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I have a new-to-me 2012 Rubicon. 112k miles on it when I got it last May. Had it inspected by my off-road shop before purchasing for any potential expensive problems, they gave the okay to buy.

Since then, I've discovered it drinks oil. No leaks anywhere. No oil in the air intake, no oil I can find looking around the engine. The roommate says it smokes a little if I hammer it, not sure what color though. I used 2.5 quarts in 549 miles (I did the math), and that's ridiculous. I can understand using some with it having that many miles on it, but ... not that much.

I've replaced the PCV valve, which seems to have slowed it a little, but I still had to put half a quart, maybe 3/4, in at around 200-250 miles (I'm unsure of the exact mileage, and that's on me - I should have still been keeping track but thought changing that would fix it). I'm still concerned with the consumption, though.

The roommate thinks I'm freaking out over nothing, but he won't be the one out a vehicle if it's the engine going bad. And because this makes exactly ten years this year, I'm worried that if it is something that was covered under that ten year warranty Chrysler put out, it's no longer covered.

Those of you who've dealt with this issue, what was the problem? What was the process for dealing with the dealership (especially if yours was used like mine)? I'm just not sure where to start from here.
 

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I have a new-to-me 2012 Rubicon. 112k miles on it when I got it last May. Had it inspected by my off-road shop before purchasing for any potential expensive problems, they gave the okay to buy.

Since then, I've discovered it drinks oil. No leaks anywhere. No oil in the air intake, no oil I can find looking around the engine. The roommate says it smokes a little if I hammer it, not sure what color though. I used 2.5 quarts in 549 miles (I did the math), and that's ridiculous. I can understand using some with it having that many miles on it, but ... not that much.

I've replaced the PCV valve, which seems to have slowed it a little, but I still had to put half a quart, maybe 3/4, in at around 200-250 miles (I'm unsure of the exact mileage, and that's on me - I should have still been keeping track but thought changing that would fix it). I'm still concerned with the consumption, though.

The roommate thinks I'm freaking out over nothing, but he won't be the one out a vehicle if it's the engine going bad. And because this makes exactly ten years this year, I'm worried that if it is something that was covered under that ten year warranty Chrysler put out, it's no longer covered.

Those of you who've dealt with this issue, what was the problem? What was the process for dealing with the dealership (especially if yours was used like mine)? I'm just not sure where to start from here.
The 3.6L is notorious for the oil housing adapter to leak. There are theories out there about why. One theory is the plastic is cheap and to upgrade to a Dorman aluminum one. Another theory is the bolts have been over torqued. I can't remember off the top of my head what the spec is for that, 5 maybe but don't quote me. I hear that dealer technicians are suppose to go in and check the bolts and re-torque then add dye before they replace. Some just out right replace. When mine went bad I didn't see oil in the engine but underneath... HOLY COW! not sure how long I was losing oil. My mechanic new right away when he checked the engine. He knew where to look.
 

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I concur on the oil cooler/ filter housing. Lift the engine cover and look down in front of the oil filter housing. Is there any oil visible? Can you smell hot or burnt oil? If not, you have worse issues.

Just realized this is a Jan not Jun post by the OP! Hopefully, this has been rectified now.

IceColeNH on an Android Smaht Fone using Tapatalk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I concur on the oil cooler/ filter housing. Lift the engine cover and look down in front of the oil filter housing. Is there any oil visible? Can you smell hot or burnt oil? If not, you have worse issues.

Just realized this is a Jan not Jun post by the OP! Hopefully, this has been rectified now.

IceColeNH on an Android Smaht Fone using Tapatalk.
Sorry for the late response, life kicked me in the teeth and I forgot to come back here.

I've replaced the oil cooler filter housing and the valve cover gasket both, and I'm still losing a ton of oil. No smoke out the back, no puddles to be seen, so I'm at a loss for where it's going. Someone suggested the rear main seal or the oil pan gasket, but I'm still losing the same amount of oil per mileage I was with the defective oil cooler filter housing. I'm not sure what to do at this point. Yes, I can smell oil. I can't see it yet again, though. But I'm still going through a quart for every 400 or less miles.
 

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I had to take mine back apart because the o-ring on the housing that gets pushed into the oil feed port got cut during install, not sure why but the first o-ring was a flat band and the new one was a regular o-ring that fit better.
 

