[tvernon]

I'm looking for someone who may be designed and built their own oil pan skid plate, or maybe redesigned their whole skid system.

What brings this about is after looking at the cost of an oil pan skid plate by as many vendors as I could find, I realized that I can get a whole 4x8 sheet of steel and some good tubing and beef up most of my skid plates for less than the cost of one oil pan skid bought from a vendor. Just seems like the better way to go.

So has anyone done this and would be willing to share their designs? I know there are some on here who have done some stellar builds so this has to have been dealt with by others.

Thanks guys,

Tyler

 

[JKred07]

I've been debating doing this for a few months now. Issue it I can't find the steel locally without buying from a TSC or Home Depot, which isn't big enough sheets.

 

[tvernon]

yeah, buying steel from a "big-box" store would probably cost you far more than what its worth.


I need to get under there and scope everything out and maybe come up with a design of my own. If I can manage to tuck the transfer case skid plate up at the same time I think I can do some real good there too.

 

[Mt.GoatJK]

Im going to do the same thing. I was able to buy remnant sheets of steel at a place in my area called industrial metal supply. i cost about 150 bucks they sell it by the pound. im sure i have enough for all the skids, just need to find the time! Maybe there is something like that in your area?

 

[tvernon]

Im going to do the same thing. I was able to buy remnant sheets of steel at a place in my area called industrial metal supply. i cost about 150 bucks they sell it by the pound. im sure i have enough for all the skids, just need to find the time! Maybe there is something like that in your area?

good find. Finding the steel isn't my issue, it's the actual design of the skid plate that I'm wanting to work with.

Has no one done this that will chime in here??

 

[tvernon]

Bump for the west coast crowd.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

I've got the actual skid pretty much pre engineered, but I need to spend some time with trying to mount it to either the frame or decide if I want to mount it to the engine mounts. I honestly want to relocate my crossover pipe to behind my t-case before I build it.

 

[HOT_DAMN]

One of the guys in my local Jeep club made his own oil pan skid plate. I havent looked at it really close but I know he ran some tubing off the frame angled down to the skid plate up by the engine and I think he tied the back of it into the factory crossmember. I know you need to be careful of where you tie the supports in, I would stray away from the motor mounts. The last thing you want to do is come down hard on the skidplate and bust a motor mount.
I plan on building two new crossmembers the same as the factory one and just skinning it with some plate to cover the transmission and transfercase. Then do something similar as he did up by the engine.
Next time I see his Jeep Ill try and grab some pics of it for ya, take a little more detailed look at how he did his.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

One of the guys in my local Jeep club made his own oil pan skid plate. I havent looked at it really close but I know he ran some tubing off the frame angled down to the skid plate up by the engine and I think he tied the back of it into the factory crossmember. I know you need to be careful of where you tie the supports in, I would stray away from the motor mounts. The last thing you want to do is come down hard on the skidplate and bust a motor mount.
I plan on building two new crossmembers the same as the factory one and just skinning it with some plate to cover the transmission and transfercase. Then do something similar as he did up by the engine.
Next time I see his Jeep Ill try and grab some pics of it for ya, take a little more detailed look at how he did his.

Yeah I think I'll use some tabs welded to the frame. That way I can use a bushing to mount it to the frame. Weld a piece of square tubing to it, and run it down to the skid plate frame. The skid bolted to the trans crossmember. That way its still removable. I want to go ahead and run my exhaust behind my t case to give me some more room to work with.

 

[ockgator]

Once you figure how much you actually have invested in this time wise could it actually be more cost effective just to buy skids?

This really only applies if its the cost alone that is slowing you from buying skids... If you're the type that loves to tinker and fabricate(and have the equipment) as a hobby then by all means go for it.

 

[Gotlime?]

Once you figure how much you actually have invested in this time wise could it actually be more cost effective just to buy skids?

This really only applies if its the cost alone that is slowing you from buying skids... If you're the type that loves to tinker and fabricate(and have the equipment) as a hobby then by all means go for it.

I agree. It's not as easy as it looks.

If it were, there would be a bunch of good, cheap systems out there.

I started with the RR skids and I'm on the 2nd or 3rd round of modifications and I'm still not please with them.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Once you figure how much you actually have invested in this time wise could it actually be more cost effective just to buy skids?

This really only applies if its the cost alone that is slowing you from buying skids... If you're the type that loves to tinker and fabricate(and have the equipment) as a hobby then by all means go for it.

