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Mine runs a lot better now that I've removed the (Edelbrock) TVS1320. You're only going to get the stock tune from whoever supplied the supercharger. And if you're in a state that requires it like California, then youll need the EO number and probably the sticker too. Anyway, They'll need to start with your original stock NA tune and then modify that and send it back to you. Pretty sure all of the supercharger suppliers work that way. You cant just download a tune from someone - they are tied to the PCM.

I'm surprised that Magnusson won't supply you the tune and a sticker for a nominal fee. You would still need athe stock NA tune from your PCM.

What monitors are still active? It might not be the tune.

I've been working with Diabltoona for my tunes since I was NA before the supercharger. I used his tunes when I was supercharged and then had a new one cut after I went back to NA. I am currently running a 91 octane NA tune and its fine. You'll need a Diablosport tuner to work with him. I don't think he uses HPTuners or SCT.

Will at Overkill Motorsports is another option. I think he uses Diablosport and HPTuners.

You failed to mention what year your rig is.
 

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Two comapnies make a TVS1320 supercharger kit for the 3.6 JK. Magnusson was the first and then Edelbrock came oiut with one after that. Very similar kits but I always thought the Edelbrock was better. One reason is that it came with the smaller pulley as standard and you didnt have to pay to upgrade the pulley, belt and tune for a "high altitude" kit which was not smog legal. The Edelbrock kit was smog legal out of the box and had the smallest pulley possible with no upgrades.

Yup. I completely removed the supercharger kit and put it back to stock. I even ran water methanol injection for a while. It runs a lot better on the road and on the trail without the blower. Anyway, I did a fair amount of data logging on the trail and you don't see much boost on the trail and I never expended very much water/methanol either. Most of the ontrail logs showed less than 2-3psi of boost. You need to crank up the RPMs close to redline to see all the available boost. The jeep is also a lot easier to work on without the blower, not to mention that it weighs ~100 pounds less.

If you ever pull the blower, you'll see that the intercooler acts like a large oil catch can and it will build up oil in the manifolds and on the intercooler fins. Theres a lot of surface area there. You could remidy that by adding a catch can to trap the oil before it goes back into the supercharger, intercooler and engine.



Even an offroad tune should not be preventing those monitors from clearing. Either you have genuine problems or you cleared your OBD-II codes recently, which will also reset the monitors. You'll have to drive the hell out of the jeep to clear the monitors. In addition to putting a bunch of miles on it, you will need to have a full tank of gas and then burn it down to below half a tank or so to clear the evap monitor. You'll also need to go through several full warm up and cool down cycles, so it will take a few days in addition to the mileage tank of gas. Not sure what year yours is but it may not have EGR. My 2013 3.6 does not.

Did you have any engine codes becore it was cleared?

I would work with Johan (Diablotoona) or Will at Overkill on a new tune if you don't know who did the current tune. Not sure if the smog station can tell which tune you're running. I would just get a tune that makes it run better. The canned tunes form Magnusson or Edelbrock are just okay. Mine ran and performed a lot better with the Diablotoona tune. We had to go through several iterations of the tune and logging sessions before getting it right. You can do that via email. I had a tune for 100 octane fuel as well, since I have a local source for that.

Not sure what state you are in but even here in California, they do not do a tailpipe sniffer test.They just plug into the OBD-II port and look for cleared monitors and no OBD-II codes. If it's running right then it wont throw a code.
 

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Yeah, do the catch can. I never got around to doing it on mine. Even the tuning guys will tell you that. You'll get a more accurate tune because the crankcase fumes will throw it off.

Yeah, even California hasn't been doing tailpipe tests since cars went to OBD-II. When I used to have a (BAR90) smog license, they were all tailpipe tests. Getting some of those to pass was pain.

A dyno tune will defintly be your best bet. You can come pretty close with tuning-by-email if you install WBO2 (Wide Band O2) and work with a good tuner (person). What you have to do is do a lot of data logging under different driving conditions. Johan has a whole script that he has you run trough and you log the results (idling, city sstop and go, steady highway at different speeds and WOT runs), . There are a number of PIDs that they'll have you log. Thre of the most important PIDs that they have you monitor are the long term and short term knock retard as well as the AFR. You can do all of that with the Trinity (T1000). That's what I have. The Trinity has an aux input (2.5mm stereo headphone jack IIRC) and allows for two auxiliary signal inputs. On mine, I used that for the WB02 for the AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) signal plus I had a good water methanol injeciton system that I could pull a signal from as well. You only need one WBO2 sensor mounted just after the Y-pipe collector. Some people put one on each bank and you could do that. Not sure you'll gain much. My WBO2 system supports two oxygen sensors and will provide two discrete AFR signals but I just used one. Once you do your logging, just connect the Trinity to a PC and download the logs so you can send them to Johan. Your original stock Mopar tune might be (should be?) stored in the trinity as a backup and he should also be able to guide you through pulling it out so you can send it to him as a basis for the new tune. He's probably a better bet than Will since you have a Trinity. He used to work at Diablosport and is the one who wrote the original crawler tune that comes with the Trinity. Ive never worked with Will but know that he's done a lot of Pentastar work.

I don't remember what brand of WBO2 that I have but I can go dig it out later. Its a good one. I don't leave it plugged in full time, only when I'm tuning. You need to have a bung welded to your exhaust for the sensor. I ordered the bung with a plug so I could also remove the sensor and plug it off when I'm not tuning. I don't drive around with the Trinity, though I did for a while when I was running methanol. I was watching the short term and long term knock retard like a hawk because I had the ignition timing cranked way up and didn't want detonation.

You may indeed have a tune issue if multiple tuners are telling you that. The reason I now suspect that as well is becauase you said you have a 2014 and I'm pretty sure that the Jeep Wrangler 3.6 did not get EGR until the Pentastar update that the Wrangler first got with the JL. Without looking at mine, I am pretty sure that you shouldn't be showing an EGR monitor at all - maybe it should be listed as N/A. The older 3.8 JKs had EGR but I thikn that was the only JK. Johan may be able to tell if you have a bunk tune if you send him the tune file.

I still run a custom tune from Johan today. It is a 91 octane tune and works well. I swapped out my lower manifold to the JL manifold and have a K&N intake. I also took the time to index my spark plugs. I also replaced the ignition coils with MSD coils.
 

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