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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I picked up an A-pillar 4 switch doodad. The switches I'm getting (currently from otrattw) have a backlit function as well as illumination when activated.

Where's a good point to tie into the existing electrical system so that when my dash/etc lights are on (as in DRL/headlights on) the switches are backlit as well?

Next:

I'm planning on a common hot for power, common vehicle switched (Dash lights) hot for backlighting, common ground for backlight + activated lighting, and individual outputs to relays for associated accessories.

Going off amperage numbers, I should be fine with all 18g to the switch pod and 10g going to accessories off the relay panel I'll be running that will be colocated with a 6 position fuse block.

Anything anyone see wrong with doing things that way?
 

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I pulled my switch backlight wire off of the running light circuit. It's in the small harness running along the drivers door jamb. The only downside to this is it does not dim, but it really isn't an issue for me, and was easier to access and tap than a circuit that did dim.

I pulled the switched power to activate the relays from a circuit in the steering column. I had found a wiring diagram on some forum or another. You can also get switched power from the cigarette lighter, but on the '13s like mine it was a pain to get to.

small gauge is fine for the relay activation circuits and switch lighting, I don't remember what I used, maybe 16ga. 10ga on the toys hooked to the relays is beef, perfect for lights, maybe overkill for an electric compressor, but hey, bigger is better.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I figured I would just pick up a spool of 10g marine duplex (dual lead with sleeving) and be golden for running basically anything I wanted to, within reason. It'd also make it simpler for wiring, especially in concert with a label maker for remembering whos what and where the hell does this go, etc.

Dimming isn't an issue since they're LED and LED's don't really do dimming too hot. Since it's just text being illuminated with red light, I'm not overly concerned... the brightness actually looks to be just right, but I'll test by powering everything up ad-hoc prior to install to make sure it's not going to drive me nuts.

Not *AS* concerned about switched power, since everything I will have switch activated, I want to be able to turn off/on regardless of the rig being running or not. All aux lighting I'm putting on this rig is LED and I'm shooting for a max draw by the lighting of 50 amps... but that's rear + sides + front-FLeft-FRight all being on at once, which wouldn't be something that I would usually end up having to do... I want 360 light if I need it, but more than anything it'd end up being "scene lighting" to whatever side is necessary, for on-trail assistance or simply seeing what's what.

I'm still tempted to get a sPOD, but I think I'll hold off since I can do this relatively cheaply, where an sPOD is on the order of a solid chunk of an underbody skid package, lift kit, or anything else. Figure I can just do left/right/all for floods and get a 3 position switch for a locker override (off, rear, both) then anything extra I decide that needs to be switched, I can sPOD it up if it comes to that.
 
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