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You should be able to do that with a flat screwdriver through the diff cover fill hole.
Can Anyone tell me how to do this through the cover? I tried last night and couldn't do it. Regeared my jkur yesterday, drove it about 40 miles and then thought "I should make sure the lockers still work" locked them both, they locked fine, but the front won't unlock now.
 

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You'll want to have the front axle jacked up so that both tires are off the ground to relieve any undue binding on the locker dogs.

Shine a light in the fill hole and you should be able to see the actuator plate -- it's about .090" thick (or less).

Take a thin, flat screwdriver long enough to reach the plate through the hole and gently pry the plate to the RIGHT (as you are facing the drain hole). You may have to rotate the assembly some so that you can pry evenly around the circumference of the actuator plate. It "should" break free and you "should" be able to return it to the fully released position (all the way to the right). If you can put one tire back on the ground and the other one will spin free, and you have no clicking, scraping, etc. coming from inside the diff housing, you "should" be good to go.

One other thing, did the lights on your dash seem to operate properly throughout your process of locking and unlocking? If not, you may have a bad position sensor (possibly damaged during the reinstall of the locker ass'y). It's a common failure point and will be the first thing a dealer will replace if you take it to them.
 

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You'll want to have the front axle jacked up so that both tires are off the ground to relieve any undue binding on the locker dogs.

Shine a light in the fill hole and you should be able to see the actuator plate -- it's about .090" thick (or less).

Take a thin, flat screwdriver long enough to reach the plate through the hole and gently pry the plate to the RIGHT (as you are facing the drain hole). You may have to rotate the assembly some so that you can pry evenly around the circumference of the actuator plate. It "should" break free and you "should" be able to return it to the fully released position (all the way to the right). If you can put one tire back on the ground and the other one will spin free, and you have no clicking, scraping, etc. coming from inside the diff housing, you "should" be good to go.

One other thing, did the lights on your dash seem to operate properly throughout your process of locking and unlocking? If not, you may have a bad position sensor (possibly damaged during the reinstall of the locker ass'y). It's a common failure point and will be the first thing a dealer will replace if you take it to them.
lights worked properly before and when I locked it this time I used my traildash to do it so the lights dont come on solid when its locked, currently they both flash like they are trying to lock or unlock, actually the front doesn't but that's my fault, I broke the wire on the sensor. I did try jacking it up and that didn't help any, I ended up driving it to work this morning and at some point it unlocked or atleast I hope it unlocked and not broke lol but I drained a little oil out of it at lunch and there wasn't any metal in it so I guess it just finally unlocked. going to drain it in the next couple days and change the oil in them both, when I do that I will lock it and see what happens, if it doesn't work I wll take it to the dealer and see what they say.
 

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I had to have the rear locker replaced in late 2015. Just refused to unlock on its own. I did it once manually through the fill hole, but after that I had to pull the diff cover to get it to unlock. I pulled the locker and disassembled the whole thing, cleaned it out with brake cleaner, reassembled, lubed it up with PB Blaster and bench tested it.

On the bench it worked perfectly, always engaging and disengaging on cue. I also cleaned out the housing with brake cleaner and wiped it down to be sure any remaining gunk was out of it, but when I reinstalled the locker with fresh oil, the very first time I tested it, the problem was back.

Ultimately the dealer replaced it under warranty, but the only thing any of us could figure would be causing the malfunction was the little internal wave spring that pushes the locker dogs apart when the magnetic field collapses in the actuator. Must've gotten too weak to push them apart anymore. Stupid, really, that there are no replacement parts available (or weren't at that time). A spring that would cost a few bucks resulted in a $1200 warranty replacement.

Mine had been giving me warnings for some time, but finally gave out on Fordyce Creek Trail. When I got off trail, it just refused to unlock, which wasn't cool because I wasn't trailering and had to get it home to the East Bay from the Truckee area. It sounds like yours may be giving you the heads-up as well. I would be vary wary about when and where I engaged that locker if I were you.

You may have a 5 year/100k mile drivetrain warranty (in addition to any extended warranties you may have purchased). If you're within that warranty period, I would make it the dealer's problem and be done with it. If not, I would absolutely not take it to the dealer. Take it to a reputable rear end shop and have them put you an ARB in it. It will be cheaper and better than replacing it with OEM. Or if you want to stay with the electric, you could go with the ECTED, but either way, the OEM is too expensive for what it is, and too prone to this exact kind of failure. (IMO)
 

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I had to have the rear locker replaced in late 2015. Just refused to unlock on its own. I did it once manually through the fill hole, but after that I had to pull the diff cover to get it to unlock. I pulled the locker and disassembled the whole thing, cleaned it out with brake cleaner, reassembled, lubed it up with PB Blaster and bench tested it.

