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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll try the search function too, but, to save time is there a switch of choice amongst the JK guys that mounts on the factory switch cluster below the HVAC controls?? I got my Smittybilt brackets and Hella 500FF's installed and wired in completion all the way to the last wire on the relay which is +12v switched through the toggle. I don't want to use the switch that came with the kit because drilling a 5/8" hole in the dash on my one month old vehicle doesn't appeal to me. The sPOD and systems like it aren't an option due to budget and not having a need currently with only one set of lights.

So what's the general consensus? Any help would be appreciated. :beer:
 

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ADDICTION II build begins....
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Daystar makes a 4 rocker switch panel that goes at the bottom of the A/C center console in front of the shifter. You can order them through 4wd.com, 4wheelparts.com or any of the vendors on here! :D
 

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Gunnery Sergeant USMC (ret)
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22,085 Posts
If you are really cheap you can just take off the lower panel and cut and mount your own switches in there. I think lots of people buy the daystar one (self included) becuase it looks nice. Don't lose the clips on the back of the panel though. You will curse yourself everyday for it.
 

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Daystar makes a 4 rocker switch panel that goes at the bottom of the A/C center console in front of the shifter. You can order them through 4wd.com, 4wheelparts.com or any of the vendors on here! :D
I don't think they do on a 2011.
I have seen switch pods on the a-pillar
 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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8,950 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Rugged Ridgey Ridge

I was hoping there would be something that would install into the line of existing switches below the HVAC controls, but upon searching and searching, that appears to be unlikely. I'm looking at the Rugged Ridge A pillar pod now. Seems like a clean, no cutting straight forward way of adding switches and its not super expensive. I looked at the Daystar setup too but it won't work with the 2011 sadly.

Side note - Cannot wait until I get all of the basic goodies on this "redhead" so I can take her out and wheel her instead of wrenching on her. Just a few more things and I'll feel good about taking her out.

Rock rails are next.
Stubby bumper caps ( regain that corner approach that the D.O.T. Rated bumper takes away. )
Possibly a PP spacer lift for now just to get some extra clearance.

Can't wait!:bounce:
 

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I've only seen one person successfully add switches to the factory switch panel. The panel is basically a circuit board all the way across. He put some low-profile switches in front of the circuit board, and still had to extensively modify them to not rub the board.

A popular place for switches is by the driver's dash speaker. It is close to your normal light switch, so is intuitive to turn on lights with your left hand.
:beer:
 

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I've only seen one person successfully add switches to the factory switch panel. The panel is basically a circuit board all the way across. He put some low-profile switches in front of the circuit board, and still had to extensively modify them to not rub the board.

A popular place for switches is by the driver's dash speaker. It is close to your normal light switch, so is intuitive to turn on lights with your left hand.
:beer:
I agree. Too much of a PITA to get switches into the slot where the stockers are in the center.

Plus, if you have a manual transmission, some people mentioned there was an issue with the shifter boot interfering with the operation of the switches.

Mounting above the driverside speaker is both easy & convenient. Not the best pic, but there are holes on either side of the dash that go through the firewall - no drillin needed.

One suggestion - go with switches that don't lite up. They're INCREDIBLY bright in a dark cab.

 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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8,950 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I agree. Too much of a PITA to get switches into the slot where the stockers are in the center.

Plus, if you have a manual transmission, some people mentioned there was an issue with the shifter boot interfering with the operation of the switches.

Mounting above the driverside speaker is both easy & convenient. Not the best pic, but there are holes on either side of the dash that go through the firewall - no drillin needed.

One suggestion - go with switches that don't lite up. They're INCREDIBLY bright in a dark cab.

After much internal debate and the realization that these things were meant to be heavily modified I just did the same as above. Just can't see spending extra money on a pod or some other appearance piece when I could apply those funds to more important add ons like my rock rails. The pod and switches would have been almost half of the set of A.C.E. Rails for my 2 door. I opted for a switch that doesn't light up because I can see how that would be extremely distracting at that level on the dash. Thanks for all the input! Slowly but surely I'm moving forward.

Oh and that little switch cluster under the HVAC controls, I have this to say to it :thefinger: , who designed that thing, took it out to inspect it and see how much of it had PC board behind the covers in the off chance I may be able to squeeze a switch in there. Urrrggg, managed to pry the right end cover off and now it's all loose and messed up. Lame.
 

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Gunnery Sergeant USMC (ret)
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are you talking about the little switch panel or the empty panel below that one that is loose?
 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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8,950 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
are you talking about the little switch panel or the empty panel below that one that is loose?
The actual blanks that aren't being used on the switch cluster from the factory. On the 2011, I think there is like 4 "spares" if you don't have the E-disco and other various options. The one located right below the HVAC controls. That's the one I messed with. :laughing: Live and learn.
 

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Gunnery Sergeant USMC (ret)
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You probably knocked off one of the little clips and that is what causing it to be loose. Check to see if you are missing one of the clips and if you are pm me your address and I will send you one. I have about 6 left.
 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yep, there are two little hoop like clips underneath the blank cover that got stretched out while I was trying to remove it so now it's just all floppy and loose. Way cool of you to offer up one of yours! I only hope I get to offer up my help to y'all...
 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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8,950 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No sir, the blank that got hammered by my carelessness looks like one of the ones pictured on this factory pod.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52446_114.htm

I just CA glued it back in for now, if it loosens up and starts rattling like it was or falls off, I'll replace the whole cluster. It's what I get for being an impatient and indecisive tardbasket. :laughing:

By the way man, love the screen name, makes me snicker every time I see it.
 

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Gunnery Sergeant USMC (ret)
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22,085 Posts
Well won't be able to get that out of my system ever. So here are a few more for you.

U Suckers Missed Christmas
U Signed the Motherfucking Contract
Unlimited Shit and Mass Confusion
University of Science Music and Culture
Uncomplicated Shit Made Complicated
and
U Suck My C***


LOL
 

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This is where I mounted mine, but if you don't wanna cut big holes in plastic, you may not be ready for it yet...:laughing:



-WRM
 
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