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Very helpful thread! Had my rear locker refuse to unlock after running Fordyce last week. We ended up draining the gear oil, pulling the diff cover, and manually sliding the ring to disengage it. I think the sticking was the result of dirty gear oil (that's another story), but am not sure. I changed the oil, but have not yet attempted to use the locker again for fear of it getting stuck again (I need to be able to drive it on the road and am not excited about having to go through the headache of that process again). This thread gives me the info I need to tear into the innerds of the locker if need be. Thanks for your work and for posting it up for our benefit.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
We ended up draining the gear oil, pulling the diff cover, and manually sliding the ring to disengage it.
You should be able to do that with a flat screwdriver through the diff cover fill hole.
 

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You should be able to do that with a flat screwdriver through the diff cover fill hole.
Good point. Now that I know what's going on, I probably could. The first go-round was exploratory. Thanks for the advice.
 

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Thanks for this thread. How did I miss it before? :)

Is the e-disco unit the same front and rear? Does anyone have part numbers? Looking to price these puppies out new.

Thanks!
 

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Thanks for this thread. How did I miss it before? :)

Is the e-disco unit the same front and rear? Does anyone have part numbers? Looking to price these puppies out new.

Thanks!
http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=967120&ukey_product=6893283

Item #33. Read the fine print. "CASE KIT. Differential. . "Complete Chassis Parts Module"+"Next Gen. Dana 44 HD Rear Axle"+"3.73 Rear Axle Ratio"+"Tru-Lok Front & Rear Axles". Required: 001"

Mopar PN 68036128AA. $1293.40

Same PN from Quadratec: $1699.99

If it were me and I was set on an e-locker, I'd go Eaton -- ~$850 @ Quadratec. I'm curious though -- from your username, I'm assuming you should already have the factory e-lockers, no?
 

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http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=967120&ukey_product=6893283

Item #33. Read the fine print. "CASE KIT. Differential. . "Complete Chassis Parts Module"+"Next Gen. Dana 44 HD Rear Axle"+"3.73 Rear Axle Ratio"+"Tru-Lok Front & Rear Axles". Required: 001"

Mopar PN 68036128AA. $1293.40

Same PN from Quadratec: $1699.99

If it were me and I was set on an e-locker, I'd go Eaton -- ~$850 @ Quadratec. I'm curious though -- from your username, I'm assuming you should already have the factory e-lockers, no?
thanks. yeah.... already have oem lockers. I'm thinking about a pro-rock housing and want to get the one where I can reuse my internals. I wanted to see what I was up against if I blew a locker down the line. I also have an arb twin under the passenger seat for airing up 37s and soccer balls. I am not necessarily in love with e-lockers but am a nerd and want to keep the dash switches. I suppose rigging in an ARB air locker that fits the oem housing will work on that PR44 as well.

edit: either way, thanks for the info and pics in this thread. Maybe i'll just be on the lookout for a cherry used take out between now and the time I kill mine. :)
 

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ronjenx, I have a question for you, since you disassembled a presumably good locker assembly (with the exception of the obviously sheared magnet wires).

Should the actuator plate be captured in those grooves across the dogs, or should it float? I'm talking about the small grooves transverse to the direction of the actuating motion. There is no view of the interior side of the actuator plate, so I'm not sure what those legs are supposed to look like.

I'm trying to diagnose my rear locker's refusal to unlock. I've been all through it today, with the exception of that connection (because I didn't want to pull and re-press the bearings). I discovered this afternoon that the actuator plate floats on mine. I'm sure the wave spring is supposed to force the two dog plates apart, but for some reason it just isn't cutting it. It's not broken, but I'm sure it could be weakened. I'm thinking that if the actuator plate is not supposed to float, then that may be binding and preventing the dog clutch from releasing.

Running clean fluid through it for a couple hundred miles seemed to have cleaned it out pretty well (from the gunk that was in it on Friday -- again, that's another story, and one I'm not too happy about). Still, I doused it with PB Blaster and got everything moving freely before I reassembled it. But when I tested it, I still have the same issue. Then when I tried to pry the actuator plate back to the right (to release the clutch dogs), the actuator plate moved, but the dogs didn't.

All of this was done with nothing but PB Blaster for lubrication, so I'm hoping when it gets well lubed with gear oil again (tomorrow) it will be free enough to release. I thought it would have been more free to move without the viscosity of the 85-140 slowing things down, but maybe that's necessary to keep things from binding. We'll see. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
ronjenx, I have a question for you, since you disassembled a presumably good locker assembly (with the exception of the obviously sheared magnet wires).

Should the actuator plate be captured in those grooves across the dogs, or should it float? I'm talking about the small grooves transverse to the direction of the actuating motion. There is no view of the interior side of the actuator plate, so I'm not sure what those legs are supposed to look like.

I'm trying to diagnose my rear locker's refusal to unlock. I've been all through it today, with the exception of that connection (because I didn't want to pull and re-press the bearings). I discovered this afternoon that the actuator plate floats on mine. I'm sure the wave spring is supposed to force the two dog plates apart, but for some reason it just isn't cutting it. It's not broken, but I'm sure it could be weakened. I'm thinking that if the actuator plate is not supposed to float, then that may be binding and preventing the dog clutch from releasing.