As fair as materials I might have $60 tied up in it when done. And as far as time invested, I haven't even started, just took a couple measurements. The fact the frame is flat behind the engine mounts, means you won't spend much time prepping them for the tabs. Building the actual skid plate might take 2-3 hrs. Shouldn't be bad at all. You just can't over think things and make sure to mock it all up so everything clears.

 

[HOT_DAMN]

I agree. It's not as easy as it looks.

If it were, there would be a bunch of good, cheap systems out there.

I started with the RR skids and I'm on the 2nd or 3rd round of modifications and I'm still not please with them.

So your saying its cheaper to buy a cookie cutter system that youve had to modify several times and its still not working? I would never spend that much money on something I could build for a quarter of the cost and build it right the first time.

As fair as materials I might have $60 tied up in it when done. And as far as time invested, I haven't even started, just took a couple measurements. The fact the frame is flat behind the engine mounts, means you won't spend much time prepping them for the tabs. Building the actual skid plate might take 2-3 hrs. Shouldn't be bad at all. You just can't over think things and make sure to mock it all up so everything clears.

I agree with this, KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) I was under my Jeep the other day getting some measurements on the factory crossmember, theres plenty of room up towards the front of the engine to run some bracing up to the frame.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

My idea for what I want to build should be considerably stronger, and I've already got the counter sinking bits and bolts to make it as smooth as possible and allowing a removeable oil drain hole too. Sucks it will be September before I can actually begin working on it. Sucks fabbing stuff while being in the military.

 

[tvernon]

When I started this thread I was looking for people who have done it before and might be willing to share some of their experiences and designs with me. That unfortunately hasn't materialized.

To the comment about cost of materials/time/effort and such, in my part of the world I can buy 90% of the materials needed to completely revamp my entire skid system for the cost of any worthwhile** oil pan skid. Thus my curiosity. Plus, with the JK crowd, everyone seems content with just buying some vendors products (nothing wrong with that) and going about their day. I want'ed to see if I could accomplish something a little different.

 

[JeepUpKeep37s]

I have not built my own skid system but modifed an existing one. I agree I would have made my own due the designs out there that I just don't like. RR looks like the best skid out there but cost is high, I have heard of complaints about vibration, they mount from engine mount to crossmember which I think is the cause of the complaints.

I bought a complete aluminium skid set used which I byASFIR. I have trashed the rear muffler skid which I may just strengthen or remove muffler so who cares. The front skid does alright basic with two bends. Easy to duplicate and mounting holes are there already.
The oil pan skid is not going take big hits or be rested on IMO. The skid bolts on with two bolts from existing oil pan bolts and two transmission mount bolts. It will prevent denting or puncturing the oil pan so I am happy with that. The transmission/transfer case skid is another matter. I have modified the mount up front that it comes with to go over top the front drive shaft, it uses the stock cross member, and there is a easy rear mount. All of it can be duplicated. I am currently having a metal skid being done right now cause aluminium does not work well there. It just gouges and bends. A friend is making a skid from stainless steel cause he can and with scrap. Yes they have scrap that big at his shop. Should be no cost to me. The evap Sid seems to be good enough but I may relocate that after I modify the exhaust any way.

If you want to see the mounts and skids I can share pics of this modified setup if you wish. I don't regret buying this skid set used as it was cheap and allowed me to determine what I needed and what materials where. I am not recommending a stainless steel skid to anyone by the way. It's on the cheap that is why I am doing it. That is expensive stuff. Regular steel would be fine and may even be better as it is lighter and is strong enough. Stainless will be a killer skid but being heavy is the downside.

Let me know if you want to see install pics my junk..... Lol

 

[ksjkhunter]

I built my own skids. It may not apply to yor set up though. I built my own three link in te front and no longer have the front crossmember (under the trans). I did build off the motor mounts. There was an existing bolt hole on both sides. I used heavy angle iron coming down next to the oil pan. I bought 3/16x12 flat plate for te skid itself. Using a slightly lighter angle I built a frame for the skid. It is attached to the new xmember I built. I normally don't like angle iron for aesthetic reasons but in this situation it fit the bill. I understand the concer for tying into the motor mounts but with my long arm, dana 60 and a driveshaft in the neighborhood I'm probably not going to land on the very front of that skid. Most impacts will be toward the back where it is tied to a heavy xmember.

I also built an evap/muffler skid in te rear. I left the stock tcase skid in place and tied my skid frame to it. Again nit ideal but i was coming up on a deadline. Behind the evap canister I tied to the xmember down to that same size plate I used up front.

I have only had the rig out a few times but I haven't seen any damage yet. I'm wheeling the piss out of it trying to find the bugs. I have never posted pix here but pm me and I could text you some detailed pix.

Thanks Michael