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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h477/rdlynch2/IMG_0141.jpg

Here are my alignment specs I received this morning. I have been having some ESP/steering issues as of lately, so I went and had 'er put on the rack to get numbers.


Now I was told that my left/upper ball joint is not shot, but that I should get an offset ball joints to correct my camber. Is this something I should even bother looking into? Are the camber specs off enough to the point of needing a front/upper offset ball joint?

Also, obviously, as you can see my caster is off. Now to adjust this, all I would need are adjustable front lower control arms to add some positive caster? Correct? I believe RK recommends 4.5 degrees.

In case the numbers are not that visible in the pic, they are as follows..

Front end...

Camber: Left Front -0.6
Right Front -0.3

Caster: Left Front +1.9
Right Front + 2.0
Toe: Left front 0.08
Right front 0.11
Total toe 0.20/Steer ahead:-0.01

Rear
Camber: Left Rear -0.5
Right Rear -0.1
Toe Left rear 0.19
Right Rear 0.10
Total Toe: 0.29
Thrust angle: 0.04





I am currently running the RK stock mod kit.

Also, my power steering box has been leaking for a few weeks now. I was told that eventually, even if I monitor the fluid level and add accordingly, I will run into problems and my power steering will fail. Is this the case? Or could I just replace the seals? Are there any aftermarket steering boxes available other than hydraulic assist?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
bump
 

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i only see one castor number but it's definitely low. i had mine set at 4.5* and i know a lot of guys go more.

if you don't have adjustable arms you can either add lower or do something like the AEV brackets. After trying both those options i recommend adding lowers and having the castor dialed in.

steering box isn't too expensive. Rock auto had them for around 100 bucks (give or take 20 bucks). it's a pretty easy swap. the worst part is reaching the lines on a lifted jeep.

if you need an offset balljoint then something is bent.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
i only see one castor number but it's definitely low. i had mine set at 4.5* and i know a lot of guys go more.

if you don't have adjustable arms you can either add lower or do something like the AEV brackets. After trying both those options i recommend adding lowers and having the castor dialed in.

steering box isn't too expensive. Rock auto had them for around 100 bucks (give or take 20 bucks). it's a pretty easy swap. the worst part is reaching the lines on a lifted jeep.

if you need an offset balljoint then something is bent.
I have the caster listed in the bottom both left and right. Camber is also listed. Do you think the camber is off enough for something to be considered bent? And what is the actual name of the steering box? Is is steering pump? What?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A-1 CARDONE Part # 275200 Reman.
Power steering; Sport Utility; 2 door

$166.79
your positive that this is a direct OEM replacement steering box? Apparently the dealer has said to a few people that it will cost 1000 to replace the stock gear box. I would assume that a comparible aftermarket would be at least 1/2 that cost. But, I may be wrong, just want to be sure.
 

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I have the caster listed in the bottom both left and right. Camber is also listed. Do you think the camber is off enough for something to be considered bent? And what is the actual name of the steering box? Is is steering pump? What?
You'll definitely want some lower arms to adjust caster. When you get it closer to 4-4.5 you'll notice your jeep will handle better, and also feel a lot less "flighty" on the road.

From what I've read when the camber is off it means your axle C's are probably bent a bit. I'm assuming you're not sleeved or gusseted?


Sent from my cardboard box using Tapatalk
 

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your positive that this is a direct OEM replacement steering box? Apparently the dealer has said to a few people that it will cost 1000 to replace the stock gear box. I would assume that a comparible aftermarket would be at least 1/2 that cost. But, I may be wrong, just want to be sure.
it's what i used to replace the box on my 2 door... that one is 2 door specific. i don't know what the difference is between the 2 and 4 door boxes but it doesn't matter since you have a 2 door.

punch the part number in at rock auto and it'll come up with the pic.


replacement is straight forward. make sure you fully pull the bolt out of the steering shaft. Just loosening it doesn't allow it to slip off. Also be careful not to spin the wheel when the box is off or you'll kill your clock spring.

