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Discussion Starter #1
Decided to move my gauges this morning, if you missed the unofficial first part of this, click here, starts at post #7.

I guess I just got tired of where they were, although I liked it at first. Everytime I'd glance in the mirror I'd do a gauge check. With my eye sight not like it used to be, I thought I'd get them closer and in a more instinctive location.

Another thing that bugged me about the first location was the ability to see the gauges with sunglasses on. My windows have 15% tint, so driving into the sun put a glare in the cab that made it difficult to read them.

I mounted them on top of the dash in direct view from the drivers position.
You have to take the dash apart, so here's how to do that.

Start by removing the bottom knee bolster on the drivers side. Pull at it and it will pop free.

Remove the upper portion of the lower dash beneath the steering column(the "U" shaped piece) by either getting your fingers between the steering column at the top side, or by using a screwdriver to pop it out on the outside. Start at the top and work down. The retaining clips are the same as on the centerstack. The bottom is hinged similar to the glovebox.

Once this piece is removed, you will see 2 7mm bolts on either side of the steering column toward the bottom of the dash. These retain the instument surround piece. Remove them.

BTW, tilting the steering wheel up and down helps in accessing the fasteners and removing the pieces throughout this process.

Grasp the surround at the top and give it a tug straight back toward you. It will pop free. Same clips as on the centerstack, located at the top.

I had already figured out where I wanted to mount them, so I held the pod bracket that was going to be the center gauge in place by hand and marked a spot for drilling. The bracket nested in pretty good where I wanted it.

Here's how that turned out.



Here's the back side showing the large washer I used to distribute the load.



Here's a test fit with a single gauge.



After that, I took everything back in the house to fit the other two brackets.
This was kinda a pain, since I only have two hands and needed about five.
The brackets ended up being 1.125 apart, measured from inside to inside.

Since I originally had them mounted overhead, I had plenty of wire so all I had to do was a little re-routing. I popped that little square cover off the forward part of the dash to run the wires through.
The grounds were short though, so I extended them a bit and mounted the actual ground side to the diecast inner dash support. I accessed this by taking off the side of the dash on the drivers side.

Here's the wires with plenty of slack pulled out ready to be plugged in the the gauges.



After that it was a simple task to plug everything back in and put it all back together.

Here's a few shots of how it turned out.







I can see them now, and I think this is a much better spot.
Although it looks like they are really close to the glass, there's plenty of room.
With this arrangement I should be able to add a few more if need be on either side.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Wow you did a lot of work for that! I just went out and got the Scangauge ll
it gives you all the gauges but oil psi.It plugs in to your OBD2 port plus it reads and clears codes too.
Oil pressure is one of, if not THE, most important parameters to monitor. When you knock something really hard underneath on the trail, will the Scangauge tell you that you're loosing oil pressure because of that hole in the pan?;)
Besides, I'd rather glance at the needles instead of having to study the numbers on a little box.
I'm not knocking it, I'm sure it's a great product, just not something I prefer.
I do however like the Aeroforce offering, it does more than the Scangauge and the numbers are bigger.
The scangauge gets it's info from the computer, my gauges get info from unbiased independent sensors.;)

The Scangauge is a cool item, and even better it's plug and play.
 
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Nice job. This will be one of my winter projects.

Did you think about mounting the gauges on the A pillar?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice job. This will be one of my winter projects.

Did you think about mounting the gauges on the A pillar?
Thanks.

I thought about mounting them in all sorts of locations, the A pillar being one of the first.

First and foremost, I don't believe the A pillar could support the gauges without moving around while driving or wheeling. The three gauges I have are pretty heavy, especially with the cups. The pillar is held onto the windshield frame with two cheesy clips and pops off really easy, as in I'm surprised it doesn't fall off on it's own. If the top corner piece didn't overlap it a bit I think it would. Next time you're in your Jeep, grab it and see how much it moves and how flimsy it's mounted.

Second, I couldn't fit all three gauges on it without putting one up on the corner piece and that would have been a real pain to mount. It would have turned the two pieces into one and if that happens you couldn't re install it because of the way the two pieces fasten down.

The first time I took the pillar off I was surprised at how thin the windshield post was and how much "fluff" was built into the plastic cover:shaking:

If anyone ever starts making A pillar pods for us, they'll have a chore, as a more sturdy mounting system will have to be employed. A cover will not do, it would have to be a complete replacement or it will swing in the breeze.
 

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Nice work John :smokin:

I may have missed it, but which oil filter sending block did you use? Looks like a Moroso?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nice work John :smokin:

I may have missed it, but which oil filter sending block did you use? Looks like a Moroso?
Actually, it was a.....ahem......piece made by......ummm...err....(looks shamefully at the floor, avoiding eye contact)....Glowshift.
There, I said it and I'm glad it's out in the open now!!

Found it on ebay, I think it was about 30 bucks.
 

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nice job, i like it.
 

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Actually, it was a.....ahem......piece made by......ummm...err....(looks shamefully at the floor, avoiding eye contact)....Glowshift.
There, I said it and I'm glad it's out in the open now!!
:D :D :D

Well, it looks like a high dollar Moroso piece, which also sounds much better than Glowshift ;)

Do you think you could run a tee piece off the existing hole, then connect the new one to one side and the stock one to the other side?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
:D :D :D

Well, it looks like a high dollar Moroso piece, which also sounds much better than Glowshift ;)

Do you think you could run a tee piece off the existing hole, then connect the new one to one side and the stock one to the other side?
I'd love to do that Phil, but I can't locate the stock sending switch. Somebody sent me a diagram from the service manual once, but I still couldn't find it. Supposedly somewhere around the timing cover IIRC....
 

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Yeah, the service manual doesn't provide a diagram, but I think I see it. According to the wiring diagram it's got three wires; BR/WT, VT/GY, BR/YL. I think your way of doing it is the easiest.

FWIW the pressure spec is:

Minimum Oil Pressure (Warm)
Idle - 0.7 Bar (10 psi)
3800 RPM - 2.5 Bar (36 psi)

The pressure relief valve opens at 5 Bar (72 psi).
 
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