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I've replaced the oil cooler filter housing and the valve cover gasket both, and I'm still losing a ton of oil. No smoke out the back, no puddles to be seen, so I'm at a loss for where it's going. Someone suggested the rear main seal or the oil pan gasket, but I'm still losing the same amount of oil per mileage I was with the defective oil cooler filter housing. I'm not sure what to do at this point. Yes, I can smell oil. I can't see it yet again, though. But I'm still going through a quart for every 400 or less miles.


Though not immune to the issue, the 2012-2013 3.6 was not known for problematic/leaky oil coolers. The oil cooler was slightly redesigned in 2014 and uses a different filter. It was the 2014+ models that were known for having oil leak issues. The aftermarket aluminum oil coolers were originally just for the 2014+ models. Now that you can get a complete housing+cooler assembly you can use them on the 2012+ models.

If the oil cooler o-rings are leaking, oil would pool up under the housing and it would be difficult to see with the cooler still in place. Since you already replaced it (had it off), you would have seen that.

There is no oil pan gasket. It is sealed with Mopar-supplied ThreeBond. Theres an upper (aluminum) and lower (stamped steel) pan. It would be very obvious of there was a leak at the pan. If there was a rear main seal leak, that wold be obvious too. You would see oil dripping out between the transmission bell housing and the rear of the engine. You'd have a drip on the driveway for sure.


I have a new-to-me 2012 Rubicon. 112k miles on it when I got it last May.

Since then, I've discovered it drinks oil. No leaks anywhere. No oil in the air intake, no oil I can find looking around the engine. The roommate says it smokes a little if I hammer it, not sure what color though. I used 2.5 quarts in 549 miles (I did the math), and that's ridiculous. I can understand using some with it having that many miles on it, but ... not that much.

I've replaced the PCV valve, which seems to have slowed it a little, but I still had to put half a quart, maybe 3/4, in at around 200-250 miles (I'm unsure of the exact mileage, and that's on me - I should have still been keeping track but thought changing that would fix it). I'm still concerned with the consumption, though.

The roommate thinks I'm freaking out over nothing, but he won't be the one out a vehicle if it's the engine going bad. And because this makes exactly ten years this year, I'm worried that if it is something that was covered under that ten year warranty Chrysler put out, it's no longer covered.

Those of you who've dealt with this issue, what was the problem? What was the process for dealing with the dealership (especially if yours was used like mine)? I'm just not sure where to start from here.
First, I would get a more exact measurement (post PCV replacement) for how many miles you are getting for every quart of oil you add. If you're going through 2-1/2 quarts in 549 miles, that is a lot! You would see a fair amount of smoke out the tail pipe or have a significant leak that should be obvious and easy to find, not to mention an oil spot on your driveway. The under carriage would fairly wet with oil too. If youre not seeing a decent amount of smoke and no obvious leaks, then I would suspect bad math.

When you check the intake, you need to check the intake manifold after the throttle body. Thats where the crank case fumes get sucked in from the PCV on the bank 1 valve cover using engine vacuum. The vent hose that goes between bank 2 (drivers side valve cover) and the air filter housing is not under much vacuum and should not normally have signs of oil.

I know this may sound lame but make sure you are checking the oil level when parked on a level surface. I like to check the level with the engine warmed up and after lettinng it sit for ~5 minutes to let the oil in teh heads dripo back down into the pan.

I also would not worry about a 10 year old pentastar exploding tomorrow. It is a well designed and built engine. I had mine apart at 90k miles for head gaskets. The intrenals looked like NEW. The original crosshatch hone marks were still very visible and there was no wear ridge at the top of the cylinder walls. I pulled the oil pans so I could remove a rod cap and a main bearing cap for inspection. The bearings looked like new and still had the original factory writing on the friction surfaces. I even had a supercharger on my jeep for ~30k miles. If you take care of the engine, I would expect it to last a very long time, unlike the 3.8. I'm hoping to get at least 200k to 300k or more miles out of mine. After seeing the insides with my own eyes, my confidence went way up.

If there's anything to worry about on that engine, you may have ticking due to failed roller rockers. The part has been updated and the part number has superceded many times.I replaced the roller rockerswhen Ihad the heads off even though I wasn't having any ticking. The other issue to look out for on the pentastars older than 2013 is for the valve seats on bank 2 coming loose. You'll get misfire codes for bank 2 cylinders (even numbered and on the driver's side). There's a TSB on this and FCA extended the warranty on just the bank 2 cylinder head for this issue.

