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How to fix transfer case linkage

Everyone has their own way, here’s how I did mine. No pictures – believe me, it will be easy to follow along.

1) First, drive home from the place where you had to be towed to on Chrysler’s dime when the thing broke, since your Poly Performance t-case skid made access impossible.

2) Go to the dealership and buy some of the offending bushings, just in case you need them. (you won’t; you’re developing a better solution). Marvel at the 35-cent butter-soft, heat-and-grease susceptible plastic component that disabled your vehicle.:shaking:

3) Go to hardware store – acquire an assortment of steel sleeves, bushings, tubing, washers, and e-clips to craft your solution.

4) Pull Poly t-case skid – you will need arms the length of cro-magnon man to reach a few of the nuts underneath. Remove it and examine the shredded remains of previous bushing that nestled there. Set aside.

5) Realize that you can’t remove the shift pawl from the transfer case, because you’ve got a Rubicon – instead of the 10mm nut that the other models have, you have a little allen or torx head on there. Don’t bother getting your wrenches – it’s so close to the front driveshaft yoke there is no way to get to it off without pulling the drive shaft and yoke. Abandon idea of removing pawl. Understand you therefore can’t use anything you bought at the hardware store.

6) Install new butter-soft, heat-and-grease susceptible failure prone bushing into cable end. Cut bushing end flush with cable eye and slide on shaft. Take a washer and e-clip and get them into position.

7) Call Whiskey-Tango-Foxtrot as the washer and e-clip repeatedly bounce off your safety glasses and roll into oblivion every time you try to get pliers into the tiny, unreachable, convoluted spacers between the exhaust, driveshaft yoke, and cables. Abandon the e-clip idea. :pissed:

8) Get into other car and drive back to hardware store. Buy some hitch pins. Come back and clip hitch pin into recess on end of shaft.

9) Done. Now have fun doing the console side.

10) Realize hours have gone by. Drink beer. Revel in your new deep, complete understanding of exactly why Chrysler quality is still regarded as the poorest in the industry and why we are all funding their bailout with every paycheck.

That’s it! You’ve done good. Now go break it again.
 

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you know, i'm a little disappointed i wont be looking forward to any MF'ing in this ordeal due to smashed and bloody knuckles during the process, you sure you didn't forget to list a step?

now i just have to figure out how the heck to get to the stealership before 5pm during the week....

thanks for the write up, unfortunately looking forward to going through this myself :beer:
 

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yea, i already went through this last summer and you explained it to a "T"... now i have to do it to the console side as it failed me about 3/4 way up a nice steep sandy hill.... i have the 08' X.... any ideas? do i have to take the damn console out? if so then FML!
 

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Great write up.:bounce: Very descriptive.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yea, i already went through this last summer and you explained it to a "T"... now i have to do it to the console side as it failed me about 3/4 way up a nice steep sandy hill.... i have the 08' X.... any ideas? do i have to take the damn console out? if so then FML!
Yep, the console has to come out. It's not that bad at all, though - do a search, someone who was bedlining their interior did a write-up that included the console removal. It only takes a few minutes to pull it. The worst part is actually getting the knob off of your t-case lever (and 6-speed shifter if you have it). When pulling it off, don't be staring down the barrel of it Popeye-style, or you'll give yourself a black eye and probably knock yourself out when it comes loose.

Naturally the console end is much easier to reach than the t-case end. I manged a triple-whammy on it - hitch clip, e-clip (3/16") and twisted some bailing wire over the open end to prevent it from getting any sneaky escape ideas. It's Appalachian Engineering at its finest but I don't think its likely to budge, and is ten-fold better at least than the factory Jeep crap.
 

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Great write up. Is the clip hitch pin also a 3/16" or is that just for the E-clip? Are you calling the clip hitch pin and same type keeper that used to be on trottle linkage on carbs? Straight on one side and S-shaped on the other.
 

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This happened to me on the trail today :flipoff:

Really should listen, er, read better.
 

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How to fix transfer case linkage

Everyone has their own way, here’s how I did mine. No pictures – believe me, it will be easy to follow along.

1) First, drive home from the place where you had to be towed to on Chrysler’s dime when the thing broke, since your Poly Performance t-case skid made access impossible.

2) Go to the dealership and buy some of the offending bushings, just in case you need them. (you won’t; you’re developing a better solution). Marvel at the 35-cent butter-soft, heat-and-grease susceptible plastic component that disabled your vehicle.:shaking:

3) Go to hardware store – acquire an assortment of steel sleeves, bushings, tubing, washers, and e-clips to craft your solution.

4) Pull Poly t-case skid – you will need arms the length of cro-magnon man to reach a few of the nuts underneath. Remove it and examine the shredded remains of previous bushing that nestled there. Set aside.

5) Realize that you can’t remove the shift pawl from the transfer case, because you’ve got a Rubicon – instead of the 10mm nut that the other models have, you have a little allen or torx head on there. Don’t bother getting your wrenches – it’s so close to the front driveshaft yoke there is no way to get to it off without pulling the drive shaft and yoke. Abandon idea of removing pawl. Understand you therefore can’t use anything you bought at the hardware store.

6) Install new butter-soft, heat-and-grease susceptible failure prone bushing into cable end. Cut bushing end flush with cable eye and slide on shaft. Take a washer and e-clip and get them into position.

7) Call Whiskey-Tango-Foxtrot as the washer and e-clip repeatedly bounce off your safety glasses and roll into oblivion every time you try to get pliers into the tiny, unreachable, convoluted spacers between the exhaust, driveshaft yoke, and cables. Abandon the e-clip idea. :pissed:

8) Get into other car and drive back to hardware store. Buy some hitch pins. Come back and clip hitch pin into recess on end of shaft.

9) Done. Now have fun doing the console side.

10) Realize hours have gone by. Drink beer. Revel in your new deep, complete understanding of exactly why Chrysler quality is still regarded as the poorest in the industry and why we are all funding their bailout with every paycheck.

That’s it! You’ve done good. Now go break it again.

I drilled out the nipple on the lever and used a bolt / spacer etc about 3 years ago. Never have broke the console side of that connection. But this next week when I put in my new tuffy console I will go ahead and take care of that end as well.
 

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Too common apparently

Just happen to me for the first time in the Smokeys this weekend. Stuck in 4L going up a muddy hill. Finally got to the top and dray ground. Manually shifted to 2.

Stealer got me today for 109.00 plust tax to replace it. :mad:
 

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^^^^^ Go by the dealer and get a couple of those bushings. They are just a few cents each maybe a dollar. You can install the one at the transfer case with a pair of channel locks (just squeeze it in place). Be aware the same bushing is on the other end of the cable underneath the console. :gluging:
 

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Why carry spares when you can just head off the problem? I fixed mine before it broke 2+ years ago. Haven't needed to worry about it since.


Sent via paper airplane
 

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^^^^^ Some of us are busy and cannot spend hours whiling away tinkering on the heaps. A permanent fix is better, granted, but time may not always allow or the lack of desire could be a factor.

For instance, my linkage came apart on me in the middle of now-where Arizona this winter. Went by the dealer got the cheap parts and threw them in the glove box cheap insurance for the next time. I have not been able to work on my jeep since summer 2011....I can only dream of tinkering as I sit making a living getting shot at....


Taking time to do a permanent fix like you did is good but being able to repair on the trail in a matter of minutes for the price for a dollar is better for some.
 

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I spent 15 mins retrofitting mine with a cotter pin. Beats laying in dirt, burning asphalt and working around hot exhaust. Worth "hours" to me. I understand your situation, however the majority of the group here likely has time to fix the problem.


Sent via paper airplane
 

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At least I was on level ground in dry calm weather when I discovered I could not shift out of 4LO. Someone who had already read this thread had the bushing & installed it for me on the top or lever end.
Also found Advance Adapters has a complete replacement for the linkage, only $185. Wonder how many hours it will take to install?
 

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At least I was on level ground in dry calm weather when I discovered I could not shift out of 4LO. Someone who had already read this thread had the bushing & installed it for me on the top or lever end.
Also found Advance Adapters has a complete replacement for the linkage, only $185. Wonder how many hours it will take to install?
It's a pretty simple swap
 

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I spent 15 mins retrofitting mine with a cotter pin. Beats laying in dirt, burning asphalt and working around hot exhaust. Worth "hours" to me. I understand your situation, however the majority of the group here likely has time to fix the problem.


Sent via paper airplane
Do you have a write up for what you did? Or some details?
Prevention>cure
 

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Do you have a write up for what you did? Or some details?
Prevention>cure
I ground the bushing nipple off the end of the cable and just wrapped a cotter pin around the stud. It was a tight squeeze, but I haven't had to look at it again in over 2 years...so it must be okay.

 
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