OBA with Kilby Bracket kit

Don't worry I removed the head before taping. It's 3/8 NPT which worked out perfectly. Not buying some adapter

The setup I plan to do. Not planning any of the optional add ons.

There will be an in cab pressure gauge and a LED to tell me if the clutch is engaged plus the on off switch. Will be all in the drivers windshield pillar.

Any suggestions welcomed!

Random photos of parts
a/c hose replacement from pump to condenser. My factory hose leaked so a replacement was needed any way. It changes the location of a sensor and re routes the hose so there is room for the york compressor. I will be installing a new condenser and drier as well. I have had issues with factory trans cooler that is in the lower third of the a/c condensor. It leaked trans fluid. I have since used a aftermarket trans cooler and by passed the factory cooler. I am putting in a condenser for a manual transmission jeep so a/c should more efficient.


Parts collected. I just need hose and other brass fittings to make this work.


Free tank. Will modify so it can mount to the Kilby under body mounting plate.


Compressor mock up with filter and clutch sitting on mounting plate.


Manifold mock up. Might go with a shorter smaller manifold. Has a pressure release valve, a pressure switch, and a manual pressure release valve that I may or may not add. I may put a gauge here and a quick connect possibly. I may put ball valves in so I can restrict flow to the tank or front and rear quick connects so if there is a leak I can still use the system. If I don't need to do a trail repair I don't want to. Being able to connect three air hoses might make it possible to airing other people faster too ��

Seeing how things may fit.


I may run the hose to the fluid catch this way, or just go straight over the top of the engine.

Played with fittings do be sure things will work for my space. I found d I used the fittings in a different configuration. Happy with the setup. Just need a couple of fittings due to setup changes. 

The discharge hose I hope will survive. I have lots of extra hose if it does not. Can change over to copper later if I need to. The hose placement at the discharge side is curved up to try and keep oil in the pump.








Just need to prep the jeep now for install.

Sorry for being slow.
It's in. It works 36x 13.5" tire from 10lbs to 32lbs psi in 1:40.
I can get impact wrench to work for short bursts. Will be better with an air tank.
Only other things to do is to hook up air gauge inside the jeep and quick disconnects front and rear.

BeerMonkeY said:

im late to the party but id leave out the light so you know when its on, trust me youll know when its on. i ran one in my bagged suburban and the output gets hot, i had 2 tanks totaling 50 gallons. the hose may melt under alot of use. did you add a coalescing filter for the oil? also i dont remember where i got it but someone makes a nice little dip stick to check the oil in compressor.

Click to expand...

Dip stick- definitely going to make one. just need a metal coat hanger. So far I have just air up two tires and I don't have much oil.

The discharge hose - an experiment. I have been told over and over. So far the copper at the discharge was 120f. The hose was only 100f. The hose is good for 160f I believe. It radiates heat well. Good for 200psi. i can change over to copper no problem later. The hose is interesting. Plastic medical grade, with a metal core. It is bendable and mouldable yet remains rigid.

Light to indicate pump is on - In the jeep I don't hear it. It is quiet while driving I usually have the radio up as well.. I want to start it prior to being at the end of the trail. So I want to know for sure incase there is a problem like it is staying on. A lot of people have it setup this way and it is an idea I have adopted. For me it is useful.

Coalescing filter - Oil separator is there and I plan on running a wet tank. Eliminates need for coalescing filter. Having one is a good ideal, I just chose to run it this way.

Some feel you need a switch with a pressure release valve. With research I don't think that is needed. So far it has been no problem restarting. One way valve is good enough.

Thanks for your thoughts and sharing your experience.

Update

Hooked up pressure gauge in the cab.

Update-

Ok in review I have a 100/70 psi switch. Takes a 1:40 to air up from 11 to 32 psi.
I also found hat while the air gun worked it was slightly low in power. Torquing wheel nuts was a must.

So I have a new switch. 145/110. Night and day difference found.

1 minute to air up
No longer needed to torque wheel nuts. I still do as that is the best practice.

I don't think I need an air tank really but may still put one in.

If your building this system plan for running 145 max pressure.