On the bench it worked perfectly, always engaging and disengaging on cue. I also cleaned out the housing with brake cleaner and wiped it down to be sure any remaining gunk was out of it, but when I reinstalled the locker with fresh oil, the very first time I tested it, the problem was back.

Ultimately the dealer replaced it under warranty, but the only thing any of us could figure would be causing the malfunction was the little internal wave spring that pushes the locker dogs apart when the magnetic field collapses in the actuator. Must've gotten too weak to push them apart anymore. Stupid, really, that there are no replacement parts available (or weren't at that time). A spring that would cost a few bucks resulted in a $1200 warranty replacement.

Mine had been giving me warnings for some time, but finally gave out on Fordyce Creek Trail. When I got off trail, it just refused to unlock, which wasn't cool because I wasn't trailering and had to get it home to the East Bay from the Truckee area. It sounds like yours may be giving you the heads-up as well. I would be vary wary about when and where I engaged that locker if I were you.

You may have a 5 year/100k mile drivetrain warranty (in addition to any extended warranties you may have purchased). If you're within that warranty period, I would make it the dealer's problem and be done with it. If not, I would absolutely not take it to the dealer. Take it to a reputable rear end shop and have them put you an ARB in it. It will be cheaper and better than replacing it with OEM. Or if you want to stay with the electric, you could go with the ECTED, but either way, the OEM is too expensive for what it is, and too prone to this exact kind of failure. (IMO)

I really think its had something to do with the gear swap we did yesterday, maybe the switch wasn't put back in right and was holding it locked, jeep is under warranty and I may take It to them to see what they say but im not sure what they will do because of the 4.88's
 

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I really think its had something to do with the gear swap we did yesterday, maybe the switch wasn't put back in right and was holding it locked, jeep is under warranty and I may take It to them to see what they say but im not sure what they will do because of the 4.88's
If you or an installer damaged something during the install, then it would not be a legitimate warranty claim, but the 4.88s have no effect on the warranty for the locker. Mine had 5.13s in it when they replaced it and the dealer never batted an eye. To deny a claim, the failure has to be a result of your modification.
 

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I really think its had something to do with the gear swap we did yesterday, maybe the switch wasn't put back in right and was holding it locked, jeep is under warranty and I may take It to them to see what they say but im not sure what they will do because of the 4.88's


It's fairly easy / common to not align the engagement sensor when installing the ring gear. This can bend the sensor shaft. You must pull the plunger past the locker actuator collar when dropping in the carrier.
 

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If you or an installer damaged something during the install, then it would not be a legitimate warranty claim, but the 4.88s have no effect on the warranty for the locker. Mine had 5.13s in it when they replaced it and the dealer never batted an eye. To deny a claim, the failure has to be a result of your modification.
if the sensor is damaged because of it I wouldn't expect them to cover it, what I meant was if its a locker issue.
 

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JK locker is Japanese made, also used in the Nissan pickup. Nissan has some repair parts available.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I just had my front locker replaced on my 09 Rubi with 103k. Got it from Drivetrain America for $780.00 delivered with bearings and cap screws. Had my local shop install it with new ball joints and U-joints. Took about 5 hours labor. Nice to have that working again. Still need to get the bearings off to pull it apart to see how much wear is on the actuator.
 

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Well, I'm back in my diffs for an inspection and fluid change. I figured while I was in there I'd replace the rear actuator. With the repairs I did two years ago it was still hit or miss. The best price I could find on a new actuator was $198.

The thing is I was in for a nice surprise. (this may be old news for the board but it sure was new for me). There is a coating on the new actuators, an industrial coating of a few mils thick. It appears to lubricate the moving part, the ring, of the actuator. The ring wearing and binding up was definitely the problem with mine. Here are a few pics....







At this time I'm thinking that is awesome, I guess time will tell if the coating does its perceived job.
 

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can anyone advise how to replace the actuator? I have the gear, diff and carrier removed including the bearings. it looks like I need a bearing splitter? if you get the bearings off does the actuator slide off or do you use the bearing splitter on that too?
 
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