4 bolts on the side of the frame and 2 hoses. it was pretty straight forward
 

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The camber is fine, there isn't an aftermarket off-set ball joint that will hold up off road anyway. The difference is negligible.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah I figured that the camber was fine being it is inly off by half a degree. Alright, few more questions im trying to track down my steering woes and just seem to be spinning in circles. I still have a 40-45 mph steering wheel shake. Now, would low caster be a potential source of this or no? Also, not sure if any of you guys have a bilstein stabilzer, but ever since I installed mine my steering has seemed to become super tight. Should this be expected for a while until it breaks in so to speak?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There are a few more things I have to check out as potential sources. One being that I never removed my lug nut retainer clips when I installed my aftermarket wheels, (not sure if that definitively causes steering wobble, but I know they need to go). After that if it does not go away, ill have my balance checked. Again. I have the MTRs, as I am soon beginning to realize that they are a bitch and a half to balance
 

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Again. I have the MTRs, as I am soon beginning to realize that they are a bitch and a half to balance
The sooner you realize the more you modify a vehicle, the more you complain about it...the better. Usually only gets worse the bigger and badder it gets. Squeaks, creaks, bend shit, wobbles, comes with the territory.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The sooner you realize the more you modify a vehicle, the more you complain about it...the better. Usually only gets worse the bigger and badder it gets. Squeaks, creaks, bend shit, wobbles, comes with the territory.

I know I know. Certainly comes with the territory, I knew I would run into some problems from the start, I just didnt realize I would be chasing my tail for weeks on end. At least I was able to figure out my DW pretty quickly (shot drag link end). Gave me a good excuse to upgrade to a RK HD. I just want to at least diagnose this friggin' wobble. There is just so many possible causes, it seems endless really.

Im hoping that its the lug retainer clips, all ill have to do is remove the suckers. pretty inexpensive fix!
 

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Pretty common to find negative camber on a JK. Local dealer claims they're out of spec right off the transporter. Mine has been that way from day one. Sleeves & gussets and it hasn't gotten any worse at least.

The big numbers that jump out at me are, as noted, the caster on both sides. If you don't want to go to all 8 adjustable arms the conventional wisdom has been to install adjustable lowers in front, uppers in the rear, or the el-cheapo route, cam bolts on same. Most of us avoid cam bolts like the plague. Another route is AEV's drop brackets, which AEV claims restores stock front geometery and will correct caster using stock arms. Haven't read anything that says they definitely suck, although they do make your lower arms more vulnerable on the rocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pretty common to find negative camber on a JK. Local dealer claims they're out of spec right off the transporter. Mine has been that way from day one. Sleeves & gussets and it hasn't gotten any worse at least.

The big numbers that jump out at me are, as noted, the caster on both sides. If you don't want to go to all 8 adjustable arms the conventional wisdom has been to install adjustable lowers in front, uppers in the rear, or the el-cheapo route, cam bolts on same. Most of us avoid cam bolts like the plague. Another route is AEV's drop brackets, which AEV claims restores stock front geometery and will correct caster using stock arms. Haven't read anything that says they definitely suck, although they do make your lower arms more vulnerable on the rocks.
yeah I will end up getting adjustable lowers from RK for sure. Something I wanted to get anyways.

Can a low caster cause a steering wheel shimmy? Has anyone every lost there steering wheel shimmy after removing their lug nut retainer clips? Just figured id throw it out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Anything else other than what I stated could be causing the wobble?
 

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check your tires
out of balance, out of round tires or wheels will DEFINITELY make it wobble

try swapping front tire to the back one side at time and see if it changes your wobble.

and dont trust a tire shop to tell you for sure either, I had discount balance my H1 wheels, they said "here ya go, they balanced out just fine- pay up!" and one of them had about 3/8" of hop due to a bent wheel that they apparently didnt notice.

it was like driving a paint shaker at 37MPH, but not every time
it was weird.

but if you're getting a little shimmy at 35-40 tires would be the first place I'd look.
 

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Discussion Starter #19

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Discussion Starter #20
check your tires
out of balance, out of round tires or wheels will DEFINITELY make it wobble

try swapping front tire to the back one side at time and see if it changes your wobble.

and dont trust a tire shop to tell you for sure either, I had discount balance my H1 wheels, they said "here ya go, they balanced out just fine- pay up!" and one of them had about 3/8" of hop due to a bent wheel that they apparently didnt notice.

it was like driving a paint shaker at 37MPH, but not every time
it was weird.

but if you're getting a little shimmy at 35-40 tires would be the first place I'd look.

Yeah thats what im thinking. Im beginning to realize more and more that everyday shops have no clue as to how to balance a tire of 35 inches or larger. Unfortunately, where I live there are no 4x4 shops that I can bring em to get balanced properly. I have to do some research as to who does.
 
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