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Discussion Starter #1
Heard some shit on the way home today.. drove through the noises and checked when I got home. Tore the rear down to find the shaft being held in only by the brakes... ok wtf.... I take the brakes off and the retainer only to find there's nothing left of the bearing, seal, or the bearing retainer thing. The housing is ovaled out where the bearing seats.. anyway to fix something like this or is the housing fucked? I'm going to pick up wontons Thursday but I wasn't looking forward to doing it right away... has anyone seen some shit like this before?



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How many miles is on that setup? Looks like the bearing has been toast for a while, obviously.
 

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Comfortably Numb
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I'm going to pick up wontons Thursday but I wasn't looking forward to doing it right away... has anyone seen some shit like this before?
Shit Chuck, nothing a grinder can't fix. I was going to pick up some wontons yesterday but changed my mind and egg rolls.

Sorry to hear this Chuck. Good your tons are not that far away. :x
 

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geezus ! That had to have made some manner of unique noise as the bearing shit the bed and the shaft egged out the housing that much? You are maybe less sensitive to grinding noises tho , Chuck :thefinger:

I'd look at rear housing take off s or on eBay maybe unless you're in the po$ition to upgrade to the full float TF conversion ( but it's eight lug , as you know ) . Sorry, dude . That's a fucker of a surprise ...

<edit2: I searched and there are rear d44 take offs t be found . I wondered if Currie maybe had some kit or upgrade -and they have all manner of the bearing and plates - but I don't know about building the damaged tube ends back up enough >
 

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Random Dude
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... has anyone seen some shit like this before?
Hey Chuck,
Any chance your diff. vent was plugged? :dunno:

I know you've hammered your Jeep into deep mud and/or water :nono-1: :thefinger:
If the diff. housing is hot (from you hauling ass to the water hole/mud bog), it sucks in a lot of air when it hits water and cools off.
If the vent was blocked, it sucked water/mud in through bearings (doesn't even need to be enough to foul the diff. lube noticeably).

Teraflex full float conversation. Jam
It in there weld it up done lol
I hope you were kidding, because 1800 bucks is an expensive fookin' Band Aid before implementing this:
I'm going to pick up wontons Thursday but I wasn't looking forward to doing it right away
Don't get me wrong, Ken - I dig the Teraflex full float setup, but I don't dig it 3500 bucks' worth.
For that kind of bread, you're already theees →← close to
 

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Hey Chuck,

Any chance your diff. vent was plugged? :dunno:



I know you've hammered your Jeep into deep mud and/or water :nono-1: :thefinger:

If the diff. housing is hot (from you hauling ass to the water hole/mud bog), it sucks in a lot of air when it hits water and cools off.

If the vent was blocked, it sucked water/mud in through bearings (doesn't even need to be enough to foul the diff. lube noticeably).





I hope you were kidding, because 1800 bucks is an expensive fookin' Band Aid before implementing this:



Don't get me wrong, Ken - I dig the Teraflex full float setup, but I don't dig it 3500 bucks' worth.

For that kind of bread, you're already theees →← close to



Not really a bandaid but yes kidding :)


2 door Rubicon, 3.5" RockKrawler x-factor, 37x12.5x17 MTR's, Steer Smarts Yeti steering, Savvy aluminum half doors.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Do you still give the same advice you have given in the past about running 37's on stock axles?


I've never advised running 37s on stock diffs. I knew there would be problems and anticipated them. They lasted me through the wheeling season so I have nothing to complain about really. They have cost me a lot of time, but not so much financially as everything was continually warrantied.
I will say that I am a bit disappointed the rear went this way, but I wouldn't exactly blame this on "running 37s".

All that being said: yes it was making some crazy noises on the way home. I noticed yesterday morning the seal was bad as the wheel well was covered in gear oil. I figured the noise was just the seal.. it is what it is. I don't think I'll have a problem with the bearing... I think the problem will be getting the axle to seal. I think I'm gonna try to use rtv on the seal where the housing is egged out and let it sit overnight to dry before I drive it.


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Discussion Starter #11
Hey Chuck,

Any chance your diff. vent was plugged? :dunno:



I know you've hammered your Jeep into deep mud and/or water :nono-1: :thefinger:

If the diff. housing is hot (from you hauling ass to the water hole/mud bog), it sucks in a lot of air when it hits water and cools off.

If the vent was blocked, it sucked water/mud in through bearings (doesn't even need to be enough to foul the diff. lube noticeably).





I hope you were kidding, because 1800 bucks is an expensive fookin' Band Aid before implementing this:



Don't get me wrong, Ken - I dig the Teraflex full float setup, but I don't dig it 3500 bucks' worth.

For that kind of bread, you're already theees →← close to



That is excellent information.. I'll check when I get home. It very well may be. Thanks for the help brother.


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I've never advised running 37s on stock diffs. I knew there would be problems and anticipated them. They lasted me through the wheeling season so I have nothing to complain about really. They have cost me a lot of time, but not so much financially as everything was continually warrantied.
I will say that I am a bit disappointed the rear went this way, but I wouldn't exactly blame this on "running 37s".

All that being said: yes it was making some crazy noises on the way home. I noticed yesterday morning the seal was bad as the wheel well was covered in gear oil. I figured the noise was just the seal.. it is what it is. I don't think I'll have a problem with the bearing... I think the problem will be getting the axle to seal. I think I'm gonna try to use rtv on the seal where the housing is egged out and let it sit overnight to dry before I drive it.


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I'd stare long and hard at that axle end. That is where the bearing race lives, and if it's ovaled you won't be supporting the new race properly. That race will oval quickly and you'll be chewing up that new bearing in no time. The 4 bolts do nothing to support your axle/wheel, they only serve to locate the seal and retain the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'd stare long and hard at that axle end. That is where the bearing race lives, and if it's ovaled you won't be supporting the new race properly. That race will oval quickly and you'll be chewing up that new bearing in no time. The 4 bolts do nothing to support your axle/wheel, they only serve to locate the seal and retain the axle.


When installed the race is a good 3/8" from the edge of the tube. The surface where the race sits was unharmed. I deburred the damaged area and reinstalled a new bearing, used some "1 minute set gasket" around the sewing surface and it's been good so far.


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