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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, so I'm setting this thing up and hopefully gonna get it plumbed and wired soon (yeah, I know, I've been sayin' that since Sept).

Anyway, I've got a couple of questions about it.

First, the compression fitting in this pic. Does the air line go OVER or just snug up AGAINST that little ring on the fitting?



Next, take a look at this pic of how I'm planning on plumbing it. I only took a pic of the one side because the two holes on the opposite side will be where the air goes in from each compressor.

So, as you look at the pic, the left is the emergency release, the top middle is going to my ARB solenoids in the engine compartment, the bottom middle is the drain cock, and the funky lookin' contraption on the right is for my air gauge in the sPOD and my front and rear air outlets. I figured I'd run the outlets off the outputs pointing front and rear and the 3rd outlet there will be for the gauge.



Does anyone forsee any problems with that setup?
 

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Looks ok to me. Is there any other pieces for the fitting in the first pic? Is it a fitting for hard (plastic) line like on semi trucks or is it for rubber line?

Depending on what you have the pressure shut off set at on your compressors and or what type of compressors you're running, you might want to regulate the air to the lockers.

Something else to think about on the brass fittings, be careful how tight you get them...I've had 3 split on me (all on female side of fittings) probably from the vibration off road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
USMC, supposed to go over it? Do I need to heat it slightly or something 'cause that sucker is TIGHT... (that's what she said)...

TG, yeah, there is another piece. That's just the inside pc. There's a nut that screws down over the line once it's on.
 

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Are you running hard plastic or rubber line? I didnt like the compression fittings so i went with rubber lines and the barb fittings with hose clamps. Running both of your out lines off one tank outlet might be a problem if you ever use both lines at the same time. And last i would deffinately use a regulator for the lockers even if the pressure off the tank is the same, it will protect against any spikes in pressure.

PS since the gathering at brians place i got mine finished up and havent had any issues with it since, im going to 150 psi with no problems with the barb fittings.
 

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Just curious about how you are mounting your tank. Will it be mounted as seen in the picture or at a different angle? Just curious because if at all possible, the drain cock should be on the down side at the lowest point of the tank so that if there is any water condensation, it can drain. I also prefer the emergency release at the top of the tank but taht isn't such a big deal unless you are in a cold climate and then the only thing is that you wouldn't want it at the bottom where condensation can collect and freeze, making it inoperable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tank will be mounted in the position as shown in a RROR skid.

I will be running the regulator for the lockers. It's already mocked up.

One other thing, will it matter if the pressure switch is right beside the tank or if it's under the hood closer to the relays, etc. that it'll be wired to?
 

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Tank will be mounted in the position as shown in a RROR skid.

I will be running the regulator for the lockers. It's already mocked up.

One other thing, will it matter if the pressure switch is right beside the tank or if it's under the hood closer to the relays, etc. that it'll be wired to?
Run the regulator as close to your locker solenoids as possible. This will allow you to have the most possible storage air at a higher psi.

I'd run the pressure shutoff switch at the tank. Reason being if you cycle the lockers an the pressure switch is next to the solenoid the pressure will drop momentarily and your compressors will cycle more frequently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Topgun, are you running the River Raider evap/air tank skid?

So, for the pressure switch, I could add another t-fitting like on the right side and run the pressure switch out the T before the air goes to the lockers, right?
 

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Topgun, are you running the River Raider evap/air tank skid?

So, for the pressure switch, I could add another t-fitting like on the right side and run the pressure switch out the T before the air goes to the lockers, right?
I actually don't have the skid installed yet but I've had the tank in the back of my Jeep for about a year and half lol. The front of my rear D60 is longer and hits the skid so i have to modify it to make it work. Just haven't gotten around to it yet.

You would be better if you could put the pressure switch in a different port, possibly like the one the pressure relief valve is in, that way you still don't have the fluctuations in pressure as bad. If it won't fit there then you should be ok with it in the location you were talking about and it may not cause the compressors to cycle anymore than normal. But you see what I'm talking about how the pressure will fluctuate in the line supplying the solenoids right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah, I was just hoping to have all the wiring up under the hood so as not to have to run alot of long wires. Anyway, I guess it'll have to be done.

As far as putting it in the port with the pressure relief valve, I guess it won't matter, right, 'cause that PRV is like a last resort type of thing, right. It's not something that's gonna be used alot. Also, I'm assuming it won't hurt to have the pressure switch in a "wet" location, right? Just use some DE grease on the connections and then heat shrink them?

Thanks for the pointers. I wanna make sure I do this thing right the first time. I'll have some wiring questions, I'm sure, but I'm not that far along with it yet.

Was hoping to do it tomorrow, but it's a bit chilly for that here. It'll likely have to wait another week, but that's fine 'cause I'll have time to get my gameplan together.
 

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Yeah, I was just hoping to have all the wiring up under the hood so as not to have to run alot of long wires. Anyway, I guess it'll have to be done.

As far as putting it in the port with the pressure relief valve, I guess it won't matter, right, 'cause that PRV is like a last resort type of thing, right. It's not something that's gonna be used alot. Also, I'm assuming it won't hurt to have the pressure switch in a "wet" location, right? Just use some DE grease on the connections and then heat shrink them?

Thanks for the pointers. I wanna make sure I do this thing right the first time. I'll have some wiring questions, I'm sure, but I'm not that far along with it yet.

Was hoping to do it tomorrow, but it's a bit chilly for that here. It'll likely have to wait another week, but that's fine 'cause I'll have time to get my gameplan together.
You made a good point about keeping the wiring under the hood. I hadn't really thought about that. Something you might consider trying, is running larger line to the air manifold where your solenoids come in. The larger line will increase air flow and decrease the amount of pressure drop you will see due to the solenoids. The pressure switch should be a sealed unit so as long as you heat shrink the connectors I think you'll be alright. The beautiful thing about running air line is its not that hard to change. So try it with the pressure switch under the good if it's easier then if it makes the compressors cycle when you actuate the lockers, either try running a larger supply line to the air manifold or move the pressure switch.
 

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USMC, supposed to go over it? Do I need to heat it slightly or something 'cause that sucker is TIGHT... (that's what she said)...

TG, yeah, there is another piece. That's just the inside pc. There's a nut that screws down over the line once it's on.
Spit on it (thats what she did). Yeah it is going to be tight since when you put the nut on it squeezes it against that ring for a seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
How about this?

Left side is the line to the lockers, middle top is the PRV and the pressure switch, middle bottom is still the drain cock (lowest point), and the right side is now JUST the air lines to my front and rear fill points.

 

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If your going with the RROR skid the T for the fill ports might give ya a clearance issue against the skid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Spit on it (thats what she did). Yeah it is going to be tight since when you put the nut on it squeezes it against that ring for a seal.
Yeah, I don't think spit is gonna do the trick, but I'll try it. I might have to break out the KY or something. Heck, this thing is tight after I snug it up against that nipple and then put the compression nut on it. I'll see if I can get it over the nipple, though.
 
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