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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
well everything is set up, all parts are ordered/already in, garage scheduled...

jumping ahead with the phase one rubi 2dr build...

here's the breakdown...

front axle:
-sleeves and gussets
-jks front lower track arm brace
-poly performance upper trackarm brace
-cromo axles
-control arm skids
-poly performance steering dampner
-bilsten 510 shocks (2" more travel)
-jks upper/lower control arms
-poly performance ball joints
-poly performance track bar
-currie currectlync heavy duty tie rod and drag link
-arb hd diff cover
-terraflex 1.5 spring leveling kit

rear axle:
-rear arb hd diff cover
-lower jks track arm brace
-spring retainers
-upper rear poly performance track arm brace
-jks upper/lower control arms
-bilsten 510 shocks
-control arm skids
-terraflex 1.5 spring leveling kit
-poly performance track bar

any suggestions or critiques most welcome...
 

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that's a very good plan!exept'the 1.5in leveling kit.
I'm running teraflex 2.5in coils(fr and rr)specific for the 2dr,and it gave me 2.5
of actual lift and the ride is way better than stock,with my OME shocks the ride is little softer than what you gonna get with bilsteins,
one more thing,the new tera springs are wound better that in the past there is no more bowing like they used to,and altough the ride is soft and (for me a dream)there is no sagging.
my JK is a 2dr rubicon,with smitty front stinger,ARB rear bumper,KC rock rails,
home made 1/4in diamond plate skids,PSC evap skid,banks exhaust,fr and rr
JKS adju. track bars,JKS adju.control arms(all 8),ARB diff covers(love them)
fr and rr PP trac bar frame end brace.
now you should have an idea;
if you have any questions let me know!
 

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I'm kinda not getting why you're adding control arms & track bars if you only plan to add a 1.5" leveling kit. The factory control arms & bars would be fine, in fact probably better than the JKS in that mild an application.
 

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what tires/wheels combo are you going to run with this phase of the build?

for the front, maybe consider keeping the factory ball joints and wear them out before replacing and grab RCV shafts instead of chromoly with the difference.
 

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Jesus with that list I was expecting to see 37's and a 3.5" lift or something. Are you planning on lifting in the future and saving money now?
 

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shit my 3.5x factor and 37 list wasnt that long and it included gears sleeves and c gussets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the plan for later is flat fenders and 35's (low center of gravity). the end goal is to do a diesel swap.

the jks trailing arms also provide extra rotation and hopefully increased articulation. i don't run heavy bumpers or a hard top so the true lift should be around 2" with extra travel and a little bit of extra droop.
 

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the plan for later is flat fenders and 35's (low center of gravity). the end goal is to do a diesel swap.

the jks trailing arms also provide extra rotation and hopefully increased articulation. i don't run heavy bumpers or a hard top so the true lift should be around 2" with extra travel and a little bit of extra droop.
Diesel as in the Jeep diesel, or diesel as in a 4bt? If 4bt, plan on more lift- the 4bt is very tall and VERY heavy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
as diesel engines become more popular in north america, hopefully more engines will become available that match the weight of the stock engine. but that being said, to swap in a heavier rated spring set is not a big deal or to much cost.
 

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This is an interesting build plan. I'm going to watch this one as I'm eager to see it setup once you're finished installing everything.

I'm on 2.5" of lift with a very very light two door and I have all kinds of room over my 37s.

I think you guys will be pleasantly surprised at how nice this Jeep is going to look and perform when he's done.

Those JKS control arms allow the arm to rotate on itself which, as he mentioned, will provide further articulation in theory. Whether or not you'll have enough travel to fully extend them is only open to speculation until you take it out and test it.

Cheers to being different! I'm looking forward to your results!

Marcus
 

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Ottoride,

You have a good list. Allow me to make a couple of suggestions.

An outer "shell" like the one from Poly or RSE adds more strength than the sleeves. I did both. Your gussets will add some strength to the C's but strength across the axle housing is important. The "shell" takes more time but you're already doing a lot of work. If doing either sleeves or a "shell" do the shell.

Also, I would consider doing RCV's. The regular chromo's are good but the RCV's are great. Plus, their warranty is top notch. You break it, we buy it.

Regarding the rear axle, the only thing I would add are chromo shafts (eventually). Other than that, it looks pretty solid for your build.

I'm not sure which vendor you're working with but talk to Marcus at RCO. I've bought a lot of things from him and he's always gone the extra mile to make sure things were right.
 

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The list looks great. You’ll love the PP ball joints.

One thought I had. I just took a look at the TF springs you listed. If you are wanting to go LCG I would think your going to setup your rig for lots of droop and only a few inch's of stuff.
Have you thought about going with more of a progressive spring like the Poly Performance or Rock Krawlers setup?
You can run a much longer shock then what you listed and have wayyy more down travel which would work good with the Flat fender LCG setup you want to do.

Just for example I’m running the PP springs with a 29 inch extended shock in the front. I have about 3 1/2inch up up travel and the rest is all droop. Its very stable and flex's very well.
It all depends on what you want to do but with the parts you listed and the arms it seems like you want a lot of flex out of the setup.

Just my thoughts its your rig! :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
internal sleeves from tmr for now... i hope when the coils settle i'll get that extra droop. i don't want to change the driveshafts just yet so i'm keeping travel and droop on the mild side (see how it goes). i thought about rcv's but will try cromo axles. my only concern with rcv's is when i'm up north in timmins and it is -45c out there might be issues with the urethane boot. it may be unfounded concerns, but these cold temps does weird things to plastics. the vehicle is a daily driver also so limited down time is important.
 

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internal sleeves from tmr for now...
Also consider your plans for if/when the stock e-locker takes a dump, and the possibility of an arb upgrade. I am not up to speed on the different inner sleeves, but have read that some have issues with 35sp shafts.
 

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I would look a the PP front lower control arm slider and the rear lower shock mount bracket.


Sent from an asshole with an iPhone
 

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Damn dude that is over $2k in control arms (MSRP). That is more than my entire lift w/ control arms and shocks included cost me!!! No expense spared, I like your style dude...


I have not seen the JKS control arms before. Shit I have not even heard of anyone else who is running them to this point. I am really interested to see how they work out for you. Post up some flex pics when you get it all dialed in.

I did have issue with my JKS front track bar but it was replaced by them at no cost to me and showed up within 3 days. JKS is a stand up company in my book and I doubt you will be disapointed.
 
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