Running clean fluid through it for a couple hundred miles seemed to have cleaned it out pretty well (from the gunk that was in it on Friday -- again, that's another story, and one I'm not too happy about). Still, I doused it with PB Blaster and got everything moving freely before I reassembled it. But when I tested it, I still have the same issue. Then when I tried to pry the actuator plate back to the right (to release the clutch dogs), the actuator plate moved, but the dogs didn't.

All of this was done with nothing but PB Blaster for lubrication, so I'm hoping when it gets well lubed with gear oil again (tomorrow) it will be free enough to release. I thought it would have been more free to move without the viscosity of the 85-140 slowing things down, but maybe that's necessary to keep things from binding. We'll see. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
The actuator plate has 4 bent tabs that grab the dog clutch legs. See picture #5. You can see the tabs that are bent toward the dog clutch legs. Then see picture # 6. You can see the 4 slots the tabs go into on the dog clutch legs.

The plate can float, but only as much as that half of the dog clutch allows it to. It should not be floating free of those legs.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
For those of you who have worn/broken OEM Rubicon axle locker actuators, new actuators are now available.
I have seen them at the dealer for $62, and from on-line MOPAR parts dealers for less.

Here is a picture of what part of the actuator wears to the point of diminished locking ability. The worn ring is identified in the picture.





Another thing that breaks is the harness, as shown in the picture.






Here is a picture of the new actuator with a not-worn ring.







Here is a picture of the new actuator, and the parts that come with it.



Edit to add (4 March 2016):
The price of the actuator now, just 2 months after it was only $62 at the dealer, is about 5.5 times higher.
 

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That's great info! Unfortunately, my locker failure was not the actuator, but the wave spring inside the locker case itself. Would be great if they'd make those available as well. Really stupid to have to replace a $1200 locker for a $3 spring.
 

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Plunger travel

Does anyone know how far the plunger should travel? I'm experiencing ratcheting problems. The plunger travels to the same level as the inner ring about 0.142". It does show the distinctive wear pattern about 0.014". Would that be enough to let the dog clutch disengage? It seems like it should travel about 0.160" to bottom the dog clutch teeth together. Also if shimming to correct this where is the best position to place the shims?
 

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That's great info! Unfortunately, my locker failure was not the actuator, but the wave spring inside the locker case itself. Would be great if they'd make those available as well. Really stupid to have to replace a $1200 locker for a $3 spring.
Someone does now make a kit for this. I saw it the other day and thought, "hmm, That's neat".
But I can not find it in my history or google.
I thought it was a vendor here somewhere.
 

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I just had rear differential issues so I had the whole rear end apart. I took the time to ensure the locker was fully functional before I re-built the rest of the rear end. This thread helped me so I decided to add some more pics and tech. One stop shopping for this info is needed....

There is correct info in this thread and others but there is also some misinformation as well and hard to spot.

The magnetic actuator consists of 4 parts and has a stroke of ~0.060. The dog gears have a travel of ~0.140 from fully disengaged to fully engaged. So, the theory of dog clutch legs pulling the locker fully engaged seems to have merit but the actuator must be able to force the dog clutch to a certain point in order for the locker to engage. In addition, the actuator ring must fully recede back into the magnetic actuator to allow for disengagement and prevent ring wear.

Here are the four part exploded...




A good shot of the floating ring and the housing it resides in ....



The ring and housing is an extremely precise slip fit. The 21 pounds of force the mag makes is not a lot when talking about what has to move. If anything gets in the fit there is going to be problems. We all know fine metal shavings are made even with the best setup ring and pinion. Guess what... a magnet attracts metal (who would have thunk it!). This is one reason changing the gear lube is critical on these e-lockers.

Below you can see the two ridges on the interior of the ring that ride on the housing. I am sure the ridges are there to reduce the surface area thereby reducing the chance of binding. If the fit is too loose the ring will get cockeyed and bind; if the fit is too tight then of course it will also bind.






In my case, the issue was the locker would not disengaging and later on it would not even engage. The housing where the ring rides was slightly oval-ed, don't know if this was done during the R&P install or when. I had a lot of work sanding the pieces to get the ring to slide with only the magnetic. Of course, for reasons stated before if you take off too much material then you are screwed.

If you have engage or disengage issues just changing the fluid or spraying lubrication on the mechanism is not going to work. A full disassemble and ensuring a perfectly floating ring is the only fix.

As stated prior in other posts and threads. If the ring is worn the lip will need to be removed and possibly shims used. The lip will stop the ring on the carrier housing while the worn part will not fully push on the dog gear plate therefore, not fully engaging the gears and possibly having the ratcheting effect when under load.

Here you can see the wear lip. It was ~0.020, so it reduced the stroke by a full 1/3. I'll be honest and say I have used my locker just a few times so the wear must have been from the ring not fully retracting into (or at least flush with) the actuator housing.



Below is the worn ring retracted. The ring travel from below the housing face is just wasted movement.



In the pic below you can see the full movement of the ring in the actuator. There is a lip protruding past the housing and even more wear below that level. To fix mine I ground off the lip and added 0.060 worth of carrier bearing shims to makeup the difference. The other choice was to buy a new actuator.

 

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I just tore one apart and had 20 pics on a tear down. Lost them all when I ran my phone over in the woods. If I get time this weekend I'll tear apart one of my spares.

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