Tag

 

I don't have a Rubicon, but I think a few searches on here may answer your questions (or that is what raised them). I have a mildly modified 2012 JKU Sport and have ran it in water over knee deep (more than a foot) and have not have any issues. I don't take it out and try to break it, but I wheel it. Wheeled in NM, Moab and Texas before coming to Korea and my Jeep held up just fine. I have had the water pump replaced and the roof leaks like crazy, but other than that no issues.

 

On every model specific forum you will find people posting up their problems. Nature of the beast. Your Jeep is stout, enjoy it.

I would skip the body lift, not really necessary.

The JK is a much more complex vehicle than a TJ, everything is controlled by a computer. That said, it works well and shouldn't give you any problems. Your Jeep is also under warranty so even if you do have issues you are covered.

PS your TJ had an evap canister also, its an emissions thing.

 

Your axles are fine for what you describe you will be doing with it.

you can run thru water up to the bottom of the headlights if you like but can hydrolock if you are splashing water over the hood where it will suck in the air intake. More of a problem with the 3.8 motor since the intake is in a different spot and a splash shield was added.

Skip the body lift, they really look like crap on the JK.

35's and 4.10 gears should be a good combo on your 2012

Enjoy

 

You don't have to worry about that evap canister because your jeep has a skid plate on it. It was the earlier jk models that didn't have a skid on the evap canister making it very vulnerable to rocks.

 

Mine had no evap skid. I just put one on about 3 weeks ago. The canister had several licks from wheeling but was not yet seriously damaged.

 

Mine had no evap skid. I just put one on about 3 weeks ago. The canister had several licks from wheeling but was not yet seriously damaged.

 

Thanks for the replies....I really like this jeep, but I am a crappy wrench and computers piss me off issed:

Anyway, was thinking body lift and pucks to keep it simple and reliable, but definitely agree a body lift sucks....also, it's cheap.....prefer a good, solid real 2 inch lift over the stock rubi height, but don't want to replace driveshafts or get vibes, deathwobble, etc....want to keep it simple, and keep the prices cheap enough to keep the wife supportive of upgrades......want enough height not to drag over every rock, but low and stable for daily driving and off-camber fun :bounce:

Any additional input appreciated, whether in regards to parts, brands, etc....

Want:

35's
Reasonable lift, but only high enough to be functional
Winch/recovery gear
Armor/sliders
Bumpers
Replacement fenders for clearance
And as little computer crap as possible....

Will be a long term build, add a bit here and there....

Thanks...

 

i have a 2012 ( same motor as yours ) and im running 2.5 basic spring lift with cut fenders and 37s. i love the low center of gravity and i drive it daily and take it through trails on the weekends. be smart in water and dont splast like others have mentioned and you will be fine. dont mess with a body lift. im running the rubicon express lift ( $800 with shocks ) . Air down a bit and use those lockers and E disco and have a blast man!:gluging:

 

My Jeep is an 07, but I started with 2.5" coil spacers. I agree the body lift is unnecessary. I ran "baby 35s" with the spacers with no problems. Now I do like the RK 2.5" Max Travel better, but on a budget, you do what you have to.

Kevin

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

I bought a 2inch lift for my 2010 sport jk for $120 all it was was 4 poly spacers that go on top of the coil springs real easy just took bout an hour rides smoother than before allows you to use your existing shocks and coils

 

will fit 35s btw maybe even 37s

 

I think a 2.5" lift is what you're looking for. That way you get more ground clearance but not so much that you have to worry about your driveshafts.

You can either go the the coil spacers which are basically hockey pucks that that give you extra clearance but doesn't give you more flex or other fun off-road things. But is definitely the cheapest option. Especially if you can get a set second hand.

Or you can choose the route I went and get a 2.5" coil lift. You'll also need to get longer shocks due to the extra travel you'll get from the springs. A couple of good things to add if you go the route is front lower control arms so you get a flighty feeling while driving. And I also added an adjustable front track bar.

You pair one of these lifts with 35s and you'll find yourself with a rig that can tackle most obstacles. Also if you choose the spring lift get a good brand lift like teraflex, rock krawler, metal cloak, etc... You'll pay more for it but you'll thank yourself in the long run.

 

You pair one of these lifts with 35s and you'll find yourself with a rig that can tackle most obstacles. Also if you choose the spring lift get a good brand lift like teraflex, rock krawler, metal cloak, etc... You'll pay more for it but you'll thank yourself in the long run.

I agree with Akirk18. I put a RK 2.5" Max Travel spring lift and 37's (with cut fenders). It rides better and feels more stable than it did while stock on 32's. Worth the money to do a spring lift. If you cannot afford that in your budget now, just wait a little. No sense paying for a BB, then tossing it for a spring lift.