Check out this video of what a penatastar looks like on teh inside with over 600k miles.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Though not immune to the issue, the 2012-2013 3.6 was not known for problematic/leaky oil coolers. The oil cooler was slightly redesigned in 2014 and uses a different filter. It was the 2014+ models that were known for having oil leak issues. The aftermarket aluminum oil coolers were originally just for the 2014+ models. Now that you can get a complete housing+cooler assembly you can use them on the 2012+ models.

If the oil cooler o-rings are leaking, oil would pool up under the housing and it would be difficult to see with the cooler still in place. Since you already replaced it (had it off), you would have seen that.

There is no oil pan gasket. It is sealed with Mopar-supplied ThreeBond. Theres an upper (aluminum) and lower (stamped steel) pan. It would be very obvious of there was a leak at the pan. If there was a rear main seal leak, that wold be obvious too. You would see oil dripping out between the transmission bell housing and the rear of the engine. You'd have a drip on the driveway for sure.




First, I would get a more exact measurement (post PCV replacement) for how many miles you are getting for every quart of oil you add. If you're going through 2-1/2 quarts in 549 miles, that is a lot! You would see a fair amount of smoke out the tail pipe or have a significant leak that should be obvious and easy to find, not to mention an oil spot on your driveway. The under carriage would fairly wet with oil too. If youre not seeing a decent amount of smoke and no obvious leaks, then I would suspect bad math.

When you check the intake, you need to check the intake manifold after the throttle body. Thats where the crank case fumes get sucked in from the PCV on the bank 1 valve cover using engine vacuum. The vent hose that goes between bank 2 (drivers side valve cover) and the air filter housing is not under much vacuum and should not normally have signs of oil.

I know this may sound lame but make sure you are checking the oil level when parked on a level surface. I like to check the level with the engine warmed up and after lettinng it sit for ~5 minutes to let the oil in teh heads dripo back down into the pan.

I also would not worry about a 10 year old pentastar exploding tomorrow. It is a well designed and built engine. I had mine apart at 90k miles for head gaskets. The intrenals looked like NEW. The original crosshatch hone marks were still very visible and there was no wear ridge at the top of the cylinder walls. I pulled the oil pans so I could remove a rod cap and a main bearing cap for inspection. The bearings looked like new and still had the original factory writing on the friction surfaces. I even had a supercharger on my jeep for ~30k miles. If you take care of the engine, I would expect it to last a very long time, unlike the 3.8. I'm hoping to get at least 200k to 300k or more miles out of mine. After seeing the insides with my own eyes, my confidence went way up.

If there's anything to worry about on that engine, you may have ticking due to failed roller rockers. The part has been updated and the part number has superceded many times.I replaced the roller rockerswhen Ihad the heads off even though I wasn't having any ticking. The other issue to look out for on the pentastars older than 2013 is for the valve seats on bank 2 coming loose. You'll get misfire codes for bank 2 cylinders (even numbered and on the driver's side). There's a TSB on this and FCA extended the warranty on just the bank 2 cylinder head for this issue.

Check out this video of what a penatastar looks like on teh inside with over 600k miles.

I actually didn't replace the housing myself, I had a mechanic who specialized in Jeeps (and came very highly recommended from my community) do it. So, I have no idea what it looked like in there, and also why I have the sneaking suspicion it's still that housing or the gaskets. And if I have to tear it apart again, I'm putting the Dorman in this time. In 400 miles, I've put a quart in. I know that for a fact. I had to drive from Austell to Tifton to pick up my dad's remaining belongings after he passed last month, and when I got back, the oil had gone from full to just barely showing on the stick (after letting it cool down; it was checked the next day). I do park on a level surface. I've never seen any smoke, no fellow Jeepers have seen any when following me, but my roommate swears up and down when I step on it there's a puff of smoke. I have no idea who to believe, but I'm inclined to believe my fellow Jeepers over him.

I do have some faint ticking. Unfortunately, I found out my rig was made in 2011 and not early 2012, so I'm SOL on the warranty for that (the extended 10 year or 100k miles). I haven't talked to a mech about the cost on fixing that, but I'm worried about it. Right now, it's got 122k on it.

However, your post gives me hope that I can get to 200k at least (barring the ticking issue, I know I need that fixed). This is my DD, I can't afford a car payment, nor do I want to give this rig up.
 
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