lock and possible light rub at full articulation.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
IMO ...cheap get expensive when/if you regret the purchase and later end up buying other/better mods.
You know, generally I'd agree with you. However, I'm only supplementing in a few places with the Rugged Ridge stuff. Any vehicle with Dana 44s, Rock Trac txfr, lockers, and discos will always be a great wheeler even in stock form. I certainly didn't go cheap on the wheels and tires, flares, superchips, etc. If I need to add a small spacer lift in the future I'll still have one hell of a Jeep.
 

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Which bumpers are you running, and do you have a winch?

My Shrockworks front bumper alone dropped my front end 1/4". When I added the winch, it dropped another 1/4". So I had to add a 3/4" spacer on the front to compensate.

Then again on the rear- The Rugged Ridge rear bumper was negligible. But adding in the carrier along with the 35" tire (on steelie) dropped the rear enough to warrant 3/4" spacers to compensate.
 

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It depends on how/where you wheel it. If you don't need a lot of flex you might be fine. It will probably look good either way. The flares will give you a fair amount of room. Interested in your pics when parts installed. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I think I'm already having a change of heart. Looking at rough country's site I'm thinking of going with the RC 3.25 coil/spacer system. I mean for $379 why not add some lift, right?
 

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I think I'm already having a change of heart. Looking at rough country's site I'm thinking of going with the RC 3.25 coil/spacer system. I mean for $379 why not add some lift, right?
And so it begins.. :laughing:
 

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You wont like not having a lift.
On the 2dr you could do it and still weel hard.
With the 4 dr the break over angle will kill you.
I ran a 2.5-3" bb for a year and a half and IMO with 34's that was not enough to fix the crappy breakover. Im now on 4" with 34's and its much better. Going to go to 37's next and i think then it shoudl finally not worry me anymore.
It sucks to have to crab sideways over a berm just so you dont bottom out on it.

Dont get me wrong I love my 4dr and I think it has plenty of advantages over the 2 dr offroad. But the 2 dr definately has it better with the breakover angle. It takes a few inches of lift to get an unlimited where it should be from the factory.

With the 35's and the bushwackers, I would personally reccomment the teraflex 2.5 spring lift as it will give you a real nice height and will last you forever.

WHat you have to consider is that this IS AN ADDICTION and you WILL want to go bigger. IF you already want to go bigger then DO IT if you can afford it. If you are trying to get it offroad worthy and cant afford the lift you really want then get a RC BB which will hold you over until you can get the one you really want/need.

this is all my opinion of course :D
 

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I'm all for doing things the "cheap" route as long as it works. With that being said why are you buying bushwacker fenders when you have a sawzall? Cut down the factory ones and save the money for something else.
 
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