JKOwners Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,881 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
posted it on pirate so I may as well put it here :D

Well I shall start with what I am doing with my Jeep JK. Right now I am running a Kenwood DNX7120, its an older model but works great for all my shit. Have aux vid in for a whatever cam, a backup cam, Garmin GPS, DVD, vid out.....you get the idea. I run a couple good chicom cameras, one as a solid mounted backup and one on a magnet base that gets stuck on the oil pan for climbs/shit or diagnostic for figuring vibs/issues/clunking.

This is ran to 2 MTX 904 marine amps plus all assorted requirements.


mounted out of the way and dry


And this is ran to componets front and rear and a couple Punch 10's in sealed fiberglass boxes in the rear.



Works "ok", subs are lacking but everything else is good. But with my new cage the amp location has to go. So while I am at it I may as well make things smaller, better and louder :D

my amps are going smaller..much smaller, but more powerful :evil: I will be running some Audiopipe mini class D amps. Yes they are a sorta unknown brand but people have been beating the snot out of them and they have been tested as what they are RATED!! or pretty fucking close. I will be running a APSM 4080 1200W 4 chan to the componets and a APSM 1500W 2 chan to the subs. And next let me show you the subs.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,881 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
New subs will be 8's


ya thats right, 8's :flipoff2:

Sundown Audio SA-8's to be exact. Monsterous nasty little fuckers with huge throw.


Its like 15lbs of magnet stuck to a 8 inch cone :laughing:


these will be done in sealed boxes. They supposedly do not work "best" in a seled box but we will see. Besides I can always do ported boxes later if these suck. So now let me show you how to make easy, off-road friendly, non-carpender buildable sealed boxes...that are not square :grinpimp:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,881 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
We will be making TUBE boxes.

Main material is 3/4" MDF and Sonotube/concrete tube, both cheap and easily found at Home Depot. For around $20 you can get a 1/3 sheet of MDF, a tube, adhesive and screws.

Find a tube big enough for the sub


Doing a little math after finding the sealed space requirement for your subs you cut your tube to the right length. For me my space was .28 cubic foot, so the 8" tube minus space for the inserted MDF equates to around 11" of tube.


then we cut some insertable plugs. a sealed one for the end and a additional mounting brace for the sub. you want these TIGHT to fit in the tube, I put a slight bevel on the edge so they had to be tapped into place.


Rough up the inside of the tube with some sand paper to break the waxy coating and to give the adhesive some tooth.


Nice bead of adhesive


and tap the end caps and rings in place




Now for the true end caps there is many ways to skin this cat. you can just make end caps the same OD as the tube or whatever. Guys are even making down firing stands for home theater on the front, its all up to you.

For me I made my ends also my mounting stands. Both ends are the same just the front has the mounting hole. The rears are glued and screwed to the back plate (overkill) and the fronts are glues and clamped. You can never have too many clamps :grinpimp:


The reason for the beefy end caps is that is getting the most impact of pressure. The tube should not flex in my setup but in a 12" you may have to make internal braces just to be safe. it would just be another plug but cut all gusset like and shit.

Well these have to dry and today when I get home I will cover and mostly finish them.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,881 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Hit the ends with some duplicolor beliner to give it some texture and durability


And I wrapped them with "rhino skin" or whatever the hell that decking they use on boats. I have had a bunch of strips of it floating around. Its like rubber diamond plate.


This will deaden it some and also give it a better "finished" look. carpet would do the same
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,881 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
today we make some terminal posts and mount the speakers. You can use store purchased speaker terminals but for the most part they suck. I recomend just drilling a hole and silicone the wires in there or make some solid brass ones as they are cheap and easy.

1/4-20 brass screws long enough to go through the wall you want to mount them, nuts and washers


Ya, brass is not as good of a conductor as copper but you will not be running copper bolts..well for long anyway as they gall badly. I make up for it in size as a 1/4-20 bolt is bigger than the 8ga wire I am running.

Drill some holes (ignore the center hole, that is an unfilled mounting hole)


some copper lugs crimped on


and assemble with a good glob of silicon on the bolt shaft to seal the inside and then a glop under the outer washer as well. you dont need air leaks.


and some labels in case I forget what ohm I am setting this at and what one is positive
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,881 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Like I said I am running my subs at 1 ohm each. They are dual 2ohm coils and will be ran at 2ohm at the amp. I am using dual 2 ohm just in case this amp sucks or rocks. if it sucks I know my existing amp will push them at 2 ohm or I can drop the cash and get a .5ohm stable amp and run it at that. if the amp kicks ass I can run it at 2ohm and be happy or try .5ohm and see if the amp will handle that.
It most likely will not :laughing: but I can try.

match your subs to your amp and vice versa and finding how to wire a dual voice coil is easy. its basic ohms law/parallel/series

anyway. wires soldered and sealed for 1ohm


I have to re-seal that edge of the covering..meh :laughing:

and install your subs.


for sealing your subs you can use foam tape, closed cell foam window seal, RTV, silicon or whatever. its personal preference. I use silicone as it does a very good job and is easy to get off should i want to remount the subs. A little bead and then tighten the subs down like you would lug nuts.

now i am just waiting on my other amp
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,881 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
amps came in :evil:
Audiopipe 1200w 4ch, 1500w 2ch, both have been proven to put out near rated. :grinpimp: DVD case for size reference


This should make the little fuckers move :laughing:

Running out of space? Think outside the box :D


Wonder what is going on here? Under seat slide out amp rack.


I will box and seal that area later with powered vents so it is well cooled yet waterproof.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
564 Posts
I don't know a whole lot about kicker subs in general but I can tell you that sundown subs are built for the soul purpose of being abused.

They are not efficient and have huge motors BUT.... They jam like the amish out on rumspringer.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,881 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Run any spl measurements? Curious about those subs. How would you compare them to one 10" Solo X?
No idea, I have never owned a kicker sub of any kind.

A Solo X would walk all over these 8's. And it is a Jeep, I am sure SPL would not be high at all...

-Jason
is a Solo X 10" twice the speaker? because it sure as hell cost twice as much :thefinger:

Ya, a soft top jeep does not do too well for keeping sound in :laughing: All I do know is I am finding sheetmetal harmonics that did not exist with my other 10's :eek: I need to get busy with the spray foam and dynamat. They hit hard.

Also the little 4ch Audiopipe puts out much better than what they replaced. I had to change a lot of audio settings.


And I cleaned the trash ya fuckers :thefinger: install is 95% done, I just have to make the waterproof enclosure.
 

·
Official Monkey Business
Joined
·
12,215 Posts
Dang, you do more cool projects and do the best writeups! Very